I changed the bushings on the passenger side LCA this wednesday with ES bushings. The old bushing outer sleeve and the Lower ball joint nut were a PITA. FWIW I can't tell a difference, the old bushing was degraded from motor oil leaks, but wasn't completely shot.

Even though the driver side bushing is in better shape, I am thinking about changing that side as well.
The problem I am expecting is torqueing the 27mm nut on the pivot arm as there is no room for a torque wrench and socket (the tranny oil pan seems to be in the way). I want to do it right and torque that nut with the suspension loaded.
Any tips please?

 

What's the torque spec?

 

From memory: 87-108 ftlb I used 100ftlb.

 

A set of these will serve you well ...


Note the ball and socket swivel mechanism.

 

Thanks, I forgot I have a universal ball and socket swivel extension, I will try it for fit.

 

I took the whole thing out when replacing my LCAs and torqued the pin nut out of the car.

 

My universal ball socket swivel does not fit.
Here are some photos.


How high do you think I could lift the engine by disconnecting the tranny mount and jacking up from the bell housing?


@KP11520 Did you use ES bushings or replaced the whole LCA with a pre-made unit?

 

Whoa there, just remove the whole control arm and torque it down off the car... You could raise everything out of the way if that's what you wanna do but I just replaced the whole control arm and torqued it down off the car

 

I used a pair of Moog Problem Solvers. Perfect. Sadly, they discontinued them in the last 18 months or so. I don't have a clue what I'd suggest now.



I know it's a PITA to remove all 6 bolts and disconnect the ball joint and end link, but it's the only way to get it to spec.

 

i'm actually the one that bought the last of the rockauto supply to do my control arms

They discontinued the older CK series problem solvers but the RK series is still available. $56 straight from Moog https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-rk620353?gclid=CjwKCAjwspHaBRBFEiwA0eM3kRk2QApseTB zc8upAdPQcvj_Ok6oobUQXQ5tpbx1bTgFv5ZDPLriEBoC760QA vD_BwE

​​​​​​An impact gun will make easy work of the 6 bolts on the underside of the control arm, keep track which goes where because they are different lengths. I did the one control arm with just my large torque wrench, will probably take some leverage to break them loose. Put a wrench on the back of the swaysbar endlink nut to hold it in place so you can spin the nut off. If the balljoint is stuck in the steering knuckle a pickle fork may help to seperate it or in a severe case you will have to pull the knuckle off the axle and then use a balljoint separator.

 

Unfortunately, IMO, the RK line is compromised with less substantial parts.



What a shame, The CK line is top dog..... errrr WAS!

 

Here's my suggestion ... keeping in mind that you've got 21 ft-lbs of error to play in (see the torque spec. range)

If you don't have one, go buy yourself an appropriately sized box-end wrench.

Pull out your torque wrench and set to 108 ft-lbs.

Torque any bolt on anything you have laying around (perhaps your lug nuts) and get a "feel" for what the application of 108 ft-lbs of torque feels like.

With your box-end wrench, use that force (or close thereto) to tighten the LCA nut and you should be good to go.

I no longer use a torque wrench on my lug nuts. I've done it some many times, I now know what 95 ft-lbs. "feels" like ... see what I'm meaning?

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Not a bad idea and it will save a LOT of work and hopefully be close enough!.

 

I've ended up torqueing the pivot arm off the car. Surprisingly this one (driver side) was easy to pivot after torqueing, I remember having to loosen the nut to move it (under the car though) when installing the passenger side.
Thanks for the replies!