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High Temp Paint didn't Do Crap for My VG Muffler Assy

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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 02:30 AM
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High Temp Paint didn't Do Crap for My VG Muffler Assy

By the way guys, I was inspecting my fully painted exhaust system the other day from back in the summer, from 1 salty winter, and it's already rusting on the flanges and the weld spots. It's not rusting through, but I thought from 3 coats of the high temp paint, it could create a barrier to the corrossion.

As far as I know the Maxima's in Canada had Bosal Exhaust systems as OEM...but what I don't get is how the original lasted nearly 16 yrs.
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993-VG30E-GXE
By the way guys, I was inspecting my fully painted exhaust system the other day from back in the summer, from 1 salty winter, and it's already rusting on the flanges and the weld spots. It's not rusting through, but I thought from 3 coats of the high temp paint, it could create a barrier to the corrossion.

As far as I know the Maxima's in Canada had Bosal Exhaust systems as OEM...but what I don't get is how the original lasted nearly 16 yrs.
in for pics? my engine block is rusting through the paint a little bit... like, the rust is weeping down in some spots. it's got high temp paint on it also, but i guess the rust is a determined **** or something, trying to push through at all costs.
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:28 AM
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rust usually starts on the inside and works it's way out.
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
rust usually starts on the inside and works it's way out.
What he said, if you didnt get all of the rust off before you painted it, it will definitely be paying you another visit.
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:32 AM
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it's going to rust no matter what.
only thing you're doing is slowing it down.
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
it's going to rust no matter what.
only thing you're doing is slowing it down.


Unless you powder coat right from the get-go
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Garf


Unless you powder coat right from the get-go
you would have to powder coat the INSIDE of the pipes. 99% of all rusted exhaust is from inside where the exhaust flows and the water settles.
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
you would have to powder coat the INSIDE of the pipes. 99% of all rusted exhaust is from inside where the exhaust flows and the water settles.
is that even possible? before or after bending the pipes?
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
is that even possible? before or after bending the pipes?
sure it's possible,but not worth it IMO, you wouldn't be able to spray all the way into the pipe, you would probably want to do it after bending the pipes but i don't think it's too realistic of a plan. just go w/ stainless pipes and protective paint on the outside and it'll last as long as you need it to.


Last edited by Garf; Apr 2, 2009 at 03:58 PM.
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
in for pics? my engine block is rusting through the paint a little bit... like, the rust is weeping down in some spots. it's got high temp paint on it also, but i guess the rust is a determined **** or something, trying to push through at all costs.
Pics soon - just waiting for the injector and the rest of the suspension parts. I'm pretty much ready to go for all the repairs...waiting on a few other items - die grinder cut off wheel in case I need to cut off some bolts, wire cup abrasive, mandrel, some odds and ends. I'll take a photo of all the parts before they go in too. Oh shoot - I forgot to order some drill bits...better do that now.
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
you would have to powder coat the INSIDE of the pipes. 99% of all rusted exhaust is from inside where the exhaust flows and the water settles.
just drive WOT so the exhaust gets hot enough so all the water gets burned out from condensation.
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Garf


Unless you powder coat right from the get-go
powder coating can't handle the temps
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
just drive WOT so the exhaust gets hot enough so all the water gets burned out from condensation.
or long enough.
the more miles put on a car per year the longer the ORIGINAL exhaust will last.
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
or long enough.
the more miles put on a car per year the longer the ORIGINAL exhaust will last.
+1 my old ve's(341k miles) exhaust from cat on back was original, and still in nice shape, just a little peeling/rust on the muffler casing...
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:03 PM
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my stock muffler is still in good shape, but my old cat flanges were just disgusting

Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:12 PM
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I sprayed some 1200*F duplicolor on a header to see how long it would last...I thought it would last about 10 minutes and it stayed on the header until I removed it and sent it in to be ceramic coated (roughly 6 months!!!!). So I'll try that on my custom ypipe first just out of curiousity and if it starts peeling I'll ceramic coat it like all the rest of my exhaust headers
Old Apr 2, 2009 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CMax03
I sprayed some 1200*F duplicolor on a header to see how long it would last...I thought it would last about 10 minutes and it stayed on the header until I removed it and sent it in to be ceramic coated (roughly 6 months!!!!). So I'll try that on my custom ypipe first just out of curiousity and if it starts peeling I'll ceramic coat it like all the rest of my exhaust headers
i wonder what goon used on my exhaust manifolds because the block is fine but the exhaust manifolds basically burned the paint off in just a week or two.
Old Apr 4, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
i wonder what goon used on my exhaust manifolds because the block is fine but the exhaust manifolds basically burned the paint off in just a week or two.
header paint. I forget the temp rating, i was weary about it...
Old Apr 5, 2009 | 03:37 PM
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Just got back in from spraying the under-body with car wash soap and rinse, to get all the winter road salt off. I'm amazed at how well the grease stood up to the salt, even though in the fall I used the cheapest grease I could get. I pretty much greased any exposed metal by hand AFTER first spraying with used engine oil. The exhaust flanges are rusty but like you guys said, you can't prevent it if it isn't stainless. The Rustoleum High Temp spray paint stood up, and didn't flake off.

So what I found was, the Quaker State Multi-Purpose Lithium EP (NLGI-LB) didn't stand up as well as the cheap Walmart SuperTech Lithium EP-2 Moly (NLGI-LB). The quaker state stuff washed off. Don't know if it's because of the Moly, but those were the results. Next time I grease i'm going to use the Marine MP grease so I don't need to reapply for sometime.

Photos soon when I complete the injector early this week.

Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; Apr 5, 2009 at 03:41 PM.
Old Apr 5, 2009 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
my stock muffler is still in good shape, but my old cat flanges were just disgusting

I had an entirely new system, warspeed, put on 5 years ago, even the cat. I notice the cat seems to rust(or possibly ugly discolor) 4x faster than the rest of the system
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