Oops. I made a booboo on the diagram, the msd is going to the switched side of the arming switch, not to the battery.

 

Ok, after reading your post, the diagram should look like this?



think i might take the time to make this look good at some point for general reference. Going to be doing my own nitrous instal hopefully around christmas

 

FPSS is only to be used to cut ground. It can't handle any charge. Wire it inbetween the red wire going from the toggle switch to the relay.

Or just look at my earlier post. I have a diagram made out that should work.

 

Well just because something "cuts ground" (or breaks the circuit) it still has a full charge of the power in the circuit going through it (until it breaks it of course). It's basically a mechanical relay relying on the fuel pressure to keep the internal diaphragm "up" to keep a positive connection through the switch. The original NOs kit had the FPSS on the ground lead of the secondary nitrous solenoid (it ran 2 for regulation of fuel and nitrous pressure). Now that has a lot more load/current going through it than the arming switch.

edit: Here's the diagram




Part of the reason we had the kit wired the way we did, initially, was due to the length of the connectors and wires already present in the kit that just seemed to fit into the car (minus a few odds and ends for the arming switch). Now don't get me wrong, I do agree that having that switch be subjected to those currents would/could lessen the life of the switch. Grant is going to be getting the Dynotune A/F safety cut-off switch here very shortly when he gets a LC1 wideband.

 

As per Dynotune's suggestions. Better safe then sorry. Oh well.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...2192592A-1.jpg
This should work for your setup.

I believe this should work for when you get the lean/rich shut off switch. Can someone verify?

 

I have my system wird alittle different but the concept is all the same. I have the niod hard wire directly to the battery and the relay providing ground

And with my progressive nitrous control is does not samething it adds and removes ground but that part does not matter cause a relay will do whatever you tell it

but any of the diagrams will work fine

 

That's what I meant - the WOT and FPSS just control the +12 volts going to the relay coil, so no high current there. The MSD should always have power connections and tach connection when the car is running - only use the yellow or grey control wires to run other circuits, like the nitrous solenoid relay.

My dual-stage has a lot of tricks - and the diagrams would be confusing, so I'll skip mine. You should know that energizing the solenoid pair can create a voltage spike that can reset the MSD, which takes a while to reboot. I have large electrolytic capacitors across each solenoid relay to absorb the spike. I use a WOT switch for the first stage and a floor switch for the second stage. There's more, but there's lot of bitter experience in there...

You sure stirred up a lot of interest in nitrous wiring diagrams! never saw so many in one thread.......

 

i have mine wired to the horn lol

no WOT switch

not the best setup i know..

 

Does your horn honk when you spray??

 

^^lol no i have a switch to turn the horn on and off

 

Sounds like more trouble then it's worth. Better to just get a window switch.

 

^if i had the $$$ i would

 

I've learned that going cheap on nitrous isn't worth the added risk.

 

You can get a window switch for 50-60 bucks and have a great amount of added protection. You can't accidentally spray above the rev limiter or too low in RPMs with a window switch (setup properly).

 

I have a DynoTune Two Stage RPM Window Switch / TPS for sale for $60 shipped. Here's a link http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=194