i just got an NX wet kit (50 Shot) and i have all the switches for it, except the RPM activated Window switch. what kind should i get, and where is the best place to get it. Links, or any info would be great.

Thanx

Also i have an auto, what should i set it to? i was thinking 2500, and 6000.

 

Get the MSD digital window switch. They are sold at summit for $90

 

You want to set it to 100-200 before your redline.

 

i was thinking to set it to work between 3000K and 6000K because redline is at 6 1/2.


would that be a good setting?

 

Try www.bakerelectronix.com, they can customize an Adjustable RPM Window Switch with the settings and cutoff you want for about $50.

 

I had mine from 3000-6000 and it slowed me down. Then I set it to 1000-6000 and my times improved. Since you're a newb start with 3000-6000 first, then work your way around.

 

is there anything that i can do so it doesnt spray wile the Auto tranny shifts? i have a valve body stage 2 and a tranny cooler. but i dont want to mess up the tranny by having the N2O spray wile shifting.

 

Just set the window switch at a lower RPM than your shift points. I just left it in D. Nitrous works better at lower RPM vs higher so no sense taking it to the redline.

 

What do you exactly mean? According to my dynos, spraying gave me an X increase in hp at 3000 rpms and the same increase at 6300 rpms. Basically, the increase in hp was constant throughout the whole powerband.

 

The percentage of HP increase is higher at lower RPM because the base HP is lower, but you are correct the increase is constant. What I am really trying to get at here though is the guys who have upped their rev limiters. Running to 7k with nitrous is not going to help your times. Running to stock redline vs letting the trans shift by itself has also proven to produce lower times for me.

 

so setting the rpm regulater to 2000K isnt too low right?

 

is that a good switch?

 

I use it for my vias, and so far it has performed perfectly. It is small and easy to adjust with no pills to change, it has dip switches to change the rpms. You can also have them set a cut off rpm. All this for about $50. They respond to emails if you need help installing it or using it.

 

ok great ill prob go w/it then

Thanx

 

Isn't spraying nitrous at low rpm's extremely bad for your engine since it can't easily rev? (especially outside of 1st gear) I'm talking spraying at rpms less than 3k.

 

so what should i set my low RPM to? for the high im ganna go w/ 6000. (AUTO)

 

start out from 3000-6000. That is where everybody starts off. When you get the hang of it the on rpm will start going down. Even with a perfect setup you can still blow the IM and maf. I have seen it lots of times. It's just a matter of time. I can't afford to have my car break down, my job depends on it. So I'm not spraying anymore.

 

ok Thanx.

BTW i went w/the MSD digital window switch

Thanx alot for the help!

 

great choice. The MSD digital window switch is very easy to set up. And also very easy to chage rpm.

 

One thing to keep in mind, the lower the engine's rpms when you engage the N20, the longer the intake valve is open, thus more N20 will be injected into each cylinder on each intake stroke. That means that a 50hp shot, while boosting torque 75 lb-ft at 3500rpm, will at 1000rpms boost torque by 263 lb-ft!!!! The VQ will not live long under that kind of abuse.

If you are running an automatic, the revs will never be that low at full throttle, but with a manual...

 

good point!!

 

My KA(altima engine) does live to that abuse. You'd be surprised what a nissan engine could take. I only start spraying from 2500rpm. Just because my window switch starts at 1000rpm doesn't mean I start spraying from a 1000rpm.

 

I have always sprayed right out of the hole and it has never caused a problem on the 3 cars I have used nitrous on.

An auto is much better suited to nitrous because you can used it to launch as the gearing is higher and won't spin into oblivion like a stick will. You can also spray through the gears with an auto (which I have pretty much always done) but definately a no no for a manual.

Also spraying at low RPM's does absolutely no harm to the engine provided you do it in 1st gear, after it shifts it only comes down to approx 4k so its not a problem in higher gears. The reason most nitrous manuf's tell you not to spray at low RPM is to cover their a$$. This is NX's response.

Q. How high must the RPM's before activating nitrous?

A. The RPM level is not as important as is the motors ability to rev freely when the nitrous is engaged, I.E. If the vehicle is in low gear, nitrous can be engaged at any time, but if the vehicle is in a higher gear moving at a slow speed when the nitrous is engaged the engine will detonate and damage will occur.

Thats why I can pull a 1.7 60' with an automatic. Something that only a couple of sticks have achieved.

 

I just wanted to make sure that was something that isn't forgotten. It is true that if you are running an automatic the rpms will probably never drop below 2,000 rpms when at full throttle, so the risk is reduced. It is also true that the revs build so fast while launching, that getting the full nitrous effect at low rpms is unlikely. The risk is when someone does a 2nd or 3rd gear pull (especially a manual trans) and engages too early...

 

Nice.
I got that switch about a week ago and it's an awsome buy at 50 bucks.
I only wish I could set rpms to be gear spacific.

Why is the msd more popular here then the baker unit?
Then you have to buy pills... blah blah..

 

It more popular because it has a digital readout (just like having another tach, actually makes it real easy to set your RPM points) that can be set to any RPM in 100 RPM increments between 200-15000 RPM not just 8 resets.

The MSD Digital RPM switch referred to above does not require pills, mine hasn't even had a sniffle.

Plus its a brand name that has been in the industry for years.

 

Hey how are you, I am curious to know. In what cases have you seen the IM blow (intake backfire)? Because if you have a perfect setup then i dont see a reason why you would have a backfire between 3k and 6k rpm unless a solonoid malfunctions or bottle pressure is very low. And also i have learned that a good reason you spray above 3k or so is because there is more air flow, too little airflow and the fuel will puddle up in the intake manifold and cause a backfire, in our VQ the runners are pretty much direct so backfire shoudlnt be likely during proper use and higher rpms. correct me if im wrong im just a nitrous noob.

 

The MSD switch is a great switch very reliable. Here is another option that works extremely well. It also has a built in TPS so no need for a wide open throttle switch (cleaner install) also has multi gear lockout features. So if you want to start the nitrous in second gear due to traction issues you can. It is also dual stage so you can set the RPM begin and end points for not one but 2 stages if needed.

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=194

Dean
dynotunenitrous.com

 

I still don't see why you need a window switch on an auto??? It's just not an issue. Maybe if you don't leave it in Drive. By the time you stomp the pedal to the floor activating the WOT switch, you are into a safe RPM, and like Jime says, it never gets below 4K when it shifts. Keep your foot to the floor, and go. No need to worry about shifting, I also have a stage 2 VB.