Just to clear that up, I was running higher than stock A32 FP with the A33 injectors. 48psi if I remember correctly.

 

well I'll be hittind the track today to get some base #'s. stock ecu, 65shot, no weight reduction

hopefully I can get 2 n/a and 2 nitrous passes in

 

well I went to the track today and made a few n/a passes but ever got a chance to spray. lets just say I had a few gremlins riding along (injen came off, now I have a short ram intake and my belt broke)

setup for today was mazda wheels up front, no spare or jack, mevi tied open and 2 step colder plugs. wish I could have spray I would have had a new pb but oh well there is next year

I had alot of problems with wheel hop never had this problem as a auto, guess motor mounts are in my future. I still fell good though cause my best time as a auto was 15.3 n/a and with a 75shot ran a 13.9@95mph. today I ran a 2.260ft and a 15.0-1/4 at 96mph so I am guessing with a 75 shot I should see mid to low 13's easy at around 100mph

today I was going to shot a 65shot but next time out I should have a 75 or 100shot, safc tuned and stiffer motor mount or the mount trick aaron posted

 

Yeah wheelhop ftl, welcome to the world of 5-speed maxi's.

WTF!!!!!! I almost didn't let you leave with that Injen! You PROMISED me that it would be GONE ASAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THROW IT OUT!! Better yet, sell it to a noob in the classifieds!!!!!!

 

the front half of the injen is toast now away I was thinking about getting some piping and move the filter down were the fog light goes

I was going to seek over to the track for about 2hrs and pratice nitrous only passes and slipping the clutch more but it rained again today.

 

It's good that you aren't rushing things with nitrous. I have problems with that myself.

I would definitely fill your motor and tranny mounts though.

 

oh yeah n/a I am crossing the traps near redline so I'll be shifting into fourth with spray.

yesterday I want to pratice launching a 5-speed since it's totally different then a auto. even still I was going to spray yesterday but only 2nd, 3rd and 4th and not 1st that way I am still praticing my launches n/a but my belt broke and my injen come off

atleast now between the dyno and the n/a runs I have a good idea of what needs to be done and how to program the nitrous controller

hopefully Jan. has some nice sunday's and I can hit the track again for a new PB

 

these are the wheels and tires I use up front at the track, so I think I will go alittle larger diameter when I get some new tires and hopefully I will not have to shift into fourth

 

made a few passes last night and the day before with a 65shot, I had the controller set to start spraying at 3500rpms. I was spraying from a roll and soon as the nitrous kicked in it just broke the tires loose and jumps right to redline then I shift tire spin again and since I was on the street doing this I was only about to quickly hit 3rd a few times and it spin once and the other time there was a nice pull

then I try'd a few 2nd gear pulls from a roll and same thing tires spun maybe cause it was cold outside and this was with a 65shot and almost empty bottle.
I am going to reprogram the controller with the activation point at 4000-4500rpms to see what happens and again with 1st gear lockout to see which is better.

 

It's tough spraying nitrous with a manual. With the 75 shot, I can't get 2nd gear to even chirp the tires. With as cold the pavement is now, I think I might have a tiny 2nd gear issue. But most of the time, even 1st gear hooks up with the 75 shot on street tires only if I spray from a 25mph roll. "It's like someone rear ended you" is what a friend said.

 

well looks like I will not get a chance to spray a dry 65shot at the track so I can compare my times as a auto. my nitrous parts should come in by the 3rd and should be install by the weekend

depending on the weather I will either hit the track with a 75 wet shot or go to the dyno and tune for a 100 wet shot and see if it will be worth it to have a extended rev limiter with nitrous

I only want to use the extended rev limiter so I can finish my runs in 3rd as it currently stands I am right around redline going thur the traps n/a

also I will remove the wot tps switch from the zex kit and only use the wot tps switch from the fjo controller to control the soleniods directly instead of goinf thru a relay in my current setup

 

anyone ever dyno their car with a extended rev limiter and nitrous

if so can you please post your n/a and nitrous results

 

so today I took the zex box apart and removed the nitrous soleniod and started to put everything together

only thing I have left to do is install my fuel tee, mount the niods and wet nozzle and I am done

I'll post some pics later of the insides of the zex box encase someone ever wondered but did not want to take their's apart

 

Cool.

I just filled my bottle today for the first time in a month or two. It's time for me to do some more tinkering.

 

I am now running a custom zex wet kit with a 75shot and soon as a get a a/f guage or dyno time a 100shot

I can not wait to see what kind of times I run, even with a 75shot I should have another 15-25 more hp over the dry setup

 

some pic of me taking the zex box apart

 

sorry the pic's look like crap

 

pic's of the soleniods


pic's of the finished install everything is wired and I just need ti fill the bottle and go for a test drive

 

Looks good... and messy. I didn't get a chance to tinker with my car today and I doubt I'll mess with it tomorrow since it's going to be a high of 38 tomorrow and high winds. I want to mess with the 100 shot on pump gas and see if there's any detonation with stock timing. I am guessing with these cold roads, traction in 2nd gear will be sketchy!

 

yeah I had to move a few things around to mount the soleniods on the strut tower, so after I make a few test runs to make sure everything is working fine I'll shorten some wires and get the wire loom

I am going to play with a 100shot soon as I get the a/f saftey switch or get some dyno time

 

well I won a vafc on ebay a few days ago but the seller still has not contacted me. maybe they are mad I got it cheap

but either way I was hoping to have it installed next weekend and go to the dyno shop and tune for a 100shot since the track is closed till late feb

I guess if I do not get the vafc, I'll still tune with the jets for a 100shot and fine tune when I finally get a safc/vafc

 

You shouldn't need a VAFC. But, I have an adjustable FPR to help me with fine tuning for fuel when I don't feel like to buying new jets or changing them out for a slightly different size.

 

This is just a FYI for anyone else who might want to convert their zex dry kit to wet, this is my parts list:

these parts I got from zex
1. zex fuel soleniod PART #NS6641
2. wet nitrous nozzle PART #82025
3. braided line 2ft (-3an) PART #NS6568
4. (1) fittings: -3 AN to 1/8 NPT fitting PART #NS6570
5. (1) fittings: fuel filters, -4 AN to 1/4 NPT PART #NS6579
6. (2) soleniod bracket PART #82105
7. (4) solenoid bracket screw, 10-32 PART #NS6522

these I bought from napa
8. 3/8 fuel tee
9. 2ft high psi fuel line
10. (3) fuel injector hose clamps
11. barbed hose fitting

you can use the zex fuel tee but I think it's too small + I am running 3/8 fuel line after the fuel filter to match up with my afpr

 

I have a afpr also but was going to make a n/a map (with corrections) and nitrous map (0 corrections) with the vafc since I hardly ever spray on the street.
N/A I am running rich after 3500rpm and wanted to lean it out alittle and also control my mevi with it and sell my msd window switch.

but since the seller did not call or email me back yet I am going to wait and see if it's worth spraying with a extended rev limiter and if so go with a jwt ecu and send it back for a dual n/a and nitrous map

the nitrous map I only want it to have a 7200 rev limiter and nothing else

will post the results of the 100shot dyno runs next week, I am hoping to be around 260whp and 300wtq and will bring some 125 jets just encase

 

I gotcha. So you want to make adjustments on certain parts of the fuel map.

I don't see any reason why it would hurt to spray with an extended rev limiter. Honestly, I wouldn't want to rev high anyway for the simple fact that you will be losing torque the higher you rev with nitrous. It might produce more power in the bottom of 2nd gear at 4500rpm than the top of 1st gear at 7000rpm.

And just to make sure, you aren't going to spray with the increased timing of a normal JWT ECU, are you?

 

no, I will not spray with increase timing. I called jwt and they are willing to reflash the ecu and install 2 different maps so I can switch back and forth with a incabin switch

I want the normal jwt program with extended rev limiter, fuel map and timing for n/a use only and a seperate nitrous map that will have only a extended rev limiter with no fuel or timing changes.

with this setup I'll have increase power for my n/a street setup and when I want to spray just flip a switch for the nitrous map or if the dyno results show there is no point in spraying pass the stock rev limit I could just get a use jwt ecu and run that on the street and my stock ecu for the track

 

well I redyno'd the car today with the wet kit and my a/f was perfect between 12.4 to 12.8 with spray and 258whp and 267wtq. I just picked up a motor mount at the yard and will poly fill it tonight or tomorrow.

I did the pulls in 3rd gear on my heavy *** 18inch rims so I am guessing with a 4th gear pull and my track wheels I would be around 270ish. also I my mevi problems came back so I had to tie it open again and once again killing my torque #'s

oh and Aaron was correct it is not going to be worth spraying with a extended rev limiter so I am xing the jwt ecu idea

I this combo will be good for 12's, pending driver error

 

I did have a problem with my mevi and had to tie it open again. when the car is not in gear and I rev it to 5k the mevi opens and stays open till the rpms go below 5k but under a load it opens then slowly closes again. I am clueless to what this problem could be. they data logged my vac with the dyno pulls and it was all over the place.

I'll post the vac graph when he emails it to me. the only thing I could think of is the vac can is not holding. I am going to take it off and check the nipple and make sure everything is sealed.

if I can not fix this problem by track time I am just going to power arm that thing GREY style

 

Yeah, vacuum sucks..

Do it my way. It' s amazing what you can do with a $4 door-lock motor.

 

I think high 12s and low 13s are perfect for NA. But with nitrous, I shoot for mid 11s. I always thought mid/high 12s was too lean for safety.

When I start getting above 150 shot, I will need EGT sensors along with my wideband to watch those temps.

Very simple and effective!

 

I could understand wanting the extra cushion with a 150shot I've seen guys tune for high 10's with really big shots but I think and the shop agree's mid
12's is fine for my current shot size.

as for n/a I would like to go alittle leaner but thats just me. oh, I think the power arm might just appear under my hood even if I do fix the vac problem

 

Need pictures? everybody likes pictures.......

( I like the "power arm" label - I never knew what to call it )

 

sure pic's will help since I can not find the thread were you posted the wiring diagrams and pic's

 

I was thinking about using a (2) 5 pin relays and use the 1st relay to provide a 12v source and the 2nd a ground. then wire 87 to the + side of the arm and 87a to the - side from the 1st relay and wire 87 to the - and 87a to the + on the 2nd relay to the power arm and use the msd to activate both relays. this way when the msd provides the ground it will activate the relay to power the arm and pull the mevi open and when the msd removes the ground the relay with go in reverse and push it closed.

if you have someway thats easier please let me know I already have alot of wires to clean in my engine bay

 

i thought TC only did 3.5's, i spoke to a representative, she said 02+

 

Here's some stuff I had in the Bucket for the MEVI controller. The wiring diagram was hand-drawn, but we could discuss via PM.. The circuit uses relays to charge up a capacitor, so that when the MSD fires at preset RPMs, the capacitor discharges into the door-lock motor. This way, it's momentary power to the motor. Constant power will burn it out. A second capacitor charges when the MSD fires, and when the MSD comes back down from the set point, that capacitor (wired for reverse polarity) is connected to the motor and pulls the shaft back the other way - for a few seconds.



http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2322.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2323.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2324.jpg
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http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2328.jpg
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http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2334.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2335.jpg
Three photos of the same diagram:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2337.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2338.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2339.jpg

 

thanks but I have a few questions that I'll pm you about

 

so is jwt ecu + 75shot recommended for a 4th gen auto?

 

A JWT ECU and ANY nitrous shot is never recommended. Simply put, increased timing and leaned out fuel mixtures along with nitrous will result in a blown motor.

 

here is a quick of me spraying the 100 dry shot from my 1st dyno outing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxqqYd8qvxs