These bolts were already chewed up being that they JIS and not meant for phillips but currently the top one can be removed but the bottom one is completely stripped




Things I've tried:
- needle nose vice grips
- chisel
- screw removal socket (the walls of the socket are too thick to fit in the ~1mm gap between the top of the screw head and the FPR)
- drill it out, even with larger longer bits I can only get within a 1/2 inch of the head straight on, or hit it at a very bad angle which probably won't be too useful and might damage the bracket it bolts into or snap the bit.

All I can think of now is a) hacksaw the FRP in half and essentially extract it piece by piece until the bolt is more accessible b) remove the throttle body in the hopes it will give me enough room to drill

Anything I'm missing?

 

I haven't removed mine.

So I have a question.

Does it look like there is some kind of air passage and a gasket between the for and the uim?

Or is there no such air passage, and the bolts simply attach the for to the uim?

Call it good if it's the latter.

Should be fixed properly if the former.

Does it idle OK now?

 

I'll take a look tomorrow but it idles with a very slight miss, but when starting the car about 1/5 of the time it starts instantly and 4/5 of the time I have to crank for a couple of seconds or it stumble starts into action. I recall a posting saying someone had the same symptoms and they replaced their FPR which fixed it all. Another option might be to use a chisel to put a groove deep enough for a flat head driver. Or if it accidentally breaks off the bolt head that might be ok too.

 

I should probably just put the airbox back in and not mess with this but I figure there's no better time to have a car out of commission due to working on it than during a global pandemic where I'm working from home

 

As long as there's no fuel leaking, get a dremel wheel in there and make it a flat head.

 

If you can get whatever "This" is ouit of the way, use a welder to Tac an L shaped piece of metal to the screw head.

If you don't have a JIS #2 Philips (or #3), you may have done this to yourself. Japanese use a different Philips system and our USA screwdrivers strip out their heads. JIS doesn't cam out with excessive force. Much better system.

Now you know.

 

Yeah I actually did get some JIS screw bits but unfortunately that one was too far gone.

I'd be scared to weld something to the fuel system

 

Drill it out, replace with hex or allen head. IIRC M5X0.80 threads.

 

I've had a chance to think some more.

The fuel regulator is held in place by two screws. One has,a stripped head. It's also held in place by the fuel lone hoses. It's safe to say that it isn't going anywhere. So live with the loose screw. Call it good.

Now some questions. What's the status of the water pump and the oil change at 50 miles /80km.
I assume that you are driving the car?

So your car has a miss. How did you decide that the fpr needed to be replaced.

fuel pressure leaks on our cars seem to be related to fuel injectors 90 percent of the time. The fpr or fuel pump occasionally.

You might consider the fuel injectors and under intake manifold projects if you are considering preventative maintenance projects. That chore would keep the car reliable for a long time to come.
That stuff needs to be done sooner or later.

I prefer to deal with known issues and inevitable repairs during a nice time of year rather than during a heat wave or the middle of winter.

 

Drain it and make sure to blow the gas out. Let sit over night. The leverage you get when tacking on an appropriate piece of steel makes this a no brainer once you see it done.

Or hacksaw the head off and remove the FPR. Then use vice grips on the stub to back it out. Or weld a rod. See video below

 

GOT IT

What a pain!

1 - Removed throttle body except for the coolant lines since they looked like they hadn't been removed in 25 years and had become one with the throttle body, but that was enough for me to move it out of the way
2 - Drilled out the screw head, allowing me to remove the FPR
3 - I attempted to 'tighten' the remains of the screw by gripping the back end of it so it would twist out the back but it only got a few mm before I noticed there was a tiny bit of a flare on the end probably the first 1/2 mm of the screw head preventing it from tightening any further
4 - Used a mini hacksaw to saw that off
5 - Still couldn't turn it by hand so used a mini wrench to grip the back end and turn it one 8th of a turn about 60 times and it finally came out.



I'm debating cleaning the TB since it's completely black inside but so is the entire intake so I'm not sure if that will have a whole lot of effect.

 

Thanks for all of the tips as I'm sure they will come in handy during some future repair.
I swear 1/2 or more of the time I spend on this car is dealing with corroded bolts..

 

Good call on the injectors, they're next on the list to check out! Thanks for your help again.

 

I assume that the water pump project has been successful. Also that the coolant and oil levels are staying where they should.

I would do an oil change if you haven't done that by now. You might consider installing that oil pressure Guage . Check the hot oil pressure abd compare against specifications. We want to see if the bearings are still good before spending more time money and effort on the car.

Once that's done, you can do the top of engine service.

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Removing the uim is a pita.

so one might as well do as much pm as possible while you are in there anyway.

so that means remove the throttle body and clean it. You can remove the mounting bolts. Leave the hoses where they are. Clean tb with CRC throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush. Tb cleaner is kind to the Teflon surface in the tb

Remove and clean out the iacv. Use carb cleaner.

remove the uim. Don't bother cleaning it inside. It will just get filthy again.

clean out the egr system remove egr. Remove egr door handle tube. Clean both the tube and the egr housing on the engine with carb cleaner and a steel brush. These itemsare a pita to service while the uim is attached.

check or replace the knock sensor. I bought one of those 18 dollar ones. Works fine. This is another item which is a pita to change while the uim is on.
super easy when uim is off.

The injector 's will certainly leak sooner or later due to age. That will make the car difficult to start.
the cat will burn up. The rear injector's are buried under the uim. Service those for sure. The front ones could be done later. Best to do all 6 at once.
The injectors can be rebuilt. The oem ones we have work best. I sent mine to Injector RX in Houston.
they charge 18 usd per injector. This includes O rings. Be sure to oil O rings before you install them.
Might as well replace all fuel hoses at this time.
Fuel filter as well if you have not replaced it yet.

Replace both valve cover gaskets. The rear one can only be done while the uim is off.

The parts and service will cost about 200 usd.

This fluster cluck is considerable. Yet the pay off is a reliable car which won't need the uim removed for another 100 k miles.

The alternative is a less reliable car which will need the uim removed several times.

the stuff I just mentioned and the water pump are the big bad bears we all need to fight sooner or later. Might as well take care of both while you can.

One nice thing is that the car will run as well as it possibly can for years to come. The engine purrs.

 

Do you have a 90 degree drill? Or a dremel with a snake drive and a cut off wheel can make that a common screwdriver type head!

 

Sooo much better



I can't say for sure if the FPR was the cause of my instant start, 2 sec crank start, 2 sec then stumbling then start, etc etc, but I just started the car instantly 5 times in a row, so that seems promising since it's never happened even twice in a row before. Time will tell I guess.

I have no idea why that small vacuum hose fitting is pointing to the right instead of down like the old FPR but I was able to re-route that hose so it's not under much stress to connect at the new angle.

JvG, I haven't changed the oil yet, after replacing the water pump I idled it for 5 mins then went for a 10 min drive and haven't driven it since. Next day or two I'll do the oil change and take it on another drive.

 

So after probably 20 starts and driving around, swapping out the FPR has improved cranking time, usually 1 second or so vs sometimes being a few seconds, but the stumbly starts do happen occasionally still, although less severe. So I think the starting issues were a combination of the FPR and as JvG suggested, leaky injectors.

 

You looked at your coil pack firing consistency yet?

 

I haven't but was just reading another posting about using a timing light to test just that (was it your post ?) which seems like a good idea since that could also explain the slight idle miss.