http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=17

Also, what about their FPSS?
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=135

TIA.

 

The warmer looks great. The FPSS I am not to hot on, regardless of who makes it. I have seen fuel failures that the FPSS was not quick enough to prevent a blown engine.

 

You think that could be because of how low they had it adjusted?

I intend to set it 2-3psi below my shot size, which hopefully won't prematurely trip.

 

No I think its just the response time. With my current setup, from the time I hit the nitrous switch to system shut down is 0.4 seconds. Thats with the Maximizer and wideband which shuts down at a preset a/f ratio.

By the time the pressure drops sufficiently to shut the system down with an fpss its sometimes too late. I just don't trust them anymore because of a couple of failures I have witnessed.

 

Well that blows...now I'm worried.

I don't like that this uses the stock narrowband 02, but do you think this is better or worse?

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=67

 

Hmmm, looks like it cuts off at 14.5 thats a bit high. Mine is set for 12.5 but for $99 its much cheaper than a Maximizer and Wideband, I have close to $1k in mine. But its ont he right track, hope you saw the Zex exclusion.

 

They're working on a programable one, but I'm sure with a bit of electrical trickery, I could lower that down to 12.5:1.

 

"The Air/Fuel switch works with single relay nitrous systems (most systems like DynoTune, NOS and NX, TNT etc..)Note: not for use with ZEX brand systems."

Yeah, not a problem.

 

ok, i'm a newb thats picking up a NX kit on sun. the FPSS is there to protect your car from running lean n blowing up the motor. but waht do you by not shutting off in time?? if i'm running like a 50 shot, ppl say that i do'nt even need to switch my stock fuel pump. i'm going to upgrade it anyways just for safety issues because i want to run a 75 shot. if i get a FPSS, does this mean i need a guage too??

What do i need so make sure that i wo'nt blow my engine because of not enough fuel. i'm not planning to get guages..but..now i dunno...

 

I have their 806 Performance bottle heater bracket and its good quality, they got good customer service and fast shipping.

 

i thought at WOT your o2 sensors dont read. How is this computer chip gonna read off the o2 sensor when you use your Nitrous at WOT.. or am i Wrong.

 

The o2 sensors read but the ECU goes to a programmed fuel map. So it will still work. However a narrowband o2 is only really accurate in the 14:1 a/f range thats why I believe its set to shut down at around 14.6 from what I read in the spec on it.

My wideband can be programmed to shut it down anywhere so I have it at 12.5 to be safe.

 

What I am saying is that I know of a couple of guys who have blown engines with an FPSS that didn't shut the system down quickly enough. You can blow an engine almost instaneously when fuel pressure is gone and if the FPSS doesn't react instantly its too late.

I'm not trying to scare anyone, just reporting what I have observed. You cannot set the FPSS to close to working pressure because it does fluctuate when activating the nitrous. When I used mine it was set at 5 psi below working ie 38 with a 43 psi WOT pressure. However I never had a fuel failure so didn't really prove it worked or not.

A gauge is only for checking the pressure, if you happen to look and see no fuel pressure its already too late.

You are probably good to a 75 shot without upgrading the stock pump.

 

Hi Guys,
I do not get on a lot of the boards that often. But I do like to keep an eye on what’s happening as much as I can. Let me try to help on some of the questions if I can.

Our Dynotune bottle warmer is by far the best on the market. If I were to compare it to say the NX warmer, The DynoTune is 300 watts versus 240 for NX so it heats faster. The Dynotune is adjustable so you can pick the pressure you want to set it at. The Dynotune heater kicks back on when the pressure drops by 50 PSI so if it set at 1050 if the pressure drops to 1000 it kicks back on. The NX is preset at 1050 and then has to drop by 150 PSI before it kicks back on. The Dynotune adapter is stainless steel much more durable than NX. Don’t get me wrong NX makes good products - if you go with one of their heaters you will be happy. If you want the best heater than Dynotune is it.

We are beta testing our new air/fuel shutdown switch - this one will have all new circuitry and will work with both narrow band and wide band sensors. It will also be adjustable so you can choose the A/F you want to shut off at.

The FPSS is a tough one as like Jime mentioned it is not a guaranteed safety. We do recommend it cause it can help but it’s not a guarantee in all situations. Our switch is made by Hobbs - one thing we do is test and calibrate each one before it is shipped to guarantee it is working properly.

Thanks to all who have bought our products and if we can help with any questions feel free to email us we would be glad to help.

Thanks,
Dean
www.DynoTuneNitrous.com

 

I could be wrong, but I believe either greddy, apexi, or both, sell a fuel pressure guage with a programable output that can be used to shut off nitrous if your fuel pressure drops below the user preset warning limit. Again, I believe this is a feature, but I'm not positive.

 

Jime - Good point on the narrow band only really being accurate around stoich, which is pretty far from a target AFR of 12:1 or so with N20.

Dean - Wow...nice to see you here. Thanks and I'm already set on buying my warmer from you guys.

mtrai760 - Good point. I was thinking of buying a set of SPA gauges, which also have a programmable output. A simple relay on the TPS input controlled by the FP output and A/F switch should be better then nothing.

 

I have run DynoTunes bottle heater for a year now. Make sure the power wire is thisck enough and it will heat up the bottle real nice. I have burned myself on the bottle handle before not thinking. It does get hot.

 

I got it and I'm REALLY impressed with the quality.

The SS dual port 1/8" manifold and even a $10 Hella relay(my favorite) are worth a 1/3 of what I paid for the whole shebang.

Anyways, haven't hooked it up, however I plan to get a distribution block off my 8-gauge power wire already in the trunk for my sub to provide power. The wire they provided seems pretty beefy...not sure what gauge though.

 

what gauge wire should be used for the dyno tune warmer?

 

so lets say for, for nitrous newbs what should someone get to install along with their kit to make sure that there is no detonation or engine failure?

 

I would get a nitrous pressure gauge and EGT gauge for starters. But that's just me.

 

I will be selling my Dynotune square EGT and FP gauges. PM me if intrested.

 

That all matters on you. Do you know how to use nitrous ONLY at WOT? Can you make sure you wont accidentally press the button before then? Can you make sure not to have the nitrous be in use if you hit rev limiter? Can you make sure not to use the nitrous before 2k RPMs?

What I'm trying to say is, these little "extras" are just things to make your nitrous using experience a lot more enjoyable and satisfactory and a lot less stressful with how much you're having to look out for. So for starters, I suggest you get a nitrous pressure gauge, bottle warmer, fuel pressure gauge, WOT switch, and a electronic window switch. If you're like me and know you can handle watching the gauges a little more carefully, you wont have to buy those.. but remember, one slip-up and it can cost you an engine.

And as for detonation, make sure to use 92+ Premium Octane Fuel.

Good luck,
Gene

 

well, for starters i installed a wet nx kit, arm switch and a WOT switch are present, i am in the process of ordering a nitrous pressure gauge and a nitrous filter, but was just curious to know if it would be beneficial to get a warmer too, as for fuel, nothing below 93 touches her injectors, and i already know about the plugs and 2k rpm, i am looking to order a window switch and have coming on the way +2 step colder plugs. in my opinion i think i am playing it safe... so far!

 

Well since you are not online i cant tell you so ill just post here. I suggest as i did to myself to look at the pressure when we receive our bottle pressure gauges, and then we can see if we actually need a warmer with our miami weather. According to what i have read and researched at 80degree weather the bottle pressure should be around 900ish, and thats pretty much the temp we always have so a warmer is probably not extremly important for now. I am going to invest in other things such as rpm switch and a/f later on.

 

That's awsome!
The dynotune guys are sponsers?

I have your guys bottle heater and works really good.
I recomend a bottle blanket too, to keep in that heat. It's winter here in socal and it cools down real quick without the blanket.

An egt sensor is a much better tool than a wideband senser, but that's just me.