Didn't think I was a N2O noob but...
04-07-2004, 07:49 PM
#1
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Didn't think I was a N2O noob but...
Nitrous gurus, this is for you.
I did the most retarded thing I have ever done to this car.
I have a ZEX dry kit. The kit controls fuel compensation buy injecting nitrous into the vaccuum line to the FPR. OK. This I know. Great.
But I never once questioned putting in a Walbro 255 HIGH PRESSURE fuel pump in place of the original. To make matters worse, I have upgraded to 370cc injectors.
To those that don't know what I'm getting at might be asking why this is so bad. Well, the ZEX kit shoots nitrous into the vaccuum line to the FPR to effectively shut of return flow back to the tank. This in turn maxes out the fuel pressure in the rail. Normal OEM pumps max out at 50-60PSI IIRC.
Well, I sprayed a couple times tonight and I felt little to no difference in accelleration. So, in my infinite wisdom thought, "Oh yeah, I have this cute little fuel pressure gauge thingy... maybe that will tell me something." Well, I hit it again and the gauge read 107PSI!!!!!!
107psi with big injectors... At least I know I wasn't running lean. The ECU must have shortened the pulse widths so I didn't bog, flood out or hydrolock 
.
So. My question is, what can be done to only partially close the FPR when shooting N2O? Is there a specialized adjustable nitrous FPR that I can mount inline? Then I could modify the ZEX kit to not blow N2O into the vaccuum system. Make sense? Am I smoking crack?
Before you say it, I have my reasons for not going to a wet setup.
TIA.
D
I did the most retarded thing I have ever done to this car.
I have a ZEX dry kit. The kit controls fuel compensation buy injecting nitrous into the vaccuum line to the FPR. OK. This I know. Great.
But I never once questioned putting in a Walbro 255 HIGH PRESSURE fuel pump in place of the original. To make matters worse, I have upgraded to 370cc injectors.
To those that don't know what I'm getting at might be asking why this is so bad. Well, the ZEX kit shoots nitrous into the vaccuum line to the FPR to effectively shut of return flow back to the tank. This in turn maxes out the fuel pressure in the rail. Normal OEM pumps max out at 50-60PSI IIRC.
Well, I sprayed a couple times tonight and I felt little to no difference in accelleration. So, in my infinite wisdom thought, "Oh yeah, I have this cute little fuel pressure gauge thingy... maybe that will tell me something." Well, I hit it again and the gauge read 107PSI!!!!!!
107psi with big injectors... At least I know I wasn't running lean. The ECU must have shortened the pulse widths so I didn't bog, flood out or hydrolock .So. My question is, what can be done to only partially close the FPR when shooting N2O? Is there a specialized adjustable nitrous FPR that I can mount inline? Then I could modify the ZEX kit to not blow N2O into the vaccuum system. Make sense? Am I smoking crack?
Before you say it, I have my reasons for not going to a wet setup.
TIA.
D
04-07-2004, 09:10 PM
#2
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u could get rid of that vacuum line and the fuel upgrades and add a NOS fuel solenoid to the picture and wha la u have a ZEX/NOS hybrid wet system ive seen this done b4 it works.... (wrote all this b4 i read that u dont wanna up grade to wet ..but useful info anyway so im not erasing)
but if u wanna keep the dry shot u could use a FPR and lower the pressure then when the zex module shoots the vacuum itll then put u at the correct FP... what is ur FP under regular driving (2-4k rpms)? and is the 107psi a constant FP when WOT and Spraying, like if u run it 3 times will the 3 times read a FP of 107?
but if u wanna keep the dry shot u could use a FPR and lower the pressure then when the zex module shoots the vacuum itll then put u at the correct FP... what is ur FP under regular driving (2-4k rpms)? and is the 107psi a constant FP when WOT and Spraying, like if u run it 3 times will the 3 times read a FP of 107?
04-08-2004, 08:16 AM
#3
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Originally Posted by DaThrillr
u could get rid of that vacuum line and the fuel upgrades and add a NOS fuel solenoid to the picture and wha la u have a ZEX/NOS hybrid wet system ive seen this done b4 it works.... (wrote all this b4 i read that u dont wanna up grade to wet ..but useful info anyway so im not erasing)
but if u wanna keep the dry shot u could use a FPR and lower the pressure then when the zex module shoots the vacuum itll then put u at the correct FP... what is ur FP under regular driving (2-4k rpms)? and is the 107psi a constant FP when WOT and Spraying, like if u run it 3 times will the 3 times read a FP of 107?
but if u wanna keep the dry shot u could use a FPR and lower the pressure then when the zex module shoots the vacuum itll then put u at the correct FP... what is ur FP under regular driving (2-4k rpms)? and is the 107psi a constant FP when WOT and Spraying, like if u run it 3 times will the 3 times read a FP of 107?
Yeah, if I did switch to wet, that would be an easy solution. Thanks for the tip.
I have the base FP set to 34psi. Under WOT, it rises to 44-45psi. When spraying, it instantly jumps to 100+psi and holds steady. I don't think backing off the base pressure would solve this problem as the pressure from the nitrous will always trick the pump into going nuts. At least, I really don't think that I could back it off enough to cause a 40 psi drop to 60 something psi. I'm already running lean with the current setup while driving without N2O too. I have the safc2 correcting 35% and it is still knocking every now and then.
How do other dry systems restrict the return fuel flow? Do thay all spray nitrous into the vaccuum lines? I thought ZEX was the only one that did this; since so many people talk crap about the kit for this reason.
D
04-08-2004, 08:37 AM
#4
Originally Posted by sleepermaxima
Yeah, if I did switch to wet, that would be an easy solution. Thanks for the tip.
I have the base FP set to 34psi. Under WOT, it rises to 44-45psi. When spraying, it instantly jumps to 100+psi and holds steady. I don't think backing off the base pressure would solve this problem as the pressure from the nitrous will always trick the pump into going nuts. At least, I really don't think that I could back it off enough to cause a 40 psi drop to 60 something psi. I'm already running lean with the current setup while driving without N2O too. I have the safc2 correcting 35% and it is still knocking every now and then.
How do other dry systems restrict the return fuel flow? Do thay all spray nitrous into the vaccuum lines? I thought ZEX was the only one that did this; since so many people talk crap about the kit for this reason.
D
I have the base FP set to 34psi. Under WOT, it rises to 44-45psi. When spraying, it instantly jumps to 100+psi and holds steady. I don't think backing off the base pressure would solve this problem as the pressure from the nitrous will always trick the pump into going nuts. At least, I really don't think that I could back it off enough to cause a 40 psi drop to 60 something psi. I'm already running lean with the current setup while driving without N2O too. I have the safc2 correcting 35% and it is still knocking every now and then.
How do other dry systems restrict the return fuel flow? Do thay all spray nitrous into the vaccuum lines? I thought ZEX was the only one that did this; since so many people talk crap about the kit for this reason.
D
Our kit is self regulating and adjusts fuel pressure according to bottle pressure.
Thats smart but what controls the fuel pressure for different size jets I'm not sure.
NOS uses a jet in the vacuum line to control the amount of nitrous that goes to the top of the fuel pressure regulator diaphram. Different size jet, different fuel pressure.
Adjusting your base fuel pressure ain't gonna do it.
One of the reasons I don't like dry kits is because of the fuel pressure increase necessary to give the extra fuel required for the nitrous.
Injectors are designed to operate under the same pressure differential at ALL times. Do you know why your fuel pressure goes from 34 to 43 upon WOT? Because the vacuum goes from approx 22" to 0 when you go WOT. The injector is located in the manifold where this is happening. 22" of vacuum is approx 10 psi so the injector is still operating under the same differential even though the fuel pressure has increased by 10 psi, because the manifold has just dropped by 10 psi.
This is the chart I used for my old NOS kit.
04-08-2004, 07:16 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by Jime
What makes your ZEX™ kit better than other brands?
Our kit is self regulating and adjusts fuel pressure according to bottle pressure.
Thats smart but what controls the fuel pressure for different size jets I'm not sure.
NOS uses a jet in the vacuum line to control the amount of nitrous that goes to the top of the fuel pressure regulator diaphram. Different size jet, different fuel pressure.
Adjusting your base fuel pressure ain't gonna do it.
One of the reasons I don't like dry kits is because of the fuel pressure increase necessary to give the extra fuel required for the nitrous.
Injectors are designed to operate under the same pressure differential at ALL times. Do you know why your fuel pressure goes from 34 to 43 upon WOT? Because the vacuum goes from approx 22" to 0 when you go WOT. The injector is located in the manifold where this is happening. 22" of vacuum is approx 10 psi so the injector is still operating under the same differential even though the fuel pressure has increased by 10 psi, because the manifold has just dropped by 10 psi.
This is the chart I used for my old NOS kit.
Our kit is self regulating and adjusts fuel pressure according to bottle pressure.
Thats smart but what controls the fuel pressure for different size jets I'm not sure.
NOS uses a jet in the vacuum line to control the amount of nitrous that goes to the top of the fuel pressure regulator diaphram. Different size jet, different fuel pressure.
Adjusting your base fuel pressure ain't gonna do it.
One of the reasons I don't like dry kits is because of the fuel pressure increase necessary to give the extra fuel required for the nitrous.
Injectors are designed to operate under the same pressure differential at ALL times. Do you know why your fuel pressure goes from 34 to 43 upon WOT? Because the vacuum goes from approx 22" to 0 when you go WOT. The injector is located in the manifold where this is happening. 22" of vacuum is approx 10 psi so the injector is still operating under the same differential even though the fuel pressure has increased by 10 psi, because the manifold has just dropped by 10 psi.
This is the chart I used for my old NOS kit.
Please correct me if I'm wrong:
So it sounds like the NOS dry kits work the same. Jet size goes down on the vaccuum line while the N2O jet size goes up. Zex dry kits have a jet for the vac line too. Instead of the line running like this (without a dry nitrous setup): Manifold -> FPR, it runs like this: manifold -> NMU (Zex box) -> FPR. And inside of the box, the following path is made: fitting for vac line to manifold -> .0XX" jet -> tee hooked to N2O solenoid -> fitting for vac line to FPR. Nitrous get shot both ways; to the fpr and the manifold. Ignoring the fact that the main nozzle in the intake plumbing get shot too.
A dry NOS setup will also not compensate for a over-grown fuel pump like mine, correct? Because if the regulator diaphragm gets a shot of nitrous there has to be a similar setup... unless there is a lot of expensive gadgetry (if that is a word) behind it. But like you said, the pressure against the fpr diaphragm is regulated by the jet size. It is not smart enought to 'pick' the best fuel pressure.
I knew enough to know better. I just wasn't thinking it all through I guess.
If my logic is correct, I should be able to 'port' my jet on the 'to manifold' vac line and get a lower pressure on the fpr diaphragm. Am I making sense? I guess I have the gadgets to monitor this test and tune activity... got my wideband O2 bung installed this morning.
D
04-08-2004, 07:38 PM
#7
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You might want to consider teeing some 1 way check valves into the vacuum line to bleed off the excess nitrous pressure on your FPR. You can get them in a pet store by the aquarium's for like $1.50ea. This is an old trick honda guy's do to bleed off boost pressure so it doesn't effect the MAP sensor signal to the ECU. You may have to use more then 1 check valve to reach the fuel pressure you desire when the nitrous is being use. This is a good way to do it because you won't have to keep adjusting your FP up or down for normal driving conditions. It will only increase to your desired fuel pressure when the nitrous is activated.
One thing I want to know is since your using 370cc fuel injectors did you have your ECU programmed to work with that specific size of injector. I know that ECU controls the duty cycle of the injectors. And it does this using specific calculations (pre-set maps) for a specific injector size. Most guy's who are using these injectors in there supercharged or turbo charged Maxima's have JWT reprogram their ECU's to work with the 370cc injectors. The reason I ask is because the 370cc injector's can actually be over-working or under-working since there being controlled via the ECU's factory programming for the 240cc injector's. This would cause the coil's inside the injector to heat up to fast & possibly force them to remain open 100% of the time. Keep in mind that since most EFI spark ignited engines use what is called a "saturated injector" system instead of a "peak & hold" style. Most high performance fuel injection systems use "peak & hold" style since the injector's are being opened & closed so fast (milliseconds) the peak & hold injector's don't take as long to respond. For example a saturated design injector might take 2 milliseconds to open & close once (duty cycle) & a peak & hold design will take 1.5 milliseconds to complete 1 duty cycle. Think about how many times the injector open's & closes @ 5500RPM's, 2 milliseconds might seem like an eternity. The reason most production engines use a saturated injection system is because they are alot more reliable & cheaper to produce then a peak & hold style.
One thing I want to know is since your using 370cc fuel injectors did you have your ECU programmed to work with that specific size of injector. I know that ECU controls the duty cycle of the injectors. And it does this using specific calculations (pre-set maps) for a specific injector size. Most guy's who are using these injectors in there supercharged or turbo charged Maxima's have JWT reprogram their ECU's to work with the 370cc injectors. The reason I ask is because the 370cc injector's can actually be over-working or under-working since there being controlled via the ECU's factory programming for the 240cc injector's. This would cause the coil's inside the injector to heat up to fast & possibly force them to remain open 100% of the time. Keep in mind that since most EFI spark ignited engines use what is called a "saturated injector" system instead of a "peak & hold" style. Most high performance fuel injection systems use "peak & hold" style since the injector's are being opened & closed so fast (milliseconds) the peak & hold injector's don't take as long to respond. For example a saturated design injector might take 2 milliseconds to open & close once (duty cycle) & a peak & hold design will take 1.5 milliseconds to complete 1 duty cycle. Think about how many times the injector open's & closes @ 5500RPM's, 2 milliseconds might seem like an eternity. The reason most production engines use a saturated injection system is because they are alot more reliable & cheaper to produce then a peak & hold style.
04-08-2004, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Maximus101
You might want to consider teeing some 1 way check valves into the vacuum line to bleed off the excess nitrous pressure on your FPR. You can get them in a pet store by the aquarium's for like $1.50ea. This is an old trick honda guy's do to bleed off boost pressure so it doesn't effect the MAP sensor signal to the ECU. You may have to use more then 1 check valve to reach the fuel pressure you desire when the nitrous is being use. This is a good way to do it because you won't have to keep adjusting your FP up or down for normal driving conditions. It will only increase to your desired fuel pressure when the nitrous is activated.
One thing I want to know is since your using 370cc fuel injectors did you have your ECU programmed to work with that specific size of injector. I know that ECU controls the duty cycle of the injectors. And it does this using specific calculations (pre-set maps) for a specific injector size. Most guy's who are using these injectors in there supercharged or turbo charged Maxima's have JWT reprogram their ECU's to work with the 370cc injectors. The reason I ask is because the 370cc injector's can actually be over-working or under-working since there being controlled via the ECU's factory programming for the 240cc injector's. This would cause the coil's inside the injector to heat up to fast & possibly force them to remain open 100% of the time. Keep in mind that since most EFI spark ignited engines use what is called a "saturated injector" system instead of a "peak & hold" style. Most high performance fuel injection systems use "peak & hold" style since the injector's are being opened & closed so fast (milliseconds) the peak & hold injector's don't take as long to respond. For example a saturated design injector might take 2 milliseconds to open & close once (duty cycle) & a peak & hold design will take 1.5 milliseconds to complete 1 duty cycle. Think about how many times the injector open's & closes @ 5500RPM's, 2 milliseconds might seem like an eternity. The reason most production engines use a saturated injection system is because they are alot more reliable & cheaper to produce then a peak & hold style.
One thing I want to know is since your using 370cc fuel injectors did you have your ECU programmed to work with that specific size of injector. I know that ECU controls the duty cycle of the injectors. And it does this using specific calculations (pre-set maps) for a specific injector size. Most guy's who are using these injectors in there supercharged or turbo charged Maxima's have JWT reprogram their ECU's to work with the 370cc injectors. The reason I ask is because the 370cc injector's can actually be over-working or under-working since there being controlled via the ECU's factory programming for the 240cc injector's. This would cause the coil's inside the injector to heat up to fast & possibly force them to remain open 100% of the time. Keep in mind that since most EFI spark ignited engines use what is called a "saturated injector" system instead of a "peak & hold" style. Most high performance fuel injection systems use "peak & hold" style since the injector's are being opened & closed so fast (milliseconds) the peak & hold injector's don't take as long to respond. For example a saturated design injector might take 2 milliseconds to open & close once (duty cycle) & a peak & hold design will take 1.5 milliseconds to complete 1 duty cycle. Think about how many times the injector open's & closes @ 5500RPM's, 2 milliseconds might seem like an eternity. The reason most production engines use a saturated injection system is because they are alot more reliable & cheaper to produce then a peak & hold style.
I also have the z32 MAF... so the ecu thinks it's getting 50% less air... so it is shortening the pulse to compensate. Underworking them I assume. I'm not sure how that will cause the solenoid assembly in the injector to heat up. I have to assume all of our injectors are set up with a normally closed solenoid. So it is energized only when opening, hence they should run cooler. Right?
I do not have the JWT ecu. I will go along without it for as long as possible. I have a feeling that I'll paint myself into a corner with all of my seat of the pants mods. Anyway, for now, I'm tuning this on my own; relatively speaking. Scary thought.
D
04-08-2004, 11:56 PM
#9
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Sleepermax:
The V2 is a supercharger kit correct? Once you install the V2 won't you need a FMU anyways instead of a standard FPR? Once you install the supercharger don't you think that you probably won't need to use that big of a nitrous shot anyway? I would think at most maybe 15 to 20hp just enough to help cool the intake charge to increase the air density? Do you plan on running a intercooler with your V2? if so would you just plumb the dry nozzle directly into the intercooler? I think that the check valve thing would be the way to go atleast until you install the supercharger!!!
The V2 is a supercharger kit correct? Once you install the V2 won't you need a FMU anyways instead of a standard FPR? Once you install the supercharger don't you think that you probably won't need to use that big of a nitrous shot anyway? I would think at most maybe 15 to 20hp just enough to help cool the intake charge to increase the air density? Do you plan on running a intercooler with your V2? if so would you just plumb the dry nozzle directly into the intercooler? I think that the check valve thing would be the way to go atleast until you install the supercharger!!!
04-09-2004, 12:04 AM
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I forgot to answer your question about the injector's. Yes, if they are under driven then they would not heat up as quickly, but if there over driven then they will heat up alot faster. Your z32 MAF will make them work less until WOT when the ECU go's to open loop mode. Then it's just max delivery. But when it is in open loop mode, isn't the open loop mode information still based off of 240cc injectors? I'm not positive about that, just asking?
04-09-2004, 07:28 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by Maximus101
Sleepermax:
The V2 is a supercharger kit correct? Once you install the V2 won't you need a FMU anyways instead of a standard FPR? Once you install the supercharger don't you think that you probably won't need to use that big of a nitrous shot anyway? I would think at most maybe 15 to 20hp just enough to help cool the intake charge to increase the air density? Do you plan on running a intercooler with your V2? if so would you just plumb the dry nozzle directly into the intercooler? I think that the check valve thing would be the way to go atleast until you install the supercharger!!!
The V2 is a supercharger kit correct? Once you install the V2 won't you need a FMU anyways instead of a standard FPR? Once you install the supercharger don't you think that you probably won't need to use that big of a nitrous shot anyway? I would think at most maybe 15 to 20hp just enough to help cool the intake charge to increase the air density? Do you plan on running a intercooler with your V2? if so would you just plumb the dry nozzle directly into the intercooler? I think that the check valve thing would be the way to go atleast until you install the supercharger!!!
I'm running a 50 shot. If I were just SC'ed, I would end up being as fast or slower on the 1/4. Not worth it IMO. Actually, the only reason I'm installing a SC on this car is the fact that N2O power fades as the RPMs increase. So slap on a SC where the power increases as the RPMs increase and now I should have a pretty flat and wide power band.
I will possibly go to a 75 if I can feel comfortable enough with the 50 and the boost (and have a motor left). I'm not planning on using the N2O for cooling. Too expensive at $4/lb for nitrous. I'm going to run a variable rate water/methanol injection system for cooling. No FMIC or AWIC.
D
04-09-2004, 07:39 AM
#12
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Originally Posted by Maximus101
I forgot to answer your question about the injector's. Yes, if they are under driven then they would not heat up as quickly, but if there over driven then they will heat up alot faster. Your z32 MAF will make them work less until WOT when the ECU go's to open loop mode. Then it's just max delivery. But when it is in open loop mode, isn't the open loop mode information still based off of 240cc injectors? I'm not positive about that, just asking?
We'll see.D
04-09-2004, 02:02 PM
#13
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I hear you, but if I'm not mistaken most superchargers make the majority of there power gains in the low & mid RPM range. If you really want that strong mid to top end pull then I would suggest going with a turbo charger? Superchargers give you that instant power feeling down low because there belt driven, so the power is instantanious. But the turbo gives you endless top end power. Just depends on gear ratio's at that point. Don't forget if your turbo is too big then you get too much turbo lag of the line, but once the vehicle's moving, watch out!!!
As far as the injector's are concerned I ask these questions because I am running a 50hp shot dry system that I converted from a wet system. I had to get an aftermarket FPR (obxracingsports.com). Since I don't have the part that will pressurize the top of the stock FPR to increase fuel pressure when the nitrous is activated. So I have to set my psi manually before I use the N20. I usually set it to 55psi with my 50hp shot & it works really good. It really pin's me in the seat. But the other thing I noticed was even when it's set @ 55psi under normal driving conditions (no bottle) the car is alot quicker then it is at the stock setting of 43psi. And the car doesn't bog, the injector's don't make any abnormal ticking noise's & I don't see any raw gas coming out the exhaust so I know the vehicle is useing the additional fuel when it's normally asperated. I do plan on upgrading to the 370cc injector's in the future when I decide to go with a bigger shot, but I want to make sure before I do that I know exactly what I need to modify for the larger injector's to function properly during all driving conditions. Sounds like the z32 MAF is a good option, especially if your planning to boost your vehicle. But computer reprogramming seems like it's the best way to go for use with both N20 or when boosting. What would you suggest? Do you think I would be better off keeping the stock injector's & just going with a direct port set up? Or larger injector's, reprogramming with dry N20 system?
As far as the injector's are concerned I ask these questions because I am running a 50hp shot dry system that I converted from a wet system. I had to get an aftermarket FPR (obxracingsports.com). Since I don't have the part that will pressurize the top of the stock FPR to increase fuel pressure when the nitrous is activated. So I have to set my psi manually before I use the N20. I usually set it to 55psi with my 50hp shot & it works really good. It really pin's me in the seat. But the other thing I noticed was even when it's set @ 55psi under normal driving conditions (no bottle) the car is alot quicker then it is at the stock setting of 43psi. And the car doesn't bog, the injector's don't make any abnormal ticking noise's & I don't see any raw gas coming out the exhaust so I know the vehicle is useing the additional fuel when it's normally asperated. I do plan on upgrading to the 370cc injector's in the future when I decide to go with a bigger shot, but I want to make sure before I do that I know exactly what I need to modify for the larger injector's to function properly during all driving conditions. Sounds like the z32 MAF is a good option, especially if your planning to boost your vehicle. But computer reprogramming seems like it's the best way to go for use with both N20 or when boosting. What would you suggest? Do you think I would be better off keeping the stock injector's & just going with a direct port set up? Or larger injector's, reprogramming with dry N20 system?
04-09-2004, 03:32 PM
#14
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If you look at a few dynos of SC'd max's you'll see the the power keeps growing until redline. Maximum manifold pressure is not reached until topend. Pressures generated on the lowend (2.5K - 3.5K) are minimal and do not yeild much for power gains. Turbos on the other hand can develop full boost before 3K rpm if that is desired. Honestly, I'd much rather have a turbo setup.
I plan to get a turbo but I wanted to try my SC theory out first. The experience is good for me too. A lot of the mods required to SC a car are required to TC a car too. Once the turbo goes on, the nitrous will get yanked.
So I have my plans for the future but until then, I'm going to fight with this dry N2O/SC/nonJWT setup. I like a challenge.
My opinion, if you are gonna shoot a 100+ shot invest in the conversion to a wet multi-port. That is if you think the motor passes a leak-down test with flying colors. The USED 370cc injectors and USED z32MAF will cost at about $300... not to mention if you want to clean it up with the JWT; we all know how much those are.
By the way, I chatted with a ZEX support rep that told me NX and NW jets work with ZEX fittings. So I have ordered a set of 8 NX jets from ebay. Sizes range from .045 to .070. I hope that will fix this issue. If so, my kit will have ZEX, NOS and NX components.
I haven't sprayed since last SEPTEMBER... I'm going nuts from nitrous withdrawls. 
D
I plan to get a turbo but I wanted to try my SC theory out first. The experience is good for me too. A lot of the mods required to SC a car are required to TC a car too. Once the turbo goes on, the nitrous will get yanked.
So I have my plans for the future but until then, I'm going to fight with this dry N2O/SC/nonJWT setup. I like a challenge.My opinion, if you are gonna shoot a 100+ shot invest in the conversion to a wet multi-port. That is if you think the motor passes a leak-down test with flying colors. The USED 370cc injectors and USED z32MAF will cost at about $300... not to mention if you want to clean it up with the JWT; we all know how much those are.
By the way, I chatted with a ZEX support rep that told me NX and NW jets work with ZEX fittings. So I have ordered a set of 8 NX jets from ebay. Sizes range from .045 to .070. I hope that will fix this issue. If so, my kit will have ZEX, NOS and NX components.
I haven't sprayed since last SEPTEMBER... I'm going nuts from nitrous withdrawls. D
04-09-2004, 04:51 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 176
Well good luck, I understand how you feel about dealing with a challenge. I'm the same way! I will most likely never spray 100hp without some better pistons & rings. I know it can be done without upgrading these parts, but I'm an over do'er & I'd rather have the piece of mind that my motor is gonna hold up. Beside's I know how much life nitrous or any form of boost can take from your engine, no matter how reliable it is. I know alot of people like to believe it's perfectly safe, but intelligent people understand that it's added stress to the engine. Well good luck with the set up & let me how everything turns out. Maybe you can point me in the right direction where I can locate those injector & z32 MAF. Thanks!!!!!
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