I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima GLE, I’ve been having a problem, so when it’s hot it revs high, and when I’m coming to a stop it feels like it shifts weird . I’ve cleaned the throttle body and the idle air control valve. I have codes for the 02 sensors & cat & also for the swirl controle valve. But ONLY DOES IT ON HOT DAYS. I did have 2 vacuum hoses broke & my swirl control valve was not connected but I fixed all of those problems but it is still acting up. Please give me any ideas what it could be . Thank you!

 

revs high?

 

you have codes... ... that would be a start.

 

Yea it’ll start acting up when I’m coming to a stop, the idle rpms will be high and when it’s acting up and I go put it in park or neutral the rpms will shoot up around 3500-4K

 

Going to replace 02 sensors & see if that helps

 

I had this happen on my '01. I over-tightened the throttle body cable when doing some other work so it would stick open on really hot days. I verified by pushing the throttle body closed while it was happening. Loosened the cable up some and the problem went away completely. Hope this helps.

 

Have you/any members had any luck fixing this issue? This is happening w my 00 max and every now and then it throws a P0505(replaced IACV, after inspected ECU for burned chip).
*** ANY HELP is greatly appreciated ***
scenario #1) The thud/bump downshift starts after the car has warmed up (approx 15mins+) in nyc summer traffic and occurs around 1000 - 1200 rpms while braking to a stop, as if the idle air controller isn't adjusting fast enough while braking.
scenario #2) When it's been driving for more than 30/40mins in nyc summer traffic it randomly may exhibit high revving. It feels like while at the light w your foot on the brake as if someone if pressing the gas, if the car is placed in neutral or park revs start climbing, sometimes really fast, sometimes slower to 2500+, at which point I turn off the car to halt it.
scenario #3) when it's hot / car has been driving from more than 30 / 40 mins in nyc summer traffic with car in neutral, blip the gas pedal to 1500 rpm and the slow climbing revs start, continue to rev (again turn off to fix).
- I've read the fried ECU p0505 thread, examined the ECU (contains STA508A chip) no signs of anything burned/damaged.
-motor mounts disconnect fix done ages back
-IACV bypass done, idle air re-learn performed, idles at ~800-812rpm) (AT spec 700+/-50)
-checked the throttle cable tension (doesn't seem an issue, ie not overly tight or sticking)

Parts replaced: coil packs(oem), new plugs(oem), IACV (hitachi model from Rock Auto), MAF(oem to fix stalling 8secs after start + P0171), thermostat(oem)
Nissan wants $307 for a IACV(oem), which is a bit much. At this point I'm thinking I may have gotten a bad IACV from RockAuto, so I may try to get another IACV(any recommendations?).

 

When I had this problem because I over tightened the throttle body cable, it didn't seem like it should be it, but it happened only on hot days. I verified by physically pushing the throttle body closed where the cable connects as it was happening and the engine immediately dropped back to idle. It doesn't take much for an engine with no load to rev. The difference between this happening and not happening was only about a half turn on the adjustment nuts on the cable.

Only because you didn't mention it, make sure your throttle body is also clean. Seems unlikely, but buildup could also cause the butterfly to not quite close all the way.

 

GBotello29: Just to be safe, I re-checked all the throttle guides to make sure none were pinching the cables or too tight and I loosened the throttle n cruise cables a bit more just to test this next drive cycle.

 

*** Fixed ***
Rreplaced PCV valve(oem) + hose yesterday and the issue seems resolved. Car revs smooth n purrs like new again, no more of the issues described above after an hour+ in nyc evening summer traffic and car idles in spec (~750rpm). Hope it helps.

 

I’m going to replace my pcv valve and see if that helps, I’m still having this issue with my Maxima. I’m praying that this works. Was yours gunked up or anything?

 

I didn't definitively determine it was gunked up but it had what seemed like 1) too much wiggle, side to side play between it and the grommet (pick up grommet before you do the job so you can replace them both at same time), 2) it didn't click when shaken in comparison to the new one and 3) it was the original one that's been there for more than 15yrs. Hope that helps.

2k max PCV https://www.courtesyparts.com/p/Niss...810-31U00.html
2k max Grommet https://www.courtesyparts.com/p/Niss...812-41B00.html

 

Well I replaced the valve and hose still having the same problem, it’s throwing codes p1130 & p1131

 

Sorry it's doesn't sound the same. I never got those codes but I took a look at those and came across the following. Hope it helps
P1130 seems to point to the "Swirl control valve/control solenoid valve" as one of the possible causes https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...code-help.html
Check the DennisMik post and the FSM
link to service manual - http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2001/EC.pdf
Go to page 20, top right corner for location of swirl valve.
Go to page 453 and start reading. Halfway down page 454 is a list of possible causes. You can try the diagnostics, but I bet the swirl valve is bad.
Also see https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...p1130-fix.html

According to some posts p1131 is not a valid code in the FSM (I didn't find it in the link above either) https://www.justanswer.com/nissan/2d...-obd-code.html
But acccording to here the short desc is "Discard rollover sensor" also see https://www.nissanforums.com/threads...-p1131.215922/
and (note: clear code after part change) https://forums.nicoclub.com/post6506461.html

Hope it helps