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So, I went over my head on this and hopefully I didn't ruin anything.
My clutch pedal was working fine on my 2000 SE 5 Speed till I did this. I was attempting to flush the old fluid from the bleeder nipple, instead of the old way of pushing the clutch pedal and open the bleeder.
I pushed the new fluid using syringe from the top bleeder and saw the old fluid rose on the reservoir and kept removing it while pumping the new one in. Got all the old dirty fluid out and proceeded with the slave cylinder bleeder nipple. Repeated the same process and got the old fluid all out.
All looked good till I found out that the clutch pedal is on the floor. The spring return is working fine but there is no pressure at all. I could move the pedal by hand all the to the floor and would stay there.
The slave cylinder shaft has no pressure resistant at all, I could move it in and out by hand. Something tells me that I have a ton of air gap on there. I tried to keep bleeding it from the bleeder nipple with no luck other than the fluid looked brand new...
What to do? pull the slave cylinder out and bench bleed them by hand. I think I have air in the system but not sure where...
you don't bleed it like brakes.
loosen the bleed so fluid pours out, tighten and push it in/out by hand until it gets hard then do the same with the master. it looks like the maxima has the tank on the master itself so it's not so bad. you need to work that air up.
you don't bleed it like brakes.
loosen the bleed so fluid pours out, tighten and push it in/out by hand until it gets hard then do the same with the master. it looks like the maxima has the tank on the master itself so it's not so bad. you need to work that air up.
When I opened the slave bleeder, nothing would come out, maybe a little trickle but not pouring out. It doesn't matter if I pump the pedal or not. If I forced feed the fluid from the slave bleeder nipple, I could see the fluid going up in the reservoir and not even a bubble there. This indicated that I have no air in the system, but the symptom said otherwise.
My guess is the extra fluid might dampen vibration giving a smoother feel.
Every time I bleed the clutch it feels terrible for a bit. You have to alternate between bleeders, it is a bit of a pain. I did mine alone and used a pole to hold the pedal down after pumping.
My guess is the extra fluid might dampen vibration giving a smoother feel.
Every time I bleed the clutch it feels terrible for a bit. You have to alternate between bleeders, it is a bit of a pain. I did mine alone and used a pole to hold the pedal down after pumping.
That may be the idea, but the morons must not have tested it, b/c you can't tell.
Originally Posted by Genes1s
Basically you made a new shorter line. Why in the world did Nissan make the maze to begin with.
B/c they hate you lol. Can't beat 30 sec bleeds with that garbage gone.
what does the stock line look like? is it just not a line?
this top bleeder comes from a corkscrew underneath which then connected to a “Y” junction box that connects the smaller line from the master and slave cylinders.
Corkscrew from the junction box to top bleeder h Top bleeder Master reservoir with another maze going down to the junction box
what does the stock line look like? is it just not a line?
Originally Posted by Genes1s
Basically you made a new shorter line. Why in the world did Nissan make the maze to begin with.
My guess is it has something to do with quickly filling and bleeding the system on the production line. Cars have had straight hydraulic clutch lines for generations with no problems. Leave it to Nissan to "fix" something that was never broken.
Get this and bypass the entire thing. I actually removed the master and slave and bench bled the entire thing. Bleeding it with a partner will be fine but I didn't have help that day. http://www.nisformance.com/One-Piece...hhoseclear.htm
I gave up bleeding this stupid thing. After about 2 qt. The lines had no bubles but had no pressure either. The fluid was clear but sort of mixed with grease or dirt, made me thinking that maybe the cylinder was on the way out too. I never had any leak externally but the clutch pedal never feel right and sometimes spongie.
Took the slave cylinder out, the seal was full of grease and there was a big spot on the piston that the coating was completely galled out to bare metal. Looks like I might need a new slave.
I then blocked the banjo bolt on the slave and tied to bleed the master with no luck as well.
So I wonder if my master cyl is also gone judging from
the fluid is still milky.
I like the stainless steel braided line straight from master to slave cyl idea. This coupled with new hardwares would be a complete upgrade, hopefully to improve the feel of the clutch. I love my M3 clutch feel, super firm but forgiving at the same time...
I gave up bleeding this stupid thing. After about 2 qt. The lines had no bubles but had no pressure either. The fluid was clear but sort of mixed with grease or dirt, made me thinking that maybe the cylinder was on the way out too. I never had any leak externally but the clutch pedal never feel right and sometimes spongie.
Took the slave cylinder out, the seal was full of grease and there was a big spot on the piston that the coating was completely galled out to bare metal. Looks like I might need a new slave.
I then blocked the banjo bolt on the slave and tied to bleed the master with no luck as well.
So I wonder if my master cyl is also gone judging from
the fluid is still milky.
I like the stainless steel braided line straight from master to slave cyl idea. This coupled with new hardwares would be a complete upgrade, hopefully to improve the feel of the clutch. I love my M3 clutch feel, super firm but forgiving at the same time...
This is all the 2001 maxima clutch lines i took off.
It's like $25-30 for a SS line i can bleed that in 3-5 minutes,i got it from a sponsor on the org. EASY
This is all the 2001 maxima clutch lines i took off.
It's like $25-30 for a SS line i can bleed that in 3-5 minutes,i got it from a sponsor on the org. EASY
Wow they looked pretty much intact.
I made a few cuts on the tubing and the whole thing was out of there in 5 minutes.
Getting the maste cylinder was tricky. The master cyl looked ok, but it was also getting tons of old grease and dirt inside.
I got a brake like tubing from Autozone instead of the braided line you guys suggested. I really need to get this wrap up in a couple of days, it’s been way too long.
It has M10 X 1 which is what the OEM fitting we’re on the master and slave junction box.
Got a new master and slave cyl as well. I’m going to mock up the line with coat hanger before to proceed with bending the real brake line tomorrow.
You do realize why I said to use NICOPP brake line, right? It's extremely malleable and doesn't corrode (easily bends by hand and doesn't kink easily). Steel brake line is a joke.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Jul 10, 2018 at 12:49 AM.
You do realize why I said to use NICOPP brake line, right? It's extremely malleable and doesn't corrode (easily bends by hand and doesn't kink easily). Steel brake line is a joke.
Didn't realize that it is a copper based, that makes sense. Ok then, I'll get this instead.
Went with Nicopp Brake line per Korn suggestion and it was a breeze. It was easier to bend as you fish it around. I basically moved and bent the line as you go along the path till it gets to the Master cylinder. It got pretty tight thru the master cylinder. I bought the 40" long line and it's about 8" too long. The 30" would probably be enough.
Bled the line in 20 minutes from dry condition. Not much difference in term of clutch feels, still suck as before but its working great now.
Next time I have to mess with any of it I might do the same. I bet it's faster to pull it all, install the new line and bleed it than bleeding the stock mess alone.
After 2 weeks dailying my E36 M everyday and now switched to this maxima, it feels absolutely weird. Everything is stiff and heavy on the M. I totally hate the steering on the Maxima especially at high speed, its got that dead spot in the middle. I think this is what I want to tackle next.
The thing with this Maxima though, I can drive the crap out of it and it won't cost me much and parts have lifetime warranty, so If it breaks it's free. With M car, you pay up front and some more.
The suspension are starting to age on this car as I put brand new KYB GR2 + Tein H sport 6 years ago roughly. I think new lower control arm bushings and new struts should restore the handling of the car. I do want to go square setup instead of staggered as the rear rubs a little.
