Should I shave this trunk spoiler?
09-19-2011, 06:43 PM
#1
Should I shave this trunk spoiler?
Almost a year ago I installed an aftermarket spoiler I baught off ebay for less than $100.
After painting this aftermarket spoiler I had to drill new holes to mount the outside pedestals. Eleven months after installing this spoiler rust is collecting on the trunk again. Shading our level trunks those spoilers sure do cause rust.
About a month ago I was going to repaint the entire car after doing some body work. After spraying the Deep Evergreen paint on the hood I said 'WTF am i doing'! Why am I repainting this car a color I never seemed to like
.
I sanded the hood 3 days later then went and baught a black basecoat urethane paint. With the deep evergreen being close to black it won't take much volume to overlap it.
The other day I shaved that power antenna I don't need. I get good FM reception with the bose windshield antenna and I've had to replace that antenna rod 3 times. The drain hose in that power antenna also caused bubbles in the right quarter.
I also debadged both trunk eblems. I was thinking of shaving the trunk key but I'll have no way of reaching that jumper cable if my battery drains.
Shaving that spoiler won't take much work beacuse I'll be repainting the trunk. I'll just need to mount a 3rd brake light behind the rear windshield.
Should I bother remounting this spoiler? Our spoilers are sure known to cause rust.
After painting this aftermarket spoiler I had to drill new holes to mount the outside pedestals. Eleven months after installing this spoiler rust is collecting on the trunk again. Shading our level trunks those spoilers sure do cause rust.
About a month ago I was going to repaint the entire car after doing some body work. After spraying the Deep Evergreen paint on the hood I said 'WTF am i doing'! Why am I repainting this car a color I never seemed to like
. I sanded the hood 3 days later then went and baught a black basecoat urethane paint. With the deep evergreen being close to black it won't take much volume to overlap it.
The other day I shaved that power antenna I don't need. I get good FM reception with the bose windshield antenna and I've had to replace that antenna rod 3 times. The drain hose in that power antenna also caused bubbles in the right quarter.
I also debadged both trunk eblems. I was thinking of shaving the trunk key but I'll have no way of reaching that jumper cable if my battery drains.
Shaving that spoiler won't take much work beacuse I'll be repainting the trunk. I'll just need to mount a 3rd brake light behind the rear windshield.
Should I bother remounting this spoiler? Our spoilers are sure known to cause rust.
Last edited by jholley; 09-21-2011 at 06:37 AM.
09-19-2011, 09:30 PM
#2
It's all personal preference. But if rust is a recurring problem, then I'd say get rid of the spoiler. I like the idea of debadging. If you want to shave the trunk key, and want a way to open the trunk if the battery is dead, try to add a pull cable on the trunk latch. you could position the handle of the pull cable in the trunk by the rear seat reach through.
09-20-2011, 03:00 PM
#8
i also had the same problem with my spoiler.. the previous owner put them on.. What i did was take off the spoiler.. (redid the LEDs while i was at it) sanded the area a little and hit it with some paint and made new gaskets for the the spoiler to sit on.. while i was at it i changed the bolts to stainless steel since i saw most of the rust came from the bolt contact points.
09-20-2011, 04:31 PM
#9
The rust is collecting on the trunk right next to the right inner pedestal. It is only the size of a dime but there are bubbles behind it. I'm going to keep the spoiler but this time do a better body job. With the spoiler removed I'll sand it down to metal then spray layers of rust converter instead of black primer. After painting it I'll then add extra layers of clearcoat.
I'm going to shave the trunk lock. I wrapped fuel cable around the top end of the remote latch then laid the cable along the right side of the trunk. I now have to tie it onto a handle then mount it somewhere near the backseat opening.
I tried removing the trunk lock but I couldn't get it off. I slid the clip out but couldn't go from there. If anyone knows how to remove that trunk lock then lets hear it.
EDIT:
I dug up this 9 year old post and found that I first need to remove the latch, and then the rod connecting the lock to the latch. If I can get it off I'll fill up the hole tomorrow.
I'm going to shave the trunk lock. I wrapped fuel cable around the top end of the remote latch then laid the cable along the right side of the trunk. I now have to tie it onto a handle then mount it somewhere near the backseat opening.
I tried removing the trunk lock but I couldn't get it off. I slid the clip out but couldn't go from there. If anyone knows how to remove that trunk lock then lets hear it.
EDIT:
I dug up this 9 year old post and found that I first need to remove the latch, and then the rod connecting the lock to the latch. If I can get it off I'll fill up the hole tomorrow.
i took off my lock before, its kinda a b**** when u have to figure it out on your own. Anyway to remove you need to also reomve teh latch mechanism on the trunk lid. Take off the carpet first obviously adn the plastic cover covering the latch. Reomve to two 10mm hex bolts and then the third one which is in the center of the latch system. Look behind there should be a thin rod of which you have to unhook from the latch(where the latch meets the yellow plastic) You want to remove the rod from the yellow, NOT THE YELLOW FROM THE LATCH, you might need some pliers. If all is well you should have removed the rod(which has an "L" shape to the end of it) and now that part is free. This is the hardest part of the whole thing.
Next you want to look behind the actuall keyhole area. When u loo back there, there should be a 2 prong fork looking thing which is keeping the keyhole in place. You should be able to move it about 40 degrees in up or down. This is what u need to remove to get you key mechanism free. Basically all u need to do it lift the prongs near the tips and pull(im sure you'll figure it out). U need to apply some force to get it out tho, is doesnt just slide off. Once that is free you can take the entire thing out with the rod and sand, paint whatever you want to do.
When ur done it is most likly that u bent the prong in which case u might have to bend it a little bit to make the key mechanism sit tight again. Once that part is in slip the "L" part back on and the rest of the screws and you all set. Hope this helped
Next you want to look behind the actuall keyhole area. When u loo back there, there should be a 2 prong fork looking thing which is keeping the keyhole in place. You should be able to move it about 40 degrees in up or down. This is what u need to remove to get you key mechanism free. Basically all u need to do it lift the prongs near the tips and pull(im sure you'll figure it out). U need to apply some force to get it out tho, is doesnt just slide off. Once that is free you can take the entire thing out with the rod and sand, paint whatever you want to do.
When ur done it is most likly that u bent the prong in which case u might have to bend it a little bit to make the key mechanism sit tight again. Once that part is in slip the "L" part back on and the rest of the screws and you all set. Hope this helped
Last edited by jholley; 09-21-2011 at 06:32 AM.
09-20-2011, 04:46 PM
#10
I myself am contemplating the no spoiler move. I saw a dude in traffic that had about the same drop as me. His car looked lower because of the shaved trunk. I don't like people looking lower than me.
09-20-2011, 08:03 PM
#12
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 9
so, some dumbass kid at sonic decided to sit on my trunk, which i have the stock wing. and popped the wing out of this rivits or whatever you wanna call it. but now i need to know how to get it back in and make it flush again. anyone else have this problem? please let me know how to fix it
09-21-2011, 04:38 PM
#13
I loosened the bolts on the pedestal were it collected rust and bubbles. The gasket somehow split and allowed water to drip thru the hole in the trunk that the bolt slides thru. I might of tighened it too much last October when I installed it. The remaining 3 pedestals were snug with their gaskets. After sanding I'll spray it with rust converter and take more care when mounting the pedestals this time. I may try adding on some thick hand-made rubber gaskets.
I got the trunk lock off tonight. I'll fill it up and prime it tomorrow. After that I'll post a picture of this shaved trunk and right quarter.
I got the trunk lock off tonight. I'll fill it up and prime it tomorrow. After that I'll post a picture of this shaved trunk and right quarter.
Last edited by jholley; 09-22-2011 at 08:56 AM.
09-24-2011, 05:44 PM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Phx, Arizona
Posts: 20
09-24-2011, 07:32 PM
#17
The inner pedestal bolt holes line up but the outer pedestal clip holes don't. The outer pedestals mount in the same location but the holes were 1" off so you'll need to drill 4 new holes then throw filler in the 4 original holes. You won't need to do any painting to mount this spoiler unless your trunk is already rusted. The outer pedestals mount with bolts instead of clips so you'll also need to drill open some of the inner section of the trunk lid to throw nuts on those bolts.
Last edited by jholley; 09-24-2011 at 08:50 PM.
10-19-2011, 07:23 PM
#18
The rear section now only contains the plate and tail lights. I might put the spoiler back on next weekend.
Here's the handle to the housing cable I inserted. If the battery ever drains I just need to pull that cable to release the trunk latch.
That red wire you see going thru the seat are jumper wires I spliced onto the 3rd brake light wires in the rear harness. I have inspection this month so I took the 3rd brake light off the OEM spoiler and threw it in back of the rear window. A state trooper friend of mine told me to trash it after inspection and don't bother inserting a permanent one. He said I'll never get pulled over for not having a 3rd brake light.
If anyone ever wants to install a trunk release cable then buy the Bell Bikefix Cable Set. I used the 6' long rear gear cable. It only cost $5 at walmart.
Last edited by jholley; 10-19-2011 at 07:35 PM.
10-19-2011, 09:04 PM
#19
call me crazy, but i'd rather leave all my $hit on the trunklid and call it a day. i like the oem look and cant see wasting my time shaving and filling, etc. if you like it than kudos to you brother!! 
10-19-2011, 09:55 PM
#20
10-19-2011, 11:27 PM
#21
To each their own. I personally love the shaved look. I plan to shave a lot more on my Maxima. Door bumpers, spoiler, radio antenna hole and trunk key hole. I love to keep people guessing on what my car is. A lot of people think it's a Galant until they see the Hamburger on the front and realize it isn't a Mitsubishi.
10-19-2011, 11:58 PM
#22
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Central Cali
Posts: 49
I've got a question for the OP. Why do ou need the cable with handle at all? You have the same car as me and we have the push button in the drivers side door to pop the trunk, plus the key chain has an auto open button. Shave the key lock down makes o difference.
Or am I missing something?
Or am I missing something?
10-20-2011, 03:29 AM
#23
I've got a question for the OP. Why do ou need the cable with handle at all? You have the same car as me and we have the push button in the drivers side door to pop the trunk, plus the key chain has an auto open button. Shave the key lock down makes o difference.
Or am I missing something?
Or am I missing something?
10-20-2011, 10:22 AM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Central Cali
Posts: 49
10-20-2011, 12:43 PM
#26
I'm actually saving time by not remounting the maxima and hamburger emblems. In case you don't know but to paint the trunk you have to remove those emblems.
10-20-2011, 12:53 PM
#27
To each their own. I personally love the shaved look. I plan to shave a lot more on my Maxima. Door bumpers, spoiler, radio antenna hole and trunk key hole. I love to keep people guessing on what my car is. A lot of people think it's a Galant until they see the Hamburger on the front and realize it isn't a Mitsubishi.
I gave it thoughts to shave the door moldings but backed out on it. The moldings have 3/4" indents that would first require welding, grinding, body filling...
10-20-2011, 11:33 PM
#28
As already stated 'To each their own'. IMO the rear section looks much slicker shaved. I'm in the process of bodying and repainting the entitre car so shaving that useless junk didn't require much more time. I painted the hood, fenders, and doors last week and will be finishing it off within the next week. If I was in your shoes and had to pay a mechanic thousands of dollars to do this then I wouldn't bother.
I'm actually saving time by not remounting the maxima and hamburger emblems. In case you don't know but to paint the trunk you have to remove those emblems.
I'm actually saving time by not remounting the maxima and hamburger emblems. In case you don't know but to paint the trunk you have to remove those emblems.
no, i thought they painted around them....
10-21-2011, 12:33 AM
#29
Some car emblems are much more difficult to remove over the 4th gen maxima. Even the trunk hamburger on the 5th gen requires doing body work because it leaves holes from how the emblem is mounted. Some people opt to paint over them. I see it done a lot on Honda's.
Last edited by infinimax96; 10-21-2011 at 12:38 AM.
10-21-2011, 07:09 AM
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Central Cali
Posts: 49
And I prefer the car sans spoiler. Spoilers are useless at the speeds we drive. More form over function.
Last edited by Mac.World; 10-21-2011 at 08:23 AM.
10-21-2011, 05:59 PM
#32
After sanding the lid I'll be filling up those holes using a mig welder. After grinding the weldings down I'll level it out with body filler.
If you don't have a welder you can use fiber & body filler for the inner holes. From inside the trunk lid you can throw fiber over those holes then lay body filler on the outside. The outer pedestal holes are very hard to reach from the inside so welding is the only way I see to fill them.
If you don't have a welder you can use fiber & body filler for the inner holes. From inside the trunk lid you can throw fiber over those holes then lay body filler on the outside. The outer pedestal holes are very hard to reach from the inside so welding is the only way I see to fill them.
10-21-2011, 06:31 PM
#34
10-21-2011, 07:07 PM
#35
im talking about these kind here. used for filling in access holes for bolts and such on door shells and throughout the car. the size of the holes in our decklid are a pretty universal size and they fit very snug.
04-20-2015, 07:36 AM
#36
That aftermarket air spoiler on the trunk held fine but just like the OEM air spoiler rust collected on the inner pedestals. I obviously didn't shave off enough rust when I installed that spoiler 5 years ago.
Four years ago I shaved that air spoiler and repainted the entire car black.
Last week I mounted a trunk lip spoiler I ordered on ebay.
As seen I also mounted the LED brake light from the OEM air spoiler onto the top of the rear windshield. I also shaved off the trunk key cylinder, trunk emblems, power antenna... I get much better reception with the ribbon cable I replaced for that power antenna. She looks slicker with all that crap removed.
Four years ago I shaved that air spoiler and repainted the entire car black.
Last week I mounted a trunk lip spoiler I ordered on ebay.
As seen I also mounted the LED brake light from the OEM air spoiler onto the top of the rear windshield. I also shaved off the trunk key cylinder, trunk emblems, power antenna... I get much better reception with the ribbon cable I replaced for that power antenna. She looks slicker with all that crap removed.
Last edited by jholley; 04-20-2015 at 02:52 PM.
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