Anybody know anything about doing this swap and what's required.i know about the cam adapters but also don't know where I can get them

 

Nisformance.com. You going to convert the engine to 3.0 timing or use the 2k2 ECU? And are you going to do the grinding to keep the old pulleys or are you going to use the new accessories and pulleys? I recently wired in a 2k2 ECU and utilized the new components

 

I know that swapping yoir vq30 for a vq35 might sound cool, but the G35 nowadays sell for under $5000. Which could save you 15% or more.

 

There is a lot of information in the all motor section. as violator said you need to decide if you are going to change the engine to 3.0 timing or change the car to 3.5 timing.
There are also a few videos I've put on youtube about the swap on 3.0 timing, same username.

 

Definitely not sure.not my first 4th gen.but definitely new to the swap so I'm trying to find my options.cost and easiness wise.though nothing will be easy. Also if the new ecu and timing is more effective or same

 

Definitely needing guidance.i could get a g35.but.i love the ole maxima

 

You either have to do some wiring to run a 3.5 computer (better, functional variable timing and a much more accurate "tune") or machine/find sources for custom parts to "adapt" a 3.5 engine to run on 3.0 equipment (no variable timing, poor tune. Idk why so many people went this route)


I bought my car 3.5 swapped with 3.0 timing and sold the engine for several reasons, mainly that it felt like it was towing another car until 3600rpm. I bought and sold a nistune setup trying to advance the timing and solve part of the problem but you'll still be missing the variable timing only a 3.5 ECU can control.

I ended up doing the "HR" 2009+ Maxima engine swap. 2k14 engine had 15k miles.

I kept the new alternator, compressor, and power steering pump(uses 4th gen style hose just make space for pulley with a hammer), I still need to finish bending/fabricating my AC lines, went out and got a 03 manual trans engine harness and ECU, upper and lower oil pan and disptick, crank sensor, and 6-7connectors off the dash harness to make wiring easy, 02/03 electric gas pedal (direct bolt on), 02/03 power steering pressure sensor, 02/03 NATs antenna/sensor and a blank key to program using Nissan data scan 2.

There's not that many wires for mechanical functionality. You're just hotwiring in power to the ECU and a cpl other things along with wiring in the speedo and tach etc. Theres a "guide" for this wiring and the factory wiring diagrams are available and a huge help. I'm very happy with my swap, picked up a bunch of power and I'll be taking it to Darren the guy who first swapped an "HR" motor in for a dyno tune and pick up a bit more power.

 

I'll agree that a full swap is better with more area under the curve but not with the "poor tune" comment.

Trapping 106 and getting 30 mpg highway with a 5 speed on my 3.0 timed i30 couldn't have had that "poor" of a tune.

There must have been something severely wrong with your 3.0 timed engine.

 

My 3.0 beater was way more fun to drive in the street than my 3.5 hybrid swap. Maybe partially due to shot motor mounts and a **** clutch on the 3.5, but my new swap beats the hell out of both cars. The 3.0 felt like a go cart in comparison to the 3.5


They run lean after around 4k I thought. Idk, you're running a 3.5 engine and intake manifold on a 3.0 computer. Would think it would be a little off from optimal.

 

I went the route of using the 3.5 timing and using standalone management (megasquirt) with an edis ignition conversion. Worked good for me but it required more custom work. You're probably better off using the 3.0 timing components on the 3.5 as it seems like the simplest route and you can keep using your 3.0 computer. Also, u won't have the hassle of adapting all the NATS related garbage to your 4th gen.

 

Theres no doubt that a full ECU swap will outperform a 3.0 timed swap with all else equal. That's been beaten to death and back.

The Gen I 3.5DE definitely doesnt run lean untuned on a 3.0 ECU. Seems like you might have had a really bad tune on there. This setup ran quite well for me, even with an unfavorable tune.
https://maxima.org/forums/dyno-discu...swap-dyno.html

The Gen II 3.5DE on an untuned will run leaner untuned on 3.0 ecu @3bar with the green injectors. My swap is currently hovering around mid to high 13s AFR in these conditions.