I'll start a new thread since I already got so much love on my last one.

In order to remove/replace the Timing Cover / Timing Chain:

Do I have to remove the Upper and Lower Oil Pans ?
Do I have to remove the intake manifold / valve covers / fuel rail ?

The FSM specifies removing these parts - but I don't understand why. I thought I remember CS_AR stating that he could remove the timing cover from the top without doing all this other work...

Please keep your hate mail to a minimum, I've already gotten quite enough of that, Thank You.

Thanks in Advance -

The World's Most Unfortunate Mechanic

 

Upper and lower oil pans, yes. There are timing cover bolts that can only be accessed through the oil pan. Reinstalling the outer timing cover with the upper oil pan already installed will deform and make the upper oil pan seal useless.
Taking the shortcut of leaving the upper oil pan on will only result in more frustration.

Fuel rail, no.
UIM and valve covers, yes. You will need to hold the cams in place when breaking cam bolts loose. And rotate them back into place if/when they move on you.

 

Eventually I'll have to do this and I want to try it with the engine installed in the car using a couple of dummy bolts when going back together....My 2 orings on the inner timing cover are leaking....

 

You can remove the timing cover by only removing the lower oil pan. Getting the timing cover back on requires the upper oil pan to be removed to properly seat the half moon. There are reports of people who did this without removing the upper oil pan. I tried and could not get it to work.

Why are you removing the timing cover and replacing the chain if you have a 97-99 model?

The problem comes with the half moon.



This was a lot of work at the time.

 

If you need to replace the tensioner on a 97-99 model, it can be done by only removing the tensioner cover.

Get the AC line out of the way.



Remove the 10mm bolts that hold the tensioner cover in place.



Remove the tensioner. Make sure you have slack in the chain at the tensioner point by slightly rotating the crank backward to relieve tension. Remove one tensioner bolt while leaving the other loose enough so you can rotate the tensioner to an angle so it can be removed without losing the plunger and spring down into the chain works. I keep my thumb on the plunger to keep it in place as I carefully rotate and pull the tensioner out.



Be sure to get the TSB gasket.



I made a guide pin that allowed me to hang the new tensioner on it to thread the other tensioner bolt. Without the guide pin, it is miserable to get the bolts started.