squeaky wheel bearing
squeaky wheel bearing
Hey everyone, I have a problem with my Maxima. I've taken it to my friends dad with 20+ years mechanic experience a couple times now and he can't figure it out. Its my front drivers side, and the bearing keeps coming a little loose and squeaks really loud if I am turning the wheel right while driving. Whenever I bring it to him, he does something that gets rid of the squeak and wobble, but it only lasts about 2 weeks before it happens again. Anyone out here have that same problem on theirs? Mine is a96 SE if that matters here, thank you for any advice
If a bearing is bad and squeaking, the built-in lubrication has disappeared. There is nothing you can do to fix it except replace it.
I don't know what your friend's dad is doing that stops the squeeking. Maybe he is tightening the axle nut to put more pressure on the bearing, but without lubrication, the metal parts of the bearing just wear out further. Eventually the bearing will disintegrate and you will be stranded somewhere.
I don't know what your friend's dad is doing that stops the squeeking. Maybe he is tightening the axle nut to put more pressure on the bearing, but without lubrication, the metal parts of the bearing just wear out further. Eventually the bearing will disintegrate and you will be stranded somewhere.
Well known issue.
Replace the hub and bearing.
The bearing was definitely loose, but I've encountered a couple problems, one, I can't fur the life of me get the hub knuckle off from the lower ball joint, and two, I managed to get most of the bearing out, but the outer racer is stuck in the knuckle, and I don't have a socket big enough to beat it out, so I guess those problems go hand in hand, but any ideas? That's all that's holding me back from finishing
im not trying to take the ball joint from the control arm, just from the knuckle im lost on that because i thought it would just slip out after taking the nut off like it did with the tie rod, am i mistaken there?
but yes, i have a new hub to replace with. if i could just get the knuckle loose from the ball joint bolt i think carquest could probably get the outer racer out and press in the new bearing, im not 100 percent sure though
but yes, i have a new hub to replace with. if i could just get the knuckle loose from the ball joint bolt i think carquest could probably get the outer racer out and press in the new bearing, im not 100 percent sure though
Leave the nut on the bolt but loosened.
Then smash the knuckle where the bolt goes in. This will oblongate the hole and the ball joint will pop free.
Just make sure you don't hit the threads on the ball joint.
Then smash the knuckle where the bolt goes in. This will oblongate the hole and the ball joint will pop free.
Just make sure you don't hit the threads on the ball joint.
The wheel bearing is pressed into the hub, so it better not come out by hand.
my method of removing the ball joint stud is to unscrew the nut until it is flush with the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle.
Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
my method of removing the ball joint stud is to unscrew the nut until it is flush with the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle.
Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
The wheel bearing is pressed into the hub, so it better not come out by hand.
my method of removing the ball joint stud is to unscrew the nut until it is flush with the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle.
Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
my method of removing the ball joint stud is to unscrew the nut until it is flush with the top of the stud. Using a pry bar, position it between the axle and the top of the ball joint nut. Pry down on the ball joint until it breaks free of the steering knuckle.
Depending on how tight or corroded the ball joint shaft is in the steering knuckle, you may have to resort to methods other than prying. Spraying with a penetrating fluid may help. Instead of prying, driving a wedge between the ball joint nut and the axle may work. Once the ball joint shaft is free, completely remove the nut. Pry down on the lower control arm until the ball joint stud comes out of the steering knuckle.
I swear by the hammer method. It really works - just make sure the nut is on so you don't damage the threads. Penetrating fluid first is good advice.
I've used this technique on the outer tie rods and ball joint on both cars with great success.
Update, the hammer trick worked like a charm, I just have to get the outer race out now and get the new bearing in and I should be good to go, I will update again after I finish probably tomorrow :-)
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londonflu
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
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Sep 25, 2015 09:11 AM




