And that's just for a quicker spool-up, right? I remember Streetz doing that with his RMT once, and he discovered only a 35-shot would pop his turbo up to boost very fast.

I pulled off the direct-plenum manifold tonight and intend to install the previous direct-port manifold with the extended nozzles tomorrow and see how that works now. I gotta know what really works and in what combinations, just in case, you know, that I might want to try a standing mile somewhere...

 

I'm planning to be at the Texas mile next year, hope to see you there

 

Next year? The spring or fall event?? I'm going to try and make the 2013 run in October - the Mojave mile is set for 2 weeks before that one, but that's hella miles to drive twice in October. To Beeville TX is 823 miles and to Mojave CA is 1,510 miles. Towing the car that far to TX and back again will take about four days - if I sleep at night. It's a lot further for you, right? Dang, Google Maps says 1,742 miles - that's, what, a day and a half of driving for you?

 

Well I'm planning to fly down, rent a car and just watch the spring 2014 event. I would consider driving if enough people go.

By 2015 I should have a C6 ZO6 and plan to enter

 

Yup, that's a lot better than an epic drive across most of the country. A Z06, huh? Lemme guess - it's going to be turbocharged. I like the rules they have there - at least you don't have to make a SCCA racer out of your car - as long as you're under 190mph. !!!

I ran the original direct-port manifold last night and it seems to work jest fine - the lambda stayed about .84 through two 1/2 gears, and with 1/2 tank of E85. Go figure - no lean this time. I wonder if I can get an idea of a top speed run by running on a dyno in 4th gear until fuel cut? Of course this doesn't check top speed because of no air resistance, cause the car isn't moving, but at least I'd have some numbers...

Re-installed Manifold:




Aero fuel filter and FPR:



Closeup:




spark plug -8 heat range. .035 gap:

 

I have one 15 lb NX bottle that has a sticky valve when the bottle is heated up to about 1000psi - It'a almost impossible to open it after heating it - so I'm going to change out the valve with a NX Lightning 45 - new generation. I'll buy two so I can have two NX bottles that look the same. The standard configuration now is with a -6N outlet port and with a 5/8" siphon tube. I'll buy them with the 3000lb blowout disks for spares and blow-off fittings, for those picky tech inspectors.... heck, I might even clean up and paint and re-label the bottles. Purdy, ya know...

Link: http://www.nitrousexpress.com/11700l...b-bottles.html

 

I ordered two of the new NX valves w/6AN fittings and the two accessory items yesterday - they've already shipped. I was wondering how to take off the old valve and checked on YellowBullet forum and the best advice seems to be to put a wrench on the valve, sit on the bottle, and whack the wrench with a hammer until something gives. Works for me - but what size of open-end wrench?

I miked the 7 bottles I have here and found two different sizes - actually the width of the four-sided flats on the valves, and I find both 1 1/16" and 1 1/4" flats. I didn't have any open-end wrenches close to that, so off to Harbor Freight (numba one) and found a set of 14 nice forged/polished SAE wrenches going from 3/8" up to 1 1/4", including both sizes I need. Yea!

The threads that screw into the bottle are all supposed to be 1" and seal with a washer. We'll see - this will wait until I go through a couple more bottles.

"It's always something"

 

naw it won't be turbocharged lth, exhaust, tune and a 150shot, if I get a c6 that will be boosted but then again if I get a c6 might as well get a superchargered ctsv

oh yeah boosting my truck this winter, shooting for 9's maybe even 8's and get kicked off the track

 

"Fun with turbos" - wish I knew more about them... I researched around and found Hal's turboed 350Z for sale. Seems he used a Garrett GT42R to rack up 9-sec runs. Looking at the Garrett web site and playing with their on-line turbo calculator, I can see why. Maybe that's the direction I should go, along with modified stock 350Z exhaust manifolds feeding a T4 mount. Looks like an intercooler is still a good idea, even with the E85.

I like those Caddy CTS-Vs - there's one local one that is tagged "CADZILLA" and runs in the high 11s. It has an itty-bitty pully on the supercharger. Even the exhaust sounds bad.

 

only problem is I don't think the altima intake would be able to handle much more than 12psi. I know the lsx guy seem to have problems when they get into the 12-16psi range

 

You might be right there - it's kinda thin. But - I still have a SSIM and another stock 3.5 UIM to play with. Good ol' aluminum parts.

I just ordered a 2010 Maxima UIM for a test fit on my engine. Until I have "parts in hand" I can't really tell if it might flow better than the Altima intake, but I want to know if it works better. I'm sure it will fit under the hood - since I raised the hood 1 1/2" in the rear.

 

I took a closer look at my two new NX bottle valves, and found a couple of new things. The output from the valve is now thru an AN connector - and since they ship w/4AN and I forgot to request 6AN, I just ordered a couple of those for the valves. The nitrous hoses and connectors in my trunk are already 6AN, so I'm set there. There are two 1/8 NPT gauge outlets if needed - I won't use them. The siphon tube (these are for 15lb bottles) is permanently attached and set to be correct with the valve outlet pointed down, like usual.

The kicker is that I will need a 1 3/4" open-ended wrench to tighten them into the bottle. Another HUGE wrench I won't need for anything else, but if these flow better than some of the ancient valves I have now, I'll replace everything in the fleet. Oh yeah, bought another 15lb NX bottle from eBay kinda cheap, so I can practice on it first. I also got the blowdown adapters and new discs so I can connect tubes for those touchy tech inspectors.

Hmmmm.... I wonder if I could mount like 4 of my bottles in the trunk, in case I went to a standing-mile event, just in case...







EDIT: Got an add-on here - went to HF and found a big adjustable wrench for $14.99 that measured just over 1 3/4", so I brought one home - and it fits!

 

Never stop what your doing.



I love this thread.
Keep up the good work.

 

nice candles to set the mood

 

Those photos were outside on the veranda (porch w/roof) and are killer on skeeters. We lit 'em up, ate dinner out there tonight and - no skeeters!

 

Yep - it's always something. I still have a few more things to de-bug, then dyno time...

 

UPS showed up tonight with a purdy '10 Max manifold. I washed it off inside and outside very well, then sprayed it with Tire Shine - just because I could, and this is the last time it will ever be clean. A quick side-by-side with a '08 Altima UIM shows some of the differences between the two - plenum chamber is larger height and depth - width is the same. The runners really are fatter. If you stick two fingers through the large opening on the side and put them into a runner, on both manifolds, you can really feel the difference. I decided to leave the plenum divider in place, for now. I had removed that divider in the Alty UIM with the direct-plenum spray, but I felt there was a noticable bog when launching.



The large butterfly valve and opening is identical for both manifolds. My existing blockoff plate fits fine.




The other side has two identical openings for the flapper valve and the TB. Fastener spacings are identical - but the '10 TB opening is 7mm larger on the inside, even though bolt spacing is the same.



There is also a 5mm difference between the depth spacing of the two openings, which is great because I can cut another 1/4" aluminum plate to use as a spacer to line everything up ffor my TB adapter and still taper the spacer to make a venturi for the 7mm larger TB opening in the '10 manifold. (from 71mm to 78 mm).



I just shaved the bumpy stuff off the lower lip of the manifold and cut a new strip of 1/4" Kydex plastic to be mounted on the manifold to support the 6 long nitrous nozzles - just like the alty UIM on the car right now. Pix in the following post - must be a 5-photo limit here.

There's a couple of random difference in the plastic parts sticking out of the manifold, but I really think someone could swap out their 2007-up Altim UIM with a 2009-up Maxima UIM. So many parts fit the same..

 

Kydex strip for the nitrous nozzles....



Bottom view of manifolds - the '10 had an extra plastic piece - that's gone now. Vacuum points are the same.



TB view of the '10 UIM.



TB view of the '08 Altima UIM.

 

I cut and mounted the Kydex strip after marking and drilling pilot holes for the nozzles, tapped them for the 1/16" NP nozzles, then inserted 1/8" polyethelene tubing in each hole, then forced black RTV in all the spaces around the strip. This provides a good seal for the long nitrous nozzles. This cured overnight and today, and looks good.







Tonight I cut out a 4" x 4" 1/4" aluminum piece to use as a 7mm spacer, made a template and located the four bolt holes for the TB, then located and drilled out a 3" hole in the center of those boltholes. Kinda messy, using WD-40, but it cut nicely, so I dressed up the piece and mounted it on the Maxima manifold TB opening. Looks good.







I measured the heights of the Altima and Maxima UIMs from the top at the TB side to the level of the join between the UIM and LIM ports. The Maxima is 1/2" taller, which shouldn't be a problem, but may require some tweaks to my TB cable mounts. We'll see - this spacer and the rest of the manifold is ready for final assembly and mounting back on the car this weekend.

 

Today I pulled out the Altima UIM and stripped it down, then began modifying stuff to fit the Maxima manifold. It was a long process, but the finished product is sitting in the garage tonight to cure some RTV. Tomorrow it goes in.

Spacer plate:


Port-matching the spacer to the TB assembly:


Original TB cables mount:


Cable mount sliced and diced for clearance.



Final assembly for TB and cable mounts:



All the parts assembled and installed - Cable mount is raised 1/2" from original:



Another view - actually, this is pretty tricky:



Wood spacers installed between pairs of nitrous nozzles, to hold them steady when changing jets - the overnight RTV cure:

 

you going to the track this year, even a all motor pass would be nice

 

Only when I'm ready... I spent five years towing to tracks and racing to learn that part, about 1 1/2 years building this car, and I want everything working before I go out again. Last year I went out once and found out that the nitrous first stage would not engage, so I made three passes with 110 mph traps with 13.0 sec ETs. I can wait until I understand all my updates - including the E85 conversion -and have them working right.

The car isn't built for NA anyway. It's fun, but no rocket NA. Soon...

 

seeing how your car is heavy as all hell 13 flat isn't bad for you 1st time out, not bad at all

 

Yeah, it's a heavy sucka - even without me in it. But it has all the OEM parts on board, and heavy street tires and wheels and two 35 lb nitrous bottles in the trunk when I'm serious. Sometimes I'd like to have a car that was lighter by 900lbs - but it won't be a Nissan.

I finished installing the 2010 Maxima manifold a few hours ago and went for a NA drive. There seems to be some bogging at the bottom half of first gear and some in second gear but seems to pull harder above 4500. I'm going to have to tune with tape to get that out - at tip-in is where the bog shows but lambda is still around 0.83. ??? There were a couple of clearance problems but I fixed them with a body grinder and hammer,so everything works now - even the cruise control. Pix will follow...

Maybe after 10PM traffic will drop off enough to spray for Mustangs.

EDIT: Three pix of the 2010 manifold shoehorned into the car: jetting is 26N/18-E85 for a nominal 150-shot

 

I forgot to mention that I've been searching for a good way to create an electronic dashboard (in my spare time, anyway) so over the weekend I Googled around and came up with a reference to using an iPad for that, with a WiFi OBD2 adapter. Seemes there is a bunch of YouTube videos about doing that, so I feel dumb. Anyway, since I have an iPad already, I went to PLX and ordered their KiWi 2 WiFi OBD2 adapter, which I saw before but I didn't pick up on the fact it works with iPads as well as iPhones...

It works with ISO9141 so 4th gens are good-to-go. There are also Apple Ap store applications for Dash Command "EDIT: Just for PC - and PLX Logger 3.0" and some other Aps for the iPad. We shall see, but this looks good - and this will be legal at the track - I hope. Notebooks are nice, but "no computers in the cabin" made it impossible to use a notebook.


http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=GSST2WIFI

 

damn I like this

 

I went out for a gallon of Tequila - and came back with a Rocketfish! I went to the local BestBuy and found a basic shell for an iPad2 - for $7.25. I dug out some commercial grade Velcro and put three strips on the back of the Fisn, clipped the iPad into it, set the Brightness up to Max and stuck it on the dash. Amazing - you can see the display clearly on a sunny day. The PLX adapter should be here Friday so maybe I'll have a chance to try the whole package after downloading a couple of OBD2 apps.



Up higher above the radio *****






Mounted lower on the open door:



I think I like this location the best - the display is bright and very readable:

 

I got another bottle in the mail today - another 15 lb NX aluminum bottle for a good price. I want to retire at least one of the old steel bottles. Came with an old-style valve, so I'm putting in one of the new NX super hi-flow valves.




I did just like YellowBullet said - put the wrench on the valve, smack with a hammer to knock it loose, then unscrew it. Turned out to be easy to do. BIG wrench - from HF...



The siphon tube got much bigger on the newest NX valve..



The new valve screwed right in - there is an O-ring on the valve and a groove for the O-ring machined into the bottle, so everything went back together nicely.





One more thing after assembly and installation of the blowoff valve - pressure-testing the assembly. I connected the new NX combo to another full bottle and opened the valve - the empty bottle took about 1 1/2 lb of nitrous quickly, so I turned off the valves, disconnected everything, and weighed the new bottle, and it was heavier - by 1 1/2 lb - I weighed it. I'll let it sit for a day and then weigh it again. One down, and the next empty bottle gets the second valve.



Got cold quickly...

 

that car is one big gadget, lol

 

Yup, it seems that way to me sometimes - but I can now see readings on most of what's going on without looking down for little gauges mounted in the dash. The iPad will give me the OBD2 gauges that I want, so that should help a bunch. I still need actual nitrous pressure and individual EGT gauges, but not today.

 

1. The new bottle is still holding the original weight, so that means no leaks. A lb of nitrous generates as much pressure as 15 lb, so no leaks for sure.

2. I just received a larger NX fuel solenoid - 15301L - which has a pass-thru of .310 in diameter. Brand new and super cheap and direct physical/electrical swap for the 15201L, so one less bottleneck for fuel delivery when I install it. I put the AN connectors in the solenoid tonight.

3. The PLX OBD2 module is due to arrive tomorrow, but I gotta go out of town for a few hours, so I'll leave it up to my wife to hook up. Actually no, I'm taking my iPad...

4. I've been working on the new "bogging" problem and adjusted the MAF tape to wide open, which made the car almost undriveable, so I moved the tape down a bunch (okay - 1/32") and now it jumps to the throttle like it used to. There were cops sitting over my private track last night, and a truck broken down on "my" on-ramp tonight, so I didn't get to spray. I'm going back out around 10PM and scope the roads for a chance to spray. The Maxima intake manifold must flow a lot more air than the '08 Altima UIM, because all the extra air was making the injectors deliver a lot more fuel at tip-in. The engine would stumble and cough at lower RPMs with the old Altima tape "setting", but changing that made the engine respond much better.


EDIT: I did go out to spray a bit, but I'm still having a problem with manifold backfires at lower RPMs (<5000 RPM). Once it's up on the cams, no problem. I guess I have another problem to figure out - time for some Google research. I'm kinda surprised that the manifold didn't rupture - it's loud when it pops! I'm going to order a self-resetting pop-off valve from Induction Solutions and install it on the passenger's side of the manifold, before I blow up the manifold.

 

I did find another 15 lb real NOS bottle at a good price - and it's in very nice shape, so I'll leave it alone. Heck, it's purdy.... I ordered two 6AN adapters for NOS-format outlets, with fresh gaskets, so I can hook my two NOS bottles up together in the rack.

 

I've been looking around for reasons for my nitrous-popping, and most other-forum comments mention spraying too much at too low RPM. OK - so I checked the programming on the Maximizer3 nitrous controller, and sure enough I had set it to come on very hard starting at 2750R/50% and rapidly increasing from there. What was I thinking?

Actually I was trying to deal with the changes from the Maxima manifold and overlooked whatever stupid changes I made a couple of months ago. I reset the starting throttle at 70% and 4000 RPM and scaled it up from there. Put a fresh bottle in and went for a drive. With the present MAF tape setting and the new controller program, above 3000 the car leaps when the throttle is stabbed and if I go over 4000/70% throttle it just pulls very hard with no popping drama.

I'll go back out pretty soon tonight and see if I can put everything together for a solid launch and pull thru the gears. It's still jetted to 150-shot through the six nozzles.

 

I can smell it from here..lol

 

Awesome news! Glad it was something simple!

You should see if you can take some in car video next time you test the shark

 

Yes, the later testing last night was promising. Power-brake at 3000, let off the throttle back to 2K, jab the throttle up to maybe 50% to jump off the line and roll into WOT after 4K, keep it at WOT and let 'er eat! I changed the spray cutoff to 6500 so now I spray during shifts. That's exciting. I ran out of road very quickly so never got into 4th gear, but everything felt good. I really need to get an exhaust cutout put on the passenger side so I can open the headers again, since the new E85 fuel lines had to go in front of my existing cutout.

You're going to make me buy a GoPro, aren't you? Trouble is, that's one more thing in the cabin to worry about.... I dunno.

 

It would be pretty awesome to see some GoPro footage of your car!
That will definitely be a lot of gadgets to look after though haha

 

Yeah, it looks kinda stupid, but I can see all the important stuff without doing any more than glancing to one side, so that's good. I just ordered some parts from Speedway Motors in Lincoln NE for some 3" tubing to extend and 45-degree my existing cutout. I'll wrap it in super-hi-temp insulation and use stainless band ties to hold the insulation in place. This will divert the existing cutout toward the rear about 6-10" and still have a 3" exit with 3-bolt cap plate. This way I get an open exhaust and won't melt my 1/2" ethanol fuel hard lines and hoses. I had to think about this for a while, with with enough 3" tubing and block-off plates and a welder, I figure I can do this right.

Very important for a standing mile, you know.

I'm still working with the iPar/PLX electronic dash project, but so far no luck. The iPad software will not link up with the PLX Wifi. The logs say no device database so maybe the software company can fix this.

Frankly, I like the ECUTalk Consult program the best, but it's PC based. If I could just come up with some way to patch another large and bright screen into my little HP notebook and keep the keyboard out of sight, I'll do that instead.

 

I had ordered some 3" tubing from Speedway Motors on Sunday and the order arrived on Tuesday. I want to be able to open my 3" header cutout again - and NOT roast the 1/2" fuel plumbing for the E85. I got a couple of chunks of 3" tubing and some insulation and stainless ties. This afternoon (since I took of 3 days for the 4th) I decided to install everything I could. Pix follow - this worked out pretty well.

3" Kickout tubing and 3" flange, cut off a 3" header outlet.








Trial fit:



Extra piece to attach:





Scrap welded on:


Wrapped up:





Outlet re-capped and fuel lines insulated:


Video of the startup:

http://s48.photobucket.com/user/hwb1...6452b.mp4.html

 

does the cutout extension clear the ground, not sure how low your car is