jwt ecu+nitrous vs stock ecu+nitrous
12-03-2007, 11:06 AM
#1
jwt ecu+nitrous vs stock ecu+nitrous
I installed a MEVI intake and really want a extended rev limiter. the problem is jwt wants 600 to program a ecu with just a 7200 rev limiter and nothing else. so I asked them how much for a reflash and the is still 100.00 plus whatever it costs for a used ecu
My plans were to spray a progressive 150shot. now my options are should I do it on the stock ecu with a safc2. should I just get a used jwt ecu with a extended rev limiter and run a smaller 75 or maybe 100shot with a safc2 or install a eu.
my other question is about how much would for a eu and the required harnesses, just trying to get a idea of the cost and which setup do you think would be the fastest on the track
if anyone has a jwt ecu thats willing to sell it in the 300 range pm me
My plans were to spray a progressive 150shot. now my options are should I do it on the stock ecu with a safc2. should I just get a used jwt ecu with a extended rev limiter and run a smaller 75 or maybe 100shot with a safc2 or install a eu.
my other question is about how much would for a eu and the required harnesses, just trying to get a idea of the cost and which setup do you think would be the fastest on the track
if anyone has a jwt ecu thats willing to sell it in the 300 range pm me
Last edited by t6378tp; 12-03-2007 at 11:10 AM.
12-03-2007, 11:31 AM
#2
I believe technosquare can get you a ecu with extended rev and nothing else for much less than that. They will actually build it however you want.
I personally would try and get some kind of ecu or extended rev limiter. Maby get ahold of Dandymax, he rev's up to or above 8k and I believe figured out how to do it himself. I know with my car redline comes way to fast when I'm spraying and I could deffinately use more room.
higher redline, tune, and progressive shot will equall a very fast car
I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for but it's in your pricerange
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=543119
I personally would try and get some kind of ecu or extended rev limiter. Maby get ahold of Dandymax, he rev's up to or above 8k and I believe figured out how to do it himself. I know with my car redline comes way to fast when I'm spraying and I could deffinately use more room.
higher redline, tune, and progressive shot will equall a very fast car
I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for but it's in your pricerange
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=543119
12-03-2007, 12:18 PM
#3
I believe technosquare can get you a ecu with extended rev and nothing else for much less than that. They will actually build it however you want.
I personally would try and get some kind of ecu or extended rev limiter. Maby get ahold of Dandymax, he rev's up to or above 8k and I believe figured out how to do it himself. I know with my car redline comes way to fast when I'm spraying and I could deffinately use more room.
higher redline, tune, and progressive shot will equall a very fast car
I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for but it's in your pricerange
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=543119
I personally would try and get some kind of ecu or extended rev limiter. Maby get ahold of Dandymax, he rev's up to or above 8k and I believe figured out how to do it himself. I know with my car redline comes way to fast when I'm spraying and I could deffinately use more room.
higher redline, tune, and progressive shot will equall a very fast car
I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for but it's in your pricerange
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=543119
the eu in the thread is cheaper than most used jwt ecu's I seen, I would just need more info about tuning and installing them
what does your car run?
12-03-2007, 01:00 PM
#4
I didn't know that about TS.
I don't know much about the eu but I believe there is a writeup somewhere in the stickies that I've ran into.
I've never ran my 75 shot at the track and when I did with my 50 shot I was running dangerously lean @17/1 because I had a clogged fuel jet. And I ran with a full system in the trunk and a box filled with tools in the trunk, plus my heavy fx45 20's. I ran 14.01. So in reality, I don't really know what my car would run with my 75 shot and taking some weight out. I also didn't have the ssim at the time and am in real need of a afc tuner so I havn't been spraying for a bit now untill I can come up with some extra mod $ for a tune.
I don't know much about the eu but I believe there is a writeup somewhere in the stickies that I've ran into.
I've never ran my 75 shot at the track and when I did with my 50 shot I was running dangerously lean @17/1 because I had a clogged fuel jet. And I ran with a full system in the trunk and a box filled with tools in the trunk, plus my heavy fx45 20's. I ran 14.01. So in reality, I don't really know what my car would run with my 75 shot and taking some weight out. I also didn't have the ssim at the time and am in real need of a afc tuner so I havn't been spraying for a bit now untill I can come up with some extra mod $ for a tune.
12-03-2007, 06:21 PM
#6
12-03-2007, 07:05 PM
#9
Not easy/straight forward on an A32 ECU.
Well, it seems as if you've got it figured out for the most part, just doesn't seem like a good idea IMO.
Well, it seems as if you've got it figured out for the most part, just doesn't seem like a good idea IMO.
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-03-2007 at 07:10 PM.
12-03-2007, 08:15 PM
#10
I was kicking around the idea of disconnecting the ks and put a resistor in it's place when I am spraying at the track this way I could control how much timing I pull depending on ohm's
this is just a idea and something I want to confirm but need a way to check and record my timing
12-04-2007, 07:05 AM
#11
I was kicking around the idea of disconnecting the ks and put a resistor in it's place when I am spraying at the track this way I could control how much timing I pull depending on ohm's
this is just a idea and something I want to confirm but need a way to check and record my timing
this is just a idea and something I want to confirm but need a way to check and record my timing
I just installed Data Scan from these guys, and it uses the Consult port to record - and control - and play back - all sorts of stuff.
http://www.blazt.biz/?gclid=CJjyipi80I8CFRsIWAod6BFi9w
It works very well in my '99, anyway....
Cool product.
12-04-2007, 07:48 AM
#13
Datascan has a Gauges view, and just blipping the throttle sitting in the driveway, I can see ignition advance bouncing around 30-40 degrees. It's MUCH faster, displays a lot more parameters, and you can save to a log file automatically and play it back through Data Scan or their optional log viewer (which presents graphs) called Datalog Viewer. Wow.
Plus Data Scan has some testing features where you can turn off cylinders, control radiator fans, advance or retard ignition ! , and other stuff I haven't tried - I've had it working for two days.
Last edited by grey99max; 12-04-2007 at 09:00 AM.
12-04-2007, 08:08 AM
#14
I just my eyes opened to proper monitoring - in the past, I used Digimoto to record data from the OBDII port - it worked OK, but the response time was pretty slow - quick changes weren't recorded.
Datascan has a Gauges view, and just blipping the throttle sitting in the driveway, I can see ignition advance bouncing around 30-40 degrees. It's MUCH faster, displays a lot more parameters, and you can save to a log file automatically and play it back through Data Scan or their optional log viewer (which presents graphs) called Datalog Viewer. Wow.
Plus Data Scan has some testing features where you can turn off cylinders, control radiator fans, advance or retard ignition ! , and other stuff I haven't tried - I've had it working for two days.
Datascan has a Gauges view, and just blipping the throttle sitting in the driveway, I can see ignition advance bouncing around 30-40 degrees. It's MUCH faster, displays a lot more parameters, and you can save to a log file automatically and play it back through Data Scan or their optional log viewer (which presents graphs) called Datalog Viewer. Wow.
Plus Data Scan has some testing features where you can turn off cylinders, control radiator fans, advance or retard ignition ! , and other stuff I haven't tried - I've had it working for two days.
My guess is because they are using the Consult interface vs OBDII.
12-04-2007, 08:33 AM
#15
Are you saying you want to spraying nitrous with the full JWT ECU? They lean things out to make the AFR around 13:1 and they advance timing across the board for 93 octane.
I have done quite a lot of testing on my upgraded ECU, which is very similiar to JWT's tune. I have leaner fuel maps, and advanced timing maps for the absolute most HP with 93 octane.
While testing my 50 and 75 shot with 110 leaded race fuel and a richer fuel jet, I tried spraying on this upgraded program thinking I need the timing advanced for the most HP only if I can prevent detonation and preignition. But even with 110 race fuel and retarded base timing by 8 degrees, I still could not stop the detonation. I flip my switch and go back to the stock program and I put my base timing back to stock and the detonation goes away.
So I feel the best way to tune for nitrous is to start with the stock timing maps. Then advance the base timing slowly until you see detonation on your plugs or until your HP starts to drop off. In the VE, I can guarantee you'll see detonation well before the power starts to drop off even with race fuel.
All this experimenting was done with only a 50 and 75 shot. I want to get things working perfectly before I step up to the 100, 125, and 150.
But, I'd definitely suggest using the stock program. As for just extending the rev limiter by itself, you have to get on the dyno prove that there is a gain in performance by revving that high with nitrous. I am guessing you will be better off by shifting at the stock shift points with nitrous instead of going above 7K. As far as my VE with TONS of breathing mods, the power still drops off around 6400. So revving much above that won't help. So I let the car shift at the stock shift points, which is around 6300 I believe. I have a rev limit of 7200, but I NEVER use it b/c it won't help performance in the 1/4 mile, especially with nitrous.
I have done quite a lot of testing on my upgraded ECU, which is very similiar to JWT's tune. I have leaner fuel maps, and advanced timing maps for the absolute most HP with 93 octane.
While testing my 50 and 75 shot with 110 leaded race fuel and a richer fuel jet, I tried spraying on this upgraded program thinking I need the timing advanced for the most HP only if I can prevent detonation and preignition. But even with 110 race fuel and retarded base timing by 8 degrees, I still could not stop the detonation. I flip my switch and go back to the stock program and I put my base timing back to stock and the detonation goes away.
So I feel the best way to tune for nitrous is to start with the stock timing maps. Then advance the base timing slowly until you see detonation on your plugs or until your HP starts to drop off. In the VE, I can guarantee you'll see detonation well before the power starts to drop off even with race fuel.
All this experimenting was done with only a 50 and 75 shot. I want to get things working perfectly before I step up to the 100, 125, and 150.
But, I'd definitely suggest using the stock program. As for just extending the rev limiter by itself, you have to get on the dyno prove that there is a gain in performance by revving that high with nitrous. I am guessing you will be better off by shifting at the stock shift points with nitrous instead of going above 7K. As far as my VE with TONS of breathing mods, the power still drops off around 6400. So revving much above that won't help. So I let the car shift at the stock shift points, which is around 6300 I believe. I have a rev limit of 7200, but I NEVER use it b/c it won't help performance in the 1/4 mile, especially with nitrous.
12-04-2007, 10:12 AM
#16
For what it's worth:
I just installed Data Scan from these guys, and it uses the Consult port to record - and control - and play back - all sorts of stuff.
http://www.blazt.biz/?gclid=CJjyipi80I8CFRsIWAod6BFi9w
It works very well in my '99, anyway....
I just installed Data Scan from these guys, and it uses the Consult port to record - and control - and play back - all sorts of stuff.
http://www.blazt.biz/?gclid=CJjyipi80I8CFRsIWAod6BFi9w
It works very well in my '99, anyway....
this is pretty cool, was I reading the ad correctly are you also able to make changes with this software or just datalog. please keep us updated when you get to play with this, I am wondering if you make any timing changes are temp or permant
Last edited by t6378tp; 12-04-2007 at 10:15 AM.
12-04-2007, 10:35 AM
#17
Are you saying you want to spraying nitrous with the full JWT ECU? They lean things out to make the AFR around 13:1 and they advance timing across the board for 93 octane.
I have done quite a lot of testing on my upgraded ECU, which is very similiar to JWT's tune. I have leaner fuel maps, and advanced timing maps for the absolute most HP with 93 octane.
While testing my 50 and 75 shot with 110 leaded race fuel and a richer fuel jet, I tried spraying on this upgraded program thinking I need the timing advanced for the most HP only if I can prevent detonation and preignition. But even with 110 race fuel and retarded base timing by 8 degrees, I still could not stop the detonation. I flip my switch and go back to the stock program and I put my base timing back to stock and the detonation goes away.
So I feel the best way to tune for nitrous is to start with the stock timing maps. Then advance the base timing slowly until you see detonation on your plugs or until your HP starts to drop off. In the VE, I can guarantee you'll see detonation well before the power starts to drop off even with race fuel.
All this experimenting was done with only a 50 and 75 shot. I want to get things working perfectly before I step up to the 100, 125, and 150.
But, I'd definitely suggest using the stock program. As for just extending the rev limiter by itself, you have to get on the dyno prove that there is a gain in performance by revving that high with nitrous. I am guessing you will be better off by shifting at the stock shift points with nitrous instead of going above 7K. As far as my VE with TONS of breathing mods, the power still drops off around 6400. So revving much above that won't help. So I let the car shift at the stock shift points, which is around 6300 I believe. I have a rev limit of 7200, but I NEVER use it b/c it won't help performance in the 1/4 mile, especially with nitrous.
I have done quite a lot of testing on my upgraded ECU, which is very similiar to JWT's tune. I have leaner fuel maps, and advanced timing maps for the absolute most HP with 93 octane.
While testing my 50 and 75 shot with 110 leaded race fuel and a richer fuel jet, I tried spraying on this upgraded program thinking I need the timing advanced for the most HP only if I can prevent detonation and preignition. But even with 110 race fuel and retarded base timing by 8 degrees, I still could not stop the detonation. I flip my switch and go back to the stock program and I put my base timing back to stock and the detonation goes away.
So I feel the best way to tune for nitrous is to start with the stock timing maps. Then advance the base timing slowly until you see detonation on your plugs or until your HP starts to drop off. In the VE, I can guarantee you'll see detonation well before the power starts to drop off even with race fuel.
All this experimenting was done with only a 50 and 75 shot. I want to get things working perfectly before I step up to the 100, 125, and 150.
But, I'd definitely suggest using the stock program. As for just extending the rev limiter by itself, you have to get on the dyno prove that there is a gain in performance by revving that high with nitrous. I am guessing you will be better off by shifting at the stock shift points with nitrous instead of going above 7K. As far as my VE with TONS of breathing mods, the power still drops off around 6400. So revving much above that won't help. So I let the car shift at the stock shift points, which is around 6300 I believe. I have a rev limit of 7200, but I NEVER use it b/c it won't help performance in the 1/4 mile, especially with nitrous.
encase you did not know I am no longer a auto and installed a mevi and plan to hit the dyno and track soon as my new bottle warmer comes in the mail. The zex warmer worked off of temp and was not adjustable and on cooler days became hard to keep the temp were I wanted it. so I got a adjustable temp operated unit from harris.
I mainly want the extra rpms so I do not have to shift into 4th at the track I figure the less shifting I have to do the better and if I can shift from 1st at 6500, 2nd around 7000rpm I should be able to hold 3rd thur the 1/4. plus better to have and not need then to need and not have. right now I am trying to figure out what is more cost effect for my needs and a way to confirm timing if I go with the jwt ecu. I will not spray 100shot again till I hit the dyno or atleast get a wideband and a/f gauge and I will not spray the 125 or 150 till I convert to a wet kit
my clutch is broken in my warmer should be here today and I will hit the dyno asap and the track is open saturday weather pending and I should have a better idea what I need and were I am at
Last edited by t6378tp; 12-04-2007 at 10:53 AM.
12-04-2007, 10:52 AM
#18
what I was hoping to do is use the full jwt program for daily driving since I do not spray on the street and when I go to the track pull the timing by playing with different resistors in place of the ks. this is the only way I know how to pull timing on a 4gen without a eu. jwt said they would make a ecu with a
2nd nitrous map good for a 75shot but for the 800.00 I would rather get a eu
encase you did not know I am no longer a auto and installed a mevi and plan to hit the dyno and track soon as my new bottle warmer comes in the mail. The zex warmer worked off of temp and was not adjustable and on cooler days became hard to keep the temp were I wanted it. so I got a adjustable temp operated unit from harris.
I mainly just want the extra rpms so I do not have to shift into 4th at the track I figure the less shifting I have to do the better and better to have and not need then to need and not have
my clutch is broken in my warmer should be here today and will hit the dyno asap and the track is open saturday weather pending and I should have a better idea what I need and were I am at
2nd nitrous map good for a 75shot but for the 800.00 I would rather get a eu
encase you did not know I am no longer a auto and installed a mevi and plan to hit the dyno and track soon as my new bottle warmer comes in the mail. The zex warmer worked off of temp and was not adjustable and on cooler days became hard to keep the temp were I wanted it. so I got a adjustable temp operated unit from harris.
I mainly just want the extra rpms so I do not have to shift into 4th at the track I figure the less shifting I have to do the better and better to have and not need then to need and not have
my clutch is broken in my warmer should be here today and will hit the dyno asap and the track is open saturday weather pending and I should have a better idea what I need and were I am at
So, if you plan on making your car faster, I'd go ahead and accept that you have to end up in 4th gear and get some tires sized accordingly to help you get near the top of 4th gear as you pass through the traps. Some 24.5 slicks should do the job for you as well as a bigger shot of nitrous.
Big I agree with you. $800 for a nitrous program is not a good idea. You will be stuck with that tune for the 75 shot only. And all they probably do is leave the timing stock and just TRY to tune for the optimal AFR. But there are still too many variables to be able to make a cookie cutter nitrous program like this. If you alter your nitrous shot, your fuel pressure, or bottle pressure, the nitrous program will be WAY off.
I would vouch for the EU and start learning on that if you really want a higher rev limiter. But even with the MEVI with nitrous, I don't see how you could benefit from a 7000+ rev limiter. Nitrous produces the most torque at lower rpms. Now if you were turbocharged that produced gobs of top end power near 7K, then that rev limiter would be very beneficial.
But I suggest that you spray on the stock program. The setup that I have is a simple switch that switches between two programs. So on the street, I run my upgraded ECU tune for 93 octane. Then if I want to spray, I flip the switch and it goes back to the stock program on the fly, then I can spray a 50 or 75 shot of nitrous on pump gas.
JWT can probably do this setup also. It's very easy with the correct EPROM tha is capable of holding more than one program. You just have to have the common sense to make sure you only spray on the stock program and not the upgraded one!
12-04-2007, 11:10 AM
#19
Jime mentioned that he had used it for a while - I'm sure he knows all the secrets.
12-04-2007, 11:41 AM
#20
The 3-4 shift is something you will HAVE to do sooner or later. I see a lot of near stock 4th gen 5spds that have to shift into 4th gear in the 1/4 mile.
So, if you plan on making your car faster, I'd go ahead and accept that you have to end up in 4th gear and get some tires sized accordingly to help you get near the top of 4th gear as you pass through the traps. Some 24.5 slicks should do the job for you as well as a bigger shot of nitrous.
So, if you plan on making your car faster, I'd go ahead and accept that you have to end up in 4th gear and get some tires sized accordingly to help you get near the top of 4th gear as you pass through the traps. Some 24.5 slicks should do the job for you as well as a bigger shot of nitrous.
OR:
Got 15x10 wheels? mount a pair of used Hoosier slicks from here: http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT : and try wide and smaller diameter tires on the cheap. Cheap enough for burnout contests....
Last edited by grey99max; 12-04-2007 at 11:43 AM.
12-04-2007, 12:12 PM
#21
You can make timing changes -advance or retard - but they are not permanent... The ECU goes back to default when powered off. Turn ON/OFF the radiator fans, looks like other stuff as well..... those two I tested. Turned off one cylinder, engine went all poopy until turned back on again. Fun.
Jime mentioned that he had used it for a while - I'm sure he knows all the secrets.
Jime mentioned that he had used it for a while - I'm sure he knows all the secrets.
right now I just a set of 235/60/15 street tires on mazda wheels which are about 24.5inches and when I was a auto was able to pull 2.0 60fts spraying off the line with the tires at 17psi
I know these tires will not hold with the 5-speed cause they were at the limits already but they will still tell me if I need to go up in diameter or not to get the rpms I want going thur the traps
Last edited by t6378tp; 12-04-2007 at 12:24 PM.
12-04-2007, 12:32 PM
#22
What he said ^^ Tune with tire size - if you want to stay in 3rd gear, get larger M&Hs - if you want maximum excitement, go for the 23.5/8.5/15 M&Hs - scary harder launch and you should be into 4th gear before the traps. Stay with the stock ECU for the timing - nitrous gives the most kick at lower RPM - but you know that.
OR:
Got 15x10 wheels? mount a pair of used Hoosier slicks from here: http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT : and try wide and smaller diameter tires on the cheap. Cheap enough for burnout contests....
OR:
Got 15x10 wheels? mount a pair of used Hoosier slicks from here: http://stores.ebay.com/Race-Tires-USDRRT : and try wide and smaller diameter tires on the cheap. Cheap enough for burnout contests....
and looks like the 23.5 would be almost perfect and the 24.5 will allow for harder launches and room to grow
has anyone ever dyno'd spraying pass 6500rpms
12-04-2007, 12:41 PM
#23
I was messing around with a few differnet combo's on this site: http://www.eldemoniorojo.com/calculator.htm
and looks like the 23.5 would be almost perfect and the 24.5 will allow for harder launches and room to grow
has anyone ever dyno'd spraying pass 6500rpms
and looks like the 23.5 would be almost perfect and the 24.5 will allow for harder launches and room to grow
has anyone ever dyno'd spraying pass 6500rpms
12-04-2007, 01:16 PM
#24
ok bling bling, those are some shiney drag wheels, good for blinding the driver in the other lane .. lol I like them thought
I guess, I'll be selling the mazda wheels before the summer
I guess, I'll be selling the mazda wheels before the summer
12-04-2007, 01:32 PM
#25
Track-only tires and rims, though...
12-04-2007, 01:37 PM
#26
Grey, have you tried launching with those road racing slicks?
I have a little experience with the Hoosier A3S03 Road Racing slicks. They are hard tires that take a long time to heat up. It usually takes a lap or two in order to get them hot enough to grip. Plus, there won't be any kind of wrinkle in the sidewall. So they might not grip as well as the M&H slicks you are currently using.
I wonder how big of a burnout will be needed in order to get them up to the right temp. I'm guessing a 20+ second burnout might do it. But I've never actually tried to drag race on these type of tires. I'm interested to see how they work out for you.
I have a little experience with the Hoosier A3S03 Road Racing slicks. They are hard tires that take a long time to heat up. It usually takes a lap or two in order to get them hot enough to grip. Plus, there won't be any kind of wrinkle in the sidewall. So they might not grip as well as the M&H slicks you are currently using.
I wonder how big of a burnout will be needed in order to get them up to the right temp. I'm guessing a 20+ second burnout might do it. But I've never actually tried to drag race on these type of tires. I'm interested to see how they work out for you.
12-04-2007, 02:39 PM
#27
Grey, have you tried launching with those road racing slicks?
I have a little experience with the Hoosier A3S03 Road Racing slicks. They are hard tires that take a long time to heat up. It usually takes a lap or two in order to get them hot enough to grip. Plus, there won't be any kind of wrinkle in the sidewall. So they might not grip as well as the M&H slicks you are currently using.
I wonder how big of a burnout will be needed in order to get them up to the right temp. I'm guessing a 20+ second burnout might do it. But I've never actually tried to drag race on these type of tires. I'm interested to see how they work out for you.
I have a little experience with the Hoosier A3S03 Road Racing slicks. They are hard tires that take a long time to heat up. It usually takes a lap or two in order to get them hot enough to grip. Plus, there won't be any kind of wrinkle in the sidewall. So they might not grip as well as the M&H slicks you are currently using.
I wonder how big of a burnout will be needed in order to get them up to the right temp. I'm guessing a 20+ second burnout might do it. But I've never actually tried to drag race on these type of tires. I'm interested to see how they work out for you.
I looked at these very carefully and thought they were worth a "shot" - about 150 of them... Hey , they were $40 for a pair... and I have the wheels for 12/26/15 M&H slicks now, for the stronger 3.5 to spin, if these don't work. Them bad boys look mean!
Last edited by grey99max; 12-05-2007 at 08:59 AM.
12-05-2007, 06:39 AM
#28
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
They lean things out to make the AFR around 13:1 and they advance timing across the board for 93 octane.
Reference thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=JWT+lean
12-05-2007, 07:13 AM
#29
this is how I was going to program the controller to spray the 150shot but I am a long ways from that
I plan to spray a 75shot in 1st but starting at 3000rpms no pulsing and in 2nd gear bring in a 2nd stage 75 progressive shot set to start at 25hp at 4500rpms ramping it to a full 75shot at 5600rpms. but this will take time along witha better suspension and tire setup
or
1st gear lockedout no spray, 2nd spraying the 1st stage of a 75shot no pulsing and the 2nd stage either coming in at 3rd gear and only between 4500-6500rpms no pulsing or have the 2nd stage setup for a progressive 75shot starting at 25hp at 4500rpms and ramping up to the full 75hp at 5600rpms
hopefully I'll have a update this weekend. I plan to make a few passes n/a then test out the 50 and 75shot both with 1st gear lockedout till I get good and launching
I plan to spray a 75shot in 1st but starting at 3000rpms no pulsing and in 2nd gear bring in a 2nd stage 75 progressive shot set to start at 25hp at 4500rpms ramping it to a full 75shot at 5600rpms. but this will take time along witha better suspension and tire setup
or
1st gear lockedout no spray, 2nd spraying the 1st stage of a 75shot no pulsing and the 2nd stage either coming in at 3rd gear and only between 4500-6500rpms no pulsing or have the 2nd stage setup for a progressive 75shot starting at 25hp at 4500rpms and ramping up to the full 75hp at 5600rpms
hopefully I'll have a update this weekend. I plan to make a few passes n/a then test out the 50 and 75shot both with 1st gear lockedout till I get good and launching
12-05-2007, 07:22 AM
#30
On the A32 ECU, it has been noted and verified that they go a touch leaner than would be thought to be safe (14.0 - 14.1) even for an NA application.
Reference thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=JWT+lean
Reference thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=JWT+lean
I have someone willing to sell me has safc but he is not giving it up till he installs his eu. guess I need to go over there and help him
12-05-2007, 07:56 AM
#31
Nope - I blew up first - but don't they look cool? These are a radial construction, very similar to the M&Hs, and the softest compound they make. These are a Hoosier 4350 12/23/5/15 with the R25B compound. 90% tread left.
I looked at these very carefully and thought they were worth a "shot" - about 150 of them... Hey , they were $40 for a pair... and I have the wheels for 12/26/15 M&H slicks now, for the stronger 3.5 to spin, if these don't work. Them bad boys look mean!
I looked at these very carefully and thought they were worth a "shot" - about 150 of them... Hey , they were $40 for a pair... and I have the wheels for 12/26/15 M&H slicks now, for the stronger 3.5 to spin, if these don't work. Them bad boys look mean!
$40 for the pair, it's definitely worth trying!
On the A32 ECU, it has been noted and verified that they go a touch leaner than would be thought to be safe (14.0 - 14.1) even for an NA application.
Reference thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=JWT+lean
Reference thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=JWT+lean
12-05-2007, 08:35 AM
#32
You could feel the front of the car drop on launch when the tires hooked up and wrapped around the rim - plus steering got weird. The Hoosiers I got have radial construction and decent sidewall strength and soft compound. I can try a 12" wide flat tread with good sidewalls and a 23.5" diameter now - when the tracks re-open in spring.
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12-05-2007, 08:50 AM
#33
Oh, they're soft - and after you wipe them off, rubbing your hand across the tire has that same sticky feeling that the M&Hs have... What started the whole used-hoosier thing off was my concern about how the M&Hs would wrap up on the rims at launch, when tire pressure was less than 20psi. Wrinkle-wall is OK, wrap-around-wall is not!
You could feel the front of the car drop on launch when the tires hooked up and wrapped around the rim - plus steering got weird. The Hoosiers I got have radial construction and decent sidewall strength and soft compound. I can try a 12" wide flat tread with good sidewalls and a 23.5" diameter now - when the tracks re-open in spring.
.
You could feel the front of the car drop on launch when the tires hooked up and wrapped around the rim - plus steering got weird. The Hoosiers I got have radial construction and decent sidewall strength and soft compound. I can try a 12" wide flat tread with good sidewalls and a 23.5" diameter now - when the tracks re-open in spring.
.
12-05-2007, 08:57 AM
#34
Are you talking about the sidewall of the slick actually touching the outside part of the rim? I have experienced this now that I have my 15x8 Slipstreams on the 22" MT slicks. Since the sidewall is so small, when I got the pressure down to 12psi, I could see marks on the lip of the wheel where the slicks are wrapping around it. So far, I'm guessing that 14 or 15psi might be the best pressure for my particular setup for safety and maybe for the best traction. I need to do more testing to be sure.
.
12-05-2007, 09:04 AM
#35
What size M&Hs are you referring to?
12-05-2007, 09:18 AM
#36
When I had my slicks at 12psi, they didn't feel unstable through the traps with the 15x8 wheels. But when I had the 22" slicks on the 15x6 wheels, they felt really unstable at 13 or 14psi!
But I am talking about a completely different slick than the M&H.
12-07-2007, 09:38 AM
#38
well bought some 2step colder plugs and side gapped them, installed my new bottle warmer set to 1000psi and a c/f shift that alone is good for 50hp
but the weather is holding and should have some #'s tomorrow, I am going to bring either a 55 and 75 or 75 and 100shot jets. but will not spray 1st gear with any of the shots
my buddy told me that in 3rd you can run round 101mph have not tested it yet so I maybe shifting into 4th so with the 75shot
I am going to do my rain dance again today
but the weather is holding and should have some #'s tomorrow, I am going to bring either a 55 and 75 or 75 and 100shot jets. but will not spray 1st gear with any of the shots
my buddy told me that in 3rd you can run round 101mph have not tested it yet so I maybe shifting into 4th so with the 75shot
I am going to do my rain dance again today
12-10-2007, 08:56 AM
#40