Ok guys, so I've been having a problem with my 2016 maxima. Started out, it wouldn't start a few times. I started it using my remote, then could get into it and drive. That lasted about 2 days. Then I Googled the symptoms and found it could be the brake light switch above the brake peddle. Bought a new one, replaced it. Car started a few times, then nothing. Sometimes it would go into park, other times it wouldn't. So, then I figured it was a fuse. I opened the fuse box inside the car and looked at the description of which fuse is what. There's a brake light fuse that I cane pull out and its next to an extended storage fuse(?) So, what is my next step? Can I go to O'Reillys and get a fuse? Will they help me put it in. Can it be the extended storage thing? I know nothing about cars, and yes, I'm a female so I don't want to be taken advantage of at a shop if it's something that I can possibly do. Any advice is appreciated.

 

Based on your information I feel this is more than just a fuse or brake light switch problem. From what you say I'm thinking it may have something to do with the Shift Lock Release mechanism. This deals with how the brake pedal fires a circuit which prevents the starter button from starting the engine AND allows you to move the shift lever from Park into Drive, unless the system receives a signal that the brake pedal is not depressed. But you say sometimes you can't get the shift lever INTO Park. That has me stumped. I have a pretty extensive knowledge of auto repair stuff but if I were you I think I would take it to a reputable Nissan Dealer in your area. Get on Facebook and ask. You will probably get some honest responses, some positive and some negative. Late model, highly automated vehicles such as the Maxima are typically not easy to fix when one of the circuits has a problem. My ASE Certified brother will attest to this. You need someone with experience with this car and the technical tools and knowledge to "read its systems". Yes, it may be something simple but no sense in chasing a "what if" when you need reliable transportation. If you go to a dealer, or another authorized non-Nissan mechanic the first thing you will hear is, "This will cost a minimum of $xx.xx, plus additional labor plus parts if we find out what the problem is". This is probably not a scam as the shop will have to hook up a VERY expensive diagnostic tool just to find what system may be at fault, and sometimes the technician may have to spend mucho time on a real stinker problem. And no this is not the kind of tool that Advance Auto Parts uses to scan your system for free. This equipment cost and training to use it effectively can cost beaucoup $$, and of course the customers all pay for a little bit of that $$. My 2 cents. Good luck, and please let us know what a good technician comes up with.

 

Thinking of a fuse ? - Highly unlikely - Fuse is either good or bad (Blown) - Never works sometime. Take car to reputable Nissan Dealer may be your best choice unless you can find a place that can diagnose complex problems.
Good luck !

 

Could also be the brake pedal switch is not adjusted properly to engage. I too hope you have found a good Nissan dealer to help.

 

Thank you guys so much. I will take it to the dealership to have them fix it. I appreciate y’all time.

 

Would you come back after the fix and lets us know what it was? Thanks

 

Give a look at your battery. My OEM one was doing the same thing a bit, even though I kept a close eye on the water level. I replaced it with an AGM sealed battery. Never have to worry about those levels again. But the car would not start sometimes at first attempt, and then eventually needed a jump with my battery pack.

 

Sam,

Thanks for posting this as I do recall my now traded 2016 early build Maxima Platinum had that type of battery issue at about 30,000 miles on the clock and 28 months old. Mine too would not start on the first try either. I had the dealer replace the battery since the old one was also corroding on the terminals too. These cars' original batteries were not up to the task.

 

Not a problem. The OCD part of me has always hated how the OEM batteries leave so much leakage behind on the terminals that I went as far as cleaning them off at every oil change (I do my own). To be honest I paid out for a premium aftermarket battery. But it was the one time that I was glad to do it, to get the crappy OEM leakage-prone battery out of my car.

 

I would try replacing the stop brake lamp relay switch under the hood also. I had all the same issues over three years and never checked the brake switch relay neither did the so called experts at the dealer.

 

before just throwing parts on it,google ''how to check ect'' and check
like the brake light ,just cross out the terminals to bypass it and check it.
check the relay by turning the ignition on and see if you feel it latching,if not use a test light to check for a hot wire and then a latching wire for power.

 

Google provided the same info the dealers provide so with my post I actually tested the switched with a voltmeter which all tested good so I then replaced the brake relay switch which was the culprit that not even the dealer had sense enough to check. Just my 2 cents and I know it won't be every one solution but if you changed the switch above the brake pedal and have the same issues then most likely the relay brake switch is bad.

 

Brake start issue. Replace brake light switch relay