i have an auto... and i'm considering to do no2
i've heard that its not good to juice autos

all i know is to use nos on high rpms..
but being an auto and not being able to control shifts.. is it gonna have bad effects on the engine
any input would be appreciated

 

talk to jime, he is pretty much king when it comes to a nitrous powered auto. his kicks A$$!!

 

Just for clarification and scientific reasons, it's N20 = Nitrous Oxide. It would be Nitrogen Dioxide the way you typed it .. just clearing it up ..

 

yea bro i took chemistry too.. i thought people would get my point...

 

And don't call it nos either ... NAWWWSS yo ..

But to help you in your quest, i would PM jime ...

On a side note. And I would think you need to learn a lot or take your car to someone who knows a lot, b/c n2o is cool, but only if you know how to use it properly, and judging by the way you posted... you're not that somebody.

You can use it at low rpms too, mostwith large turbos use it to compensate for turbo lag, and stage it. You may have got that hi rpm use only concept from the use of a WOT switch, well wot doesnt always mean hi rpm. I would be weary of your tranny also, not just the engine depending on how large a shot you're going to use.. fuel is your friend too, it helps cool things down a bit because too lean = engine that's all I know ...

 

thanks for the info.. i definately dont know anything bout n2o... so i will be doing alot of research and will be reading up on this forum alot before i do anything..

 

do some reading and you will find ways to make your auto live with it

 

OT sorry ... but subs1000w, your sig is fantastic ... about the quote theory SOOO true

.. but is that really true the autmaitc latin thing

 

LOL That must be pig latin or something!!

 

hehe yeah Porky latin ...

 

I've gotta question that may just be stupid....I dunno. Everything I have read about nitrous says that you have to have a WOT switch along with another activation switch. My question is this....I don't race with my foot crammed to the floor. At least in 1st or 2nd gear. Why couldn't you operate a system using only a window switch set to say 3500-6000 rpm or so?

 

^^ the unuseful answer is that most kits you buy are set up to run at WOT.. so they deliver a set amount of fuel and a set amount of nitrous.. an amount that your engine can combust running WOT. You'd have to have your setup different if you wanted nitrous to kick in anywhere besides WOT cuz i don't beleive it would be safe to deliver the same amount of fuel/nitrous in those situations.

 

ha ha glad you liked it. i have no clue if its true or not and i dont even remember where i saw it, and if anyone is offended by it sorry i quess i like it because in some twisted way it makes me feel better about myself because im definatly a "stick snobb" but i understand why some dont like them ive tried to teach alot of friends and coworkers and i can see why some would not like it, though the "uncoordinated" part definitly plays a HUGE part in it

 

the reason it has to be WOT is the computer has much more aggressive timming maps and much leaner A/F ratios at partial throttle (below 70% throttle) and activating the nitrous with these in place "could" destroy your engine

besides why would you want to feed your car nitrous at lessthan WOT i assume you mention 1st and 2nd due to traction issues in which you wouldnt want any nitrous at all

best bet would be a 2 stage system that fed lets say a small 35shot at WOT for 1st and 2nd and then a second stage (75-125shot?) activated with a push botton switch+WOT so once you get traction (3rd) you hit the "happy botton" and fly away with around 150hp combined shot of nitrous

or with a sigle stage just have a happy botton + WOT so you can go wide open without spray in 1st and 2nd

i had this setup with a horn botton i bought a autozone screwed to the footrest to the left of the clutch pedal so i could just hit the botton with my left food and "pedal" the nitrous when ever i wanted, but this became a problem when i started loosing races i should have won because of the 7 stage process of shifting (let off nitrous botton, let off gas, push in clutch, shift, let off clutch, floor gas, push nitrous botton) i would start to pull on the car but then i would shift and it would take like 1.5 seconds to shift (as aposed to .4 - .5) and they would gain a car back or if we were even they would pull a car so i took that out and just have the WOT which i can live with for now but would like to go to a 2 stage or progressive nitrous controller eventually

 

so would you then suggest a window switch in conjunction with a WOT? my biggest fear is that I'll miss a gear and redline...thats why I'm so set on using a window switch, even though I may not even use it til the mid of 2nd gear.

kinda off the original subject, but....how much abuse can the axles take from using drag radials or slicks? I read about everybody using them, but never really hear any details like that.....and if you use drag radials, would you suggest putting them on my 17's the way theyare or getting some 15 or 16" beater wheels for them?

 

an RPM switch would be fine

do have a stock clutch if so you dont need to worry about breaking anything but it

with a sticky clutch and sticky tires you will probobly break the trans before the axles but just make sure to control wheel hop because thats what brakes axles

 

there is so much to learn about nitrous. i want to get a nitrous setup but i dont have that kind of money now.