I havent used nitrous all throughout the winter season and i went and got my bottle filled a couple of days ago and went through and did a little check of all the system parts before running again. For some reason or another (maybe something happenend when i replaced my battery?) my little ZEX ecu/solenoid box is in the "unprogrammed" mode, as opposed to the "programmed for WOT and switch activation mode" which it was previously in. Its been over 2 years since I installed and honestly can't remember off the top of my head the procedure to reprogram it. Can anyone help me out on that?

On a different note, I'm hoping that some of you who run bottle heaters and are more electronically inclined than I might be able to give me some advice on this one. My bottle heater kit came with a fuse spliced into the line that runs from the activation switch to the power source (in my case the battery), and my bottle heater works fine if you turn it on and then let it heat up, but when you flip the nitrous switch, it seems to short out the bottle heater and the heater won't work until you go take the fuse out and back in to the heater power wire. This is naturally kinda agrivating. I have an Applied Racing Components (ARC - probably not a real big name) bottle heater kit on my ZEX nitrous system. Both the nitrous and bottle heater kit run directly to the positive pole on the battery for power, and both are grounded well. If anyone has any suggestions towards this problem please let me know, as I'd like to not worry as to whether my bottle will be heated at all times!

Thanks in advance

 

I presume you have the wet kit. Go here for programming instructions. You might have disconnected the battery during that time, or extensive length of sitting might have reset itself. Not sure on that one.

http://www.zex.com/Base/Instructions/ZEX132.pdf

As for your bottle heater, it might have a bad switch. You might want to look into replacing that. Do you have the bottle heater switch and the nitrous activation switch tied together somehow? Maybe the same power points or grounding points? Even then it shouldn't really short out the other. You fuse would have probably blown by now as well. I don't have much experience with the heater itself, but after looking at all the connections and hookups it seems very simple.