In the middle of instrument cluster backlight repair
In the middle of instrument cluster backlight repair
My backlight in my cluster began to flicker for a while before it finally went out.I tried another switch from a junkyard only to yield same result.There was
also a smell before it went out as well so I knew something was wrong.I removed cluster and took it apart only to find a component on the circuit board burned.Can anyone identify the item???.Ive searched online with no luck.Its the component labeled "C218" circled in red.Any help is appreciated.
also a smell before it went out as well so I knew something was wrong.I removed cluster and took it apart only to find a component on the circuit board burned.Can anyone identify the item???.Ive searched online with no luck.Its the component labeled "C218" circled in red.Any help is appreciated.
That's a capacitor that blew up. Unless you can read the value (and judging by the pic, nobody can) or get your hands on an actual component schematic of the cluster PCB, you're **** out of luck with regards to replacing that cap. Besides, caps just don't blow on their own accord...chances are some other component shorted out and caused the cap to go buh-bye.
Best bet is to get a new cluster with similar mileage. If you're super worried about the mileage (and can do some basic soldering / desoldering) you can replace the actual mileage IC (chip) on the cluster PCB so you keep your mileage accurate.
Best bet is to get a new cluster with similar mileage. If you're super worried about the mileage (and can do some basic soldering / desoldering) you can replace the actual mileage IC (chip) on the cluster PCB so you keep your mileage accurate.
That's a capacitor that blew up. Unless you can read the value (and judging by the pic, nobody can) or get your hands on an actual component schematic of the cluster PCB, you're **** out of luck with regards to replacing that cap. Besides, caps just don't blow on their own accord...chances are some other component shorted out and caused the cap to go buh-bye.
Best bet is to get a new cluster with similar mileage. If you're super worried about the mileage (and can do some basic soldering / desoldering) you can replace the actual mileage IC (chip) on the cluster PCB so you keep your mileage accurate.
Best bet is to get a new cluster with similar mileage. If you're super worried about the mileage (and can do some basic soldering / desoldering) you can replace the actual mileage IC (chip) on the cluster PCB so you keep your mileage accurate.
In General, Circuit boards are marked
"C" = Capacitor
"R" = Resistor
"D" = Diode
"ZD" = Zener Diode
"TR" = Transistor
And so on, fairly straight forward in that regard. HOWEVER, the numbers next to them are simply location numbers, they don't represent actual component values.
OP: Responding here instead of in response to your PM. To add to Americaner's suggestion, I'd agree.
You've already taken this apart, ASSUMING that you know how to disassemble and reassemble the cluster correctly, the easiest thing to do is get another cluster and simply swap the mileage chip.
Here's the chip.

Thanks for great pic of the chip.I believe I can tackle this.I also learned
the hard way last night not to drive my vehicle with cluster out.I made it
about 3 miles from home before lights went out and vehicle shut off.
dead battery so I had to go home reassemble the cluster and reinstall just
so I can get back home.
the hard way last night not to drive my vehicle with cluster out.I made it
about 3 miles from home before lights went out and vehicle shut off.

dead battery so I had to go home reassemble the cluster and reinstall just
so I can get back home.
Last edited by memphisballer; Sep 16, 2012 at 05:00 PM.
Yeah I burnt up some completely random Audio lead, and the door chime was 'alarming' random beeps at me for the longest time, lights flickered, madness occured.
At the end I was lucky the only thing that went bad was 3 fuses and I had to re-wire a trigger for the audio unit.
Crazy ish!!! Never drive without the cluster!
At the end I was lucky the only thing that went bad was 3 fuses and I had to re-wire a trigger for the audio unit.
Crazy ish!!! Never drive without the cluster!
This.
In General, Circuit boards are marked
"C" = Capacitor
"R" = Resistor
"D" = Diode
"ZD" = Zener Diode
"TR" = Transistor
And so on, fairly straight forward in that regard. HOWEVER, the numbers next to them are simply location numbers, they don't represent actual component values.
OP: Responding here instead of in response to your PM. To add to Americaner's suggestion, I'd agree.
You've already taken this apart, ASSUMING that you know how to disassemble and reassemble the cluster correctly, the easiest thing to do is get another cluster and simply swap the mileage chip.
Here's the chip.
Attachment 41743
Attachment 41744
In General, Circuit boards are marked
"C" = Capacitor
"R" = Resistor
"D" = Diode
"ZD" = Zener Diode
"TR" = Transistor
And so on, fairly straight forward in that regard. HOWEVER, the numbers next to them are simply location numbers, they don't represent actual component values.
OP: Responding here instead of in response to your PM. To add to Americaner's suggestion, I'd agree.
You've already taken this apart, ASSUMING that you know how to disassemble and reassemble the cluster correctly, the easiest thing to do is get another cluster and simply swap the mileage chip.
Here's the chip.
Attachment 41743
Attachment 41744
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