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So i have considered upgrading the intake side of the motor to have a considerable bump in power. The mod list goes as pathfinder tb, cai, and bigger maf housing so far. My only worry is that i will lose my low end grunt with the open set up because of the loss of intake velocity. So i wish to rid of the lower tq loss and keep the overall power gained. I have had a similar situation with my acura cl when i slapped a cai on it. it strained from redlights but revved happily up high. To fix this i grabbed an OEM 1.4 inch Intake manifold spacer from a honda pilot and olaced it on my car. my hood needed a hack job to fit the manni. Off the bat i noticed the idle was a tad bit deeper in tone. the initial lag that i had was now gone completely and it would even break traction easier. I did the mod to a 01 acura cl 3.2 but there were 5hp and 10tq gains on the 3.0 used in the dyno sheets i have. ill link them later.
So heres what in getting at, if we have the clearence, i wish to make a 1-1.5 inch im spacer to see if it would have any benefit for these cars being there so sensitive to intake mods. By extending the runners with the spacer i will be lowering the useable power band to the lower rpms and the other supporting mods will add further breathability. Does anyone know the normal hood clearance on a stock 00 maxima? and are there any good metal intake manifold out there to swap on? ill be porting it and then making the spacer to match the ports to have a nice and even powerband. This doesnt work like a tb spacer, it modifies the valves pulse tuning.
I saw those spacers but it's not big enough to my liking. I've seen the the threads regarding findings behind past mods and it's impressive. My plan was to buy some phenolis material and made my own spacer by hand. While I was at it I wanted to make it as tall as possible to move the power band a little lower. I don't see redline often to more tq is always nice. Later on down the road I'll be obtaining a spare lower Mani. You of anyone would know, what manifold choices do I have? I know the plastic is the best but I plan on acid porting the lower runners and possibly the metal manifold from an older pathfinder or max. I know the pathfinder has a rwd intake set up but I don't mind a little hack job.
I saw those spacers but it's not big enough to my liking. I've seen the the threads regarding findings behind past mods and it's impressive. My plan was to buy some phenolis material and made my own spacer by hand. While I was at it I wanted to make it as tall as possible to move the power band a little lower. I don't see redline often to more tq is always nice. Later on down the road I'll be obtaining a spare lower Mani. You of anyone would know, what manifold choices do I have? I know the plastic is the best but I plan on acid porting the lower runners and possibly the metal manifold from an older pathfinder or max. I know the pathfinder has a rwd intake set up but I don't mind a little hack job.
Do keep in mind that the NWP spacers add volume in 4 different areas as to not protrude too high for hood clearance. (LIM/UIM mating, elbow to UIM mating, and TB mating)
To be honest though, what is currently on the earlier gen FWD VQ35DE is pretty much going to be the epitome of torque for your vehicle. Most if not all other VQ35 IM’s (mostly RWD sans the PF) are built for the right end the tach. Even the 1st gen VQ35 RWD IM was built nicely, which is a true dual runner set-up. The current as well, but, yeah hack that up might not be the best.
Sounds like a fairly easy project though to begin with, just do some light porting but even porting usually only adds minimal if anything again to the right side of the tach. Maybe just add/fab a spacer as big as possible. You also always have the option of slightly modifying the torque and engine mounts to sit a bit lower and then you gain more throat from your IM and hood, I’m assuming you don’t have an FSTB since that would impede things and isn’t as helpful as most think it is.
If you wanted to get real creative with your “sorta” current set-up then the 07-08 FWD Maxima manifold is composite as well, same as our earlier models but composite and not metal. As far as all that is concerned you may want to begin playing with the VIAS set-point vs getting to hacky with it.
There’s this too if you haven’t seen it:
Looks as if the graphs are gone, but I might have those DRF’s at home sometime, but even though the peak numbers were close, the curves were insanely different. https://maxima.org/forums/all-motor/...md-spacer.html
See, this IM is built for torque, the low side is VIAS off, high side is VIAS on and functioning as it should, low side typically represents single stage IM's found in RWD VQ's.
This was the kind of info i was looking for. So will the older vq35de manifolds just bolt on or are there any port matching or egr line up related issues i have to sort out? ill have to measure the lenth of the runners on both manifolds to compare. if the vq35de manifolds runners is longer, i wont have to make as big of a spacer. if its up to 2" longer i may not have to make a spacer at all, but i could get the spacer kit thats available to reduce heat soak while keeping hood clearence. my goal is to build the intake from the mani up. i wont touch the maf and before it until i get a way to tune.
This was the kind of info i was looking for. So will the older vq35de manifolds just bolt on or are there any port matching or egr line up related issues i have to sort out? ill have to measure the lenth of the runners on both manifolds to compare. if the vq35de manifolds runners is longer, i wont have to make as big of a spacer. if its up to 2" longer i may not have to make a spacer at all, but i could get the spacer kit thats available to reduce heat soak while keeping hood clearence. my goal is to build the intake from the mani up. i wont touch the maf and before it until i get a way to tune.
DEK IM on a 35DE is a terrible idea ... might take me a few to find that historical thread, but the info does exist .. the 35DE is just too big to accommodate the smaller DEK IM.
I have a 00 maxima with the 3.0 in it and by older I mean from before 2000. I was curious to see if it was possible to use the manifold from a 90's vq motor or the 01 pathfinder. I just wasn't sure what would bolt up to the 5th gen 3.0 lower runners.
I have a 00 maxima with the 3.0 in it and by older I mean from before 2000. I was curious to see if it was possible to use the manifold from a 90's vq motor or the 01 pathfinder. I just wasn't sure what would bolt up to the 5th gen 3.0 lower runners.
No, that is an even worse idea. If you've seen the dyno data, you don't want that either, the DEK IM is a lot better than the USDM IM all around. I don't think I ever remember you mentioning you had an 00.
I see that testing the manni in stock form you drop alot of power before redline. That's where the acid porting comes in. If the 02 intake is metal i can block off the ports and fill it almost to the top with acid of choice and let it eat desired amount of metal. I would go for as thin and sturdy as possible. The acid would also eat the inner diameter of the plenium and runners equaly and smooth out cast imperfections. I'm curious to see how much cfm i would get from it after porting.
Moral of the story is that you can do a whole helluvalot mechanically, but unless you have the electronics optimized (fany way of saying tuning), it's basically all for nothing.
CAI behind the fender will give you a long *** pipe that will alleviate your velocity concerns. As stated in the other thread, the runners are already long, so I wouldn't increase that.
The 5.5 IM is interesting, but seems like too much effort (for just one mod by itself).
IIRC, wasn't it dandymax with the highest power 3.0? If you want N/A power out of the 3.0, I would copy his mods except try the 5.5 IM... Of course, low end will suffer, regardless
I vote supercharger
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 04-14-2016 at 09:01 PM.
CAI behind the fender will give you a long *** pipe that will alleviate your velocity concerns. As stated in the other thread, the runners are already long, so I wouldn't increase that.
The 5.5 IM is interesting, but seems like too much effort (for just one mod by itself).
IIRC, wasn't it dandymax with the highest power 3.0? If you want N/A power out of the 3.0, I would copy his mods except try the 5.5 IM... Of course, low end will suffer, regardless
I vote supercharger
Supercharger is always the way to go but I'm saving my FI orientated dollars for a supercharged 3.0 boxer swap in this Subaru I'm looking at. Launching an awd with 4xxhp and a broad torque curve will seems like a dream. I was building the max to be my "reliable" DD with some pep. What about the 5.5 intake is different from the 00vi? Is the tq loss just because of plenum size or are the runners(the one built onto the mani) just too big of a diameter or short to support the needed for lower rpms?
I was planning on getting a cai sometime next year when my dry air filter gets dirty, I just bought it and want to get some use out of it. Also does the pathfinder Tb mate up with the 5.5 Mani or it does it need some drilling to fit?
00VI is an upside down MEVI, and it’s better than it. It uses dynamic supercharging to effectively create shorter runners @ a certain RPM. It has 6 power valves, 1 for each cylinder.
The 02 IM is far different. It has 2 massive chambers and 1 power valve that separate the 2. And it opens and closes at different times vs the DEK IM that has only 1 switchover point.
00VI is an upside down MEVI, and it’s better than it. It uses dynamic supercharging to effectively create shorter runners @ a certain RPM. It has 6 power valves, 1 for each cylinder.
The 02 IM is far different. It has 2 massive chambers and 1 power valve that separate the 2. And it opens and closes at different times vs the DEK IM that has only 1 switchover point.
Stock 02IM
Power valve:
What we do:
Inverted 00VI:
As the FSM explains it.
00VI:
02-08:
Is that the 5.5 mani on that cai? and i didnt realise how intricate that other mani was. that looks like it would need a boat load of windows switches and luck to run factory intended. Are there any single stage mannis that bolt up to our runners? Knowing all this i may keep my 00iv on for a little while, or until i get the itch for mods again. I wont bother with it until i put headers and a y pipe on the car.