No spark cylinder #2 and #5
No spark cylinder #2 and #5
Greetings all. I have a 1999 Maxima that will not start. I've read all the stickies and done some searches but haven't found what I'm looking for.
Current ECM codes are for knock sensor and AIT. I don't think those would prevent the car from starting though?
I bought the car with a rough running engine several months ago. I did a compression check back then and all seemed fine with all 6 cylinders at or near 190 psi.
I noticed that pulling the ign coil connectors on #1 and #2 didn't have an effect, so I figured I would swap in new coils and call it a day. I bought the car and tried to drive it home. At idle the car sounded OK except for a small misfire and would rev nicely while standing still. When driving though, the car couldn't get past 2500 rpm without slowly bringing the revs down to almost stalling. Sometimes it did stall. But the car would always crank over and start again. It got to a point where the car wouldnt start and I had to have her towed home.
The car then sat for about two weeks, and did start up again first try. But the fuel cut issue happened again, stalled the car and I haven't been able to start her since.
Things I've tried:
-Recharge battery
-Tried jumpstarting the car
-Checked PCM feedback signals on all 6 coils (all present) when cranking
-Checked power and ground to all 6 coils and also no shorts on the PCM signal lines on all 6 coils.
-Swapped known good coils to #2 and #5 with no effect. (Problem stays with the cylinder)
-Checked Crank POS and REF harnesses and sensors per FSM. Both good.
-Checked CAM sensor while still mounted in timing cover. Checked OK.
I'm in the process of adding more grounds to trans case and starter mounting bolt.
Is there anything that would cause a coil to not fire but the signal and power connections are present and operating correctly?
Current ECM codes are for knock sensor and AIT. I don't think those would prevent the car from starting though?
I bought the car with a rough running engine several months ago. I did a compression check back then and all seemed fine with all 6 cylinders at or near 190 psi.
I noticed that pulling the ign coil connectors on #1 and #2 didn't have an effect, so I figured I would swap in new coils and call it a day. I bought the car and tried to drive it home. At idle the car sounded OK except for a small misfire and would rev nicely while standing still. When driving though, the car couldn't get past 2500 rpm without slowly bringing the revs down to almost stalling. Sometimes it did stall. But the car would always crank over and start again. It got to a point where the car wouldnt start and I had to have her towed home.
The car then sat for about two weeks, and did start up again first try. But the fuel cut issue happened again, stalled the car and I haven't been able to start her since.
Things I've tried:
-Recharge battery
-Tried jumpstarting the car
-Checked PCM feedback signals on all 6 coils (all present) when cranking
-Checked power and ground to all 6 coils and also no shorts on the PCM signal lines on all 6 coils.
-Swapped known good coils to #2 and #5 with no effect. (Problem stays with the cylinder)
-Checked Crank POS and REF harnesses and sensors per FSM. Both good.
-Checked CAM sensor while still mounted in timing cover. Checked OK.
I'm in the process of adding more grounds to trans case and starter mounting bolt.
Is there anything that would cause a coil to not fire but the signal and power connections are present and operating correctly?
Just added a ground direct from Batt. negative terminal to the trans case bolt near the CKPS POS. I now get spark on all 6 cylinders. Will update if she starts.
Also got to get a proper cable. I'm using two 10 ga. romex conductors twisted together - it's all I had on hand to test with.
Also got to get a proper cable. I'm using two 10 ga. romex conductors twisted together - it's all I had on hand to test with.
You need injectors dude
Clean off the plugs real good reinstall them. Then pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over. If it fires stumbles and dies then spray some carb spray in the throttle body if it runs then dies your injectors are shot
Clean off the plugs real good reinstall them. Then pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over. If it fires stumbles and dies then spray some carb spray in the throttle body if it runs then dies your injectors are shot
Last edited by maxed_out_99; Nov 11, 2012 at 02:39 PM.
I was also thinking injectors. Possibly just o-rings even.
Alright, I sprayed starting fluid into a vacuum hose coming off the airbox and got her to fire up. Started instantly, and ran for a couple seconds before dying.
Next was a fuel pressure test at the outlet of the fuel filter. I got no gas leakage when taking the line off and absolutely no pressure when gauge connected and cranking for a few seconds.
Also the fuel pump is making a high-pitched whining noise when the ECM commands it on for the first couple seconds when the key goes to "ON".
For now I'm thinking fuel pump is toast. Seems to have died a slow death.
Next was a fuel pressure test at the outlet of the fuel filter. I got no gas leakage when taking the line off and absolutely no pressure when gauge connected and cranking for a few seconds.
Also the fuel pump is making a high-pitched whining noise when the ECM commands it on for the first couple seconds when the key goes to "ON".
For now I'm thinking fuel pump is toast. Seems to have died a slow death.
As much as I'd like to do the upper intake swap, I kinda don't want to keep the car. My map sensor harness +5v power wire is not working. The wire is brittle as all hell and broke when I just about breathed on it. Who knows what the condition is of all the other wires in that main EGI harness.
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