Impressive work. I like it. When is it going on?

 

Thanks.... I still have things to do:

1. Coat the LIM with VHF header paint and bake it a few times.

2. Fuel rails - because of the goofy mounting, probably more aluminum welding needed.

3. Update the fuel lines and replace the screw clamps w/6AN lines.

4. Order some 3" silicone tubing bends for the air intake path. The TB is about 2" further out from the UIM, so something different is required.

5. And I'll have to port out the Cosworth intake ports for the new injector placement.

Not quite there yet.....

 

Was it hard to get the LIM gasket ports to line up?

Just out of curiosity, did you need any additional reinforcement on the cable bracket bracket? It looks like the assembly is riding on only 2 of those flimsy plastic threaded screws.

 

Those gaskets are easy to modify, but it's going to take something clever to hold them in exact position during assembly. Possibly a hole in the gasket and a small short pin located in the head, two for each gasket.

The cable bracket is 6061 aluminum, so it won't bend. The torque on the bracket will pull it directly toward the TB, and those screws are in deep - about 1/2". I also intend to weld the two pieces together once I have them pinned with a couple of screws. That should hold it. Remember that the plate is also welded to the TB extension tube...

I've been working on welding a couple of nozzle bungs on a piece of aluminum, so I can mount six of these plates on the manifold runners. I also used a Dremel plastic cutting wheel and removed three of the upright posts on the UIM. That plastic flows easily when heated. This is going to be complicated - surprise!

 

I'll be using the gasket to portmatch the heads to the upper so I'm hoping to carefully cut the bolt hole slots in a way so it sits perfectly centered unassisted to make life waaay easier during all the repeated checks - little RTV could hold them in place during assembly . . . ahh ok I see how the pressure on those screws wouldn't be a problem with the other weldpoint, smooth.

If you've got another 250 to burn before you get the ports in, I heard through the grapevine that the maxima upper is different and supports more cfm, the plenum is a little more bulbous if you look closely, pretty sure the LIM and ports are identical (the gaskets are) so I assume the plenum is the only difference. Could be an easily swappable upgrade later on.

 

Oooohhh.... tell me more about your sources on the Maxima manifold!

EDIT: I found this comment online:


In refining the award-winning VQ-series V6 for use in the new Maxima, engine development engineers focused on three areas - increasing air intake, increasing fuel burn efficiency and lowering exhaust backpressure. Steps utilized to improve air intake included increasing intake manifold collector port diameter, adding a second power valve in the intake manifold, changing intake collector material to resin for less mass and more flow, redesigning the shape of the intake valves and increasing the throttle chamber diameter. Fuel burn efficiency was improved by increasing the engine's compression ratio to 10.6:1 (from 10.3:1), changing the piston shape for reduction of friction and weight, and adding exhaust-side continuous valve timing control (quad valve timing system). Exhaust backpressure was reduced through optimizing the exhaust system layout.

Hmmm.. I found a used one for $175.....

 

!!!??

>70mm?

 

Yes, I saw that and wondered ??? If I buy one and the TB opening measures out much larger than 71mm, then it's time for a bigger TB - and a complete rebuild on my fresh TB adapter with larger tubing. The learning curve is getting pretty steep for this project....

 

What makes you think they are comparing this to the Altima VQ? That bolded part clearly makes me think they are just talking about the 02-08 Max engine with the alu manifold.

 

I'm not making any assumptions here - but bamboomerang had a conversation with a VQ engine builder who claimed to be familiar with the new intakes, and he said that the Maxima manifold was larger inside. "bam" would have to add any further details...

What does make me think that there may be differences in the Altima and Maxima resin intakes is that Courtesy has two different SKU numbers and prices for those manifolds, and the Maxima cost was higher. The Altima is 14010-L32001 for $217 and the maxima is 14010-A35001 for $250. Of course they might just be different colors...

 

^^ I posted pics earlier in the thread comparing the two (max/alt) intake manifolds - they are visually different from the outside - which was further confirmed from a different angle by pictures of a maxima engine for sale on Ebay that Harold found. So with that info, and brief confirmation from a third party, we deduced they were atleast different - notably the plenum (altima is flat, maxima is bulbous/muscular - with a different engine cover that works around characteristics of the plenum in each case)

I agree that the quote is comparing it to the older VQ's, not the altima engine (adding a second powervalve gives this away). Whats of interest is the TB size. We know for a fact the 07+ altima TB port diameter is the same as is it is on the older VQ's (the opening on the plenum on my parts is even a little smaller +/- 0.5mm) - so with regards to the new maxima/altima UIM's, if the maxima plenum is different/larger, can we give the mention of TB diameter increase in that quote any merit. This is relevant because the thickness of the plenums TB opening is one of the main drawbacks on this intake.

Trusting the FSM, the CR in an 04 FWD DE is 10:1 - but the Z/G DE guys claim 10.3 like in the quote - I can't confirm if that is true or not. The new maxima is 10.6, but the new altima is 10.3 (it's the same pistons/heads/rods AFAIK among the two engines, the difference in CR comes from the throw of the crank). My guess is they originally pursued this intake design for the maxima in support of its higher CR, and then the altima simply got a watered down version of the UIM to support the lower CR while using the older DE crank. Glad to know the term 'maxima' still means something.

 

Gotcha, makes sense. I have not seen the two manifolds in person but this sounds good. It would make sense for nissan improve the manifold.

 

This afternoon I finished up the "welding" on the TB support, came up with a way to port the head ports with a Dremel cutter, and also figured out how to hold the modified LIM gaskets to the LIM for assembly. I also found a neat way to put a connector on my 6AN stainless fuel lines. Photos will take several replies. The Dremel cutter works really well on aluminum.... All porting work was done on my busted nitrous 3.5.

Oh yeah, I just ordered a set of 350Z OBX fuel rails so I can have a set ready to mount in my car, when I install this 07VI manifold project.

 

The original injector alignment:



After porting:



Modified gasket alignment:


Another part of the gasket that requires trimming:


Glue and tape to hold the LIM gasket on the manifold:

 

This is a Fragola adapter to slip over a stainless 6AN hose to clamp onto a connector:






This will keep hoses better attached to my push-on connectors for fuel lines...

 

looking good , havent check in this thread in awhile...

some advice, anyone thats trying to put headgasket or lower manifold gasket.

( spray glue works great to hold it in place and it acts like a silicone base )


becareful with those OBX fuel rails, I had one customer came in and one side of the injectors didnt line up with the LIM

we end up making a new fuel rail for the customer and had him return it to ebay

 

I was actually using a little Permabond goo from a tube, with four dabs on the LIM surface. Since these gaskets have three layers of "steel" that are riveted together and a raised lip around the port, the adhesive won't get in the way. Good idea about the spray glue - I have used 3M in the past.

It was either the OBX or Cosworth fuel rails from eBay, so I went with the cheaper OBX - from a reputable eBay seller. I wanted to leave my Autogear rails on the engine until I'm ready to install. I'm pretty sure that any rail will have to be customized where it mounts on the LIM, since dimensions are a lot different between LIMs... "it's always something"

 

its always something but thats why we do this, because we love the challenge

the spray glue is a trade secert from my boss , aleast now I dont have to fiddle with the H/G to stay in place

 

My new OBX 350Z fuel rails came today, so I stuck some injectors in them and did some test fitting on the LIM.... I need to cut out the factory tabs to mount on the LIM, but not a bad fit. I also took a couple of shots down into the ports, where you can see where the stock 3.5 head ports would have to be ported to match. My Cosworth heads are already a close match.







I have marked where I'm going to cut the mounting tabs:








Getting closer to the installation - the temperature has been in the 40s, too cool to paint the LIM, but by this weekend, I can do that.

 

Man the shape of those ports are VERY interesting.

Is it me, or are each of the ports different? 1 and 5 look the same. 2 and 4 look the same. 3 and 6 are different from the rest. This makes me think they did some real flow testing on each individual cylinder since that was a problem on all forms of the VQ35; so now with this new IM, each cyl will achieve the same AFR.

 

You're right - each LIM port is different, and exactly matches the UIM port as well. Generally the three forward and three back ports have the same general shape, but each is unique when viewed directly. I'm hoping that all that design work makes for a better intake system - no to mention I'm going to a lot of work to install the manifolds.

Funny thing is that, if I've covered all the installation details, it won't take very long to do another one - especially if the 07-08 fuel rails are used. The custom TB work would take the longest to duplicate, but I wanted the TB to "be the best that it can be" so I hacked on it for the larger bore and 100% opening features. Using a stock one would be faster.

Still unresolved is the air path from filter to TB - and my solution will be unique to my setup, but there's other ways to do that. This is actually getting close to completion - just insulating the LIM is left, I think, after the fuel rails have been mounted.

 

Time to put some insulation on the LIM - so I chose flat-black VHT Very High Temperature Paint, rated at 1300*-2000* F. I taped over all ports first, then hung the manifold from a strong bent wire, then gradually applied the entire can in layers and let dry overnight. The paint needs to be cured in three stages, so I warmed up the gas grill, installed a grill thermometer, then followed the instructions on the can to heat the paint to 250*F for 30 min., cool for 30 min., heat to 400*F for 30 min., cool for 30 min., then a final heating to 600*F for 30 min and let cool slowly to room temp.

Hmmmm... I wonder if the grill would work for powder-coating small items?










All done and ready for the next step - fitting the fuel rails:

 

Great work, like always!

 

Looking good!

 

Thanks, guys... the saga continues. I did some work on the OBX rails - it seems that the opening between the injector socket and the main fuel tunnel were cut with some kind of grinder - and badly done, with a couple just barely opened up - so I used my grinder and opened up all of them.

Before:


After:


Grinder:


Then I ground out some of the bolt holes in the fuel rail tabs, and everything just bolted up.

 

I mounted the UIM on the LIM with the fuel rails attached, and took these pix:









And the altered blockoff plate for the other side:







I'm getting closer - just waiting on a few plumbing parts..

 

Nice progress!

 

Yeah, it's a grilled LIM with a side of rails..... yummy!

 

I like it. I just wonder how this im will respond w/o the 2 valves

 

Heck, I'm only concerned with life above 3500 RPM anyway - and the SSIM seems to do just fine without its valve. I know how the car pulls now, and I'll have to make my own comparision. Of course, there is only one way to really find out - about mid-May will be installation time. Then I can complete the EU installation and head for the dyno.

 

Yea sounds good. I too think no valves will only help top end, but this dual valve setup I have yet to see a cutout diagram of.

 

Seems like time for an update here.... I had mid-May for the installation target, May 13-16 at this point, but I'm still struggling with a gasket problem. I used Permabond contact cement to stick both modified gaskets onto the manifold, then mounted the manifold back on the test engine. The next day, when I tried to remove it, it was stuck to the heads and hung up on the mounting studs - getting it off was hard. Turned out that the glue wasn't dry enough, even after 24 hours, and glue was squeezed out under pressure. I removed the gaskets from the manifold, cleaned off everything, then ground the head off the two brass rivets that hold the 3-layer gasket together. I'm going to use just one layer on each side. The next thing is to try to use industrial CA glue to attach each single layer gasket to the manifold. All this is because I need to grind out the OEM holes in the gasket to fit over the old 3.5 bolts and studs locations. I need to attach the gaskets to the manifold so I can mount the manifold on the real engine and spray the ports to mark the port openings for a final head porting.

I'm also waiting on another 90 degree hose, this one 3 1/8" (80mm) to fit over the Pathy TB intake (76mm too small), some -6AN x 1/2"NPT adapters for the fuel rails, and Summit sent me 10' of -4AN Earl's hose instead of the -6AN hose I ordered - but they sent out the correct tubing the same night I called about the error. Great service.

"it's always something"


EDIT: I attached a link to the reason I'm going to 0W-40 Mobil1 oil in the LandShark - an interesting read:


http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oi...nst_oils.shtml

.

 

All I see is that Amsoil is the best

Funny that is what I use

Seems old, but if you want a good/great 40w, look at the Rotella 5w-40 synthetic; they turn out GREAT UOA's. If you want a 30w, nothing beats Amsoil SSO.

The best thing about the Rotella is that you can find it locally, cheap.

 

You're missing the point - the 0W-40 Mobil1 produced the most power on a dyno of any of the listed oils - and since I change oil every 100 miles or so, all those fancy wear indicators don't matter to me. "0" weight oils are proven to have less friction where it matters - on the dyno. Oh, and I paid $7.88/qt at the local NAPA store for this European Porche and BMW approved high performance oil for their cars. Amsoil isn't in that list - is it?. ??

Besides, isn't Rotella what you mix with Velveeta cheese to make con queso? Something like that, anyway.... Viva Cinco de Mayo !

 

lol gotcha, didn't know you changed the oil so often.

 

I've been working on the LIM some more, and figured out how to make the process much simpler. I got a couple more new LIM gaskets for experimentation. Just grind off the little brass rivets and separate the three layers(I known, I already said this) then lay one section on the LIM ports and mark the enlarged bolt holes, then use good snips to cut the gasket up to the upper part of each hole, including the end holes. In my case, I used the Satellite City accelerator on the gasket side facing the LIM, center everything, then lay the gasket on the LIM carefully and hold it down in the middle with one hand, then raise up just one end and put some CA on the manifold and press it down with another finger. Wait about 15 seconds, then lift up the gasket and put some glue around the next bolt hole and repeat through all four holes. Fast, neat, and precise.

New LandShark decal...

 

Then I took my old manifold and nitrous parts off the engine this afternoon.
You are looking down the Cosworth intake ports...






Then I mounted the new LIM for measurements:




Gagged with towels:


Funny thing:




The LIM ports are still about 1mm wider than the Cosworth ports - "some assembly required"

 

I've got the dual-stage nitrous nozzles figured out. I'll mount a 1/4" piece of ABS Kydex on the lower lip of the UIM, then drill and tap 12 holes for two pairs of 90* fogger nozzles.





The nitrous will be more complicated.

When it's all done, I hope it looks like this:

We saw this GTR at KCIR a couple of weekends ago. Awesome.

Tomorrow I'll try and finish the manifold installation.

 

I finished mounting the strip for the nitrous nozzle strip - and test-mounted the new UIM for the first time, and everything clears - and the cables mount up correctly, too.Yea! I filled the manifold/strip gaps with black silicone RTV.



The UIM is bolted on the LIM with a couple of bolts, and the LIM is also bolted down for this test.












Wow - so far, so good. Trouble is that the temps are in the 40s today, spitting rain and gusty winds, so this project may have to wait a day or two. I'm not porting heads outside in this weather.

 

I'd be building up confidence shaving my nuts with a rusty machete before porting those heads.