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squeaky wheel bearing

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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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squeaky wheel bearing

Hey everyone, I have a problem with my Maxima. I've taken it to my friends dad with 20+ years mechanic experience a couple times now and he can't figure it out. Its my front drivers side, and the bearing keeps coming a little loose and squeaks really loud if I am turning the wheel right while driving. Whenever I bring it to him, he does something that gets rid of the squeak and wobble, but it only lasts about 2 weeks before it happens again. Anyone out here have that same problem on theirs? Mine is a96 SE if that matters here, thank you for any advice
Old Jun 8, 2013 | 09:56 AM
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If a bearing is bad and squeaking, the built-in lubrication has disappeared. There is nothing you can do to fix it except replace it.

I don't know what your friend's dad is doing that stops the squeeking. Maybe he is tightening the axle nut to put more pressure on the bearing, but without lubrication, the metal parts of the bearing just wear out further. Eventually the bearing will disintegrate and you will be stranded somewhere.
Old Jun 8, 2013 | 10:11 AM
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We replaced the bearing only in January because it was bad, know of any thing else wrong that could be messing up the bearings? Cause it only happens on the one side...
Old Jun 8, 2013 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by maxman1988
We replaced the bearing only in January because it was bad, know of any thing else wrong that could be messing up the bearings? Cause it only happens on the one side...
You need to replace the hub and bearing, then report back.
Old Jun 9, 2013 | 09:47 AM
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Quick update, I just took the wheel off and all the bearing grease was spun all over the inside part of the wheel, don't know what that means exactly but that's where I'm at...
Old Jun 9, 2013 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by maxman1988
Quick update, I just took the wheel off and all the bearing grease was spun all over the inside part of the wheel, don't know what that means exactly but that's where I'm at...
If your bearing was already bad when you replaced it, it likely damaged your hub as well.
Well known issue.

Replace the hub and bearing.
Old Jun 9, 2013 | 01:51 PM
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Are you sure that the grease is from the wheel bearing? It could be from the CV joint in the axle.
Old Jun 9, 2013 | 08:20 PM
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The bearing was definitely loose, but I've encountered a couple problems, one, I can't fur the life of me get the hub knuckle off from the lower ball joint, and two, I managed to get most of the bearing out, but the outer racer is stuck in the knuckle, and I don't have a socket big enough to beat it out, so I guess those problems go hand in hand, but any ideas? That's all that's holding me back from finishing
Old Jun 9, 2013 | 08:57 PM
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There is a specific tool for removing the balljoint.

You should not be able to remove the bearing by hand or even picking at it.
Do you plan on replacing the hub?
Old Jun 9, 2013 | 09:23 PM
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im not trying to take the ball joint from the control arm, just from the knuckle im lost on that because i thought it would just slip out after taking the nut off like it did with the tie rod, am i mistaken there? but yes, i have a new hub to replace with. if i could just get the knuckle loose from the ball joint bolt i think carquest could probably get the outer racer out and press in the new bearing, im not 100 percent sure though
Old Jun 10, 2013 | 03:33 AM
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Leave the nut on the bolt but loosened.

Then smash the knuckle where the bolt goes in. This will oblongate the hole and the ball joint will pop free.

Just make sure you don't hit the threads on the ball joint.
Old Jun 10, 2013 | 06:26 AM
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The wheel bearing is pressed into the hub, so it better not come out by hand.

my method of removing the ball joint stud is to unscrew the nut until it is flush with the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle.

Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
Old Jun 10, 2013 | 10:03 AM
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Awesome thank you I will try that next time I have time and report back after
Old Jun 10, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
The wheel bearing is pressed into the hub, so it better not come out by hand.

my method of removing the ball joint stud is to unscrew the nut until it is flush with the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle.

Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
The only problem with that is that you sometimes damage the boot.

I swear by the hammer method. It really works - just make sure the nut is on so you don't damage the threads. Penetrating fluid first is good advice.

I've used this technique on the outer tie rods and ball joint on both cars with great success.
Old Jun 11, 2013 | 07:52 PM
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Update, the hammer trick worked like a charm, I just have to get the outer race out now and get the new bearing in and I should be good to go, I will update again after I finish probably tomorrow :-)
Old Jun 14, 2013 | 02:31 PM
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Alright guys,I just got everything put back together and took for a test drive, everything was just right, thank you everyone for your help through this :-)
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