max'n out

Ok heres the deal, some of you know the car has been down for months from an accident, well it's been on my list of things to do to get it dyno tuned. B4 making the appt I wanted to check over things, so when I got the car back last night I looked over the AFC settings and found what I will list below.

But Basically the car is setup VERY different from the "way you are to set it" as talked about on this forum. And it ran fine like that for over half a year to a year. I never looked b4 asuming it was right.

But when I adjusted them to the "suggested" settings the car started up rough then stalled out and then woun't start.

So any Ideas? By the way when it stalled out the car tossed a code. But here is the way it was set up when running fine...

Setting:
Hi throttle
1k 2k 3k 4k 4500k 5k 6k 7k
-35% -34% -34% -34% -34% -34% -34% -34%

Lo throttle
Same rpms 0 percent across

As you can see from that it's runs rich and this is one of the resons I went looking at it.

TH Point:
25% 75%

NE Point selected as shown above

De air
THR **** %
NE1 10.0%
NE2 10.0%

ETC

Sensor type
HW 01 in 01 out

Flap 01 in 01 out
pressure 01 in 01 out

Karman can't touch

car select 6 up rightward arrow

PR graph select 760 mmhg

Ne: 6000rpm

CR + or - 3 %

Sensor check

In 1 1.2 ish V

In 2 .04 ish V

Thrt 0.25 ish V



I know this is long but I figured I'd write it all out to be sure. I know some of it is the "normal" way and some is not, but this is the way it was setup when running fine, but when adjusted by the ways suggested it stalls out.
Ideas????

Jer

iTrader: (2)

Congratulations, welcome to AFC hell. I am Jer, your AFC devil.

I've been having utter nightmares with this... can't start my car with it... I quadruple checked my wiring setup with the local dealer and their 2000 FSM to make sure... still no go.

I think you need to change some values to get the car running though, namely :

Sensor type
HW 04 in 04 out

Flap 01 in 01 out <--- don't even go into this menu, go back to Hotwire and doublecheck those settings, don't touch this.

PR graph select 760 mmhg <----- don't change

Ne: 6000rpm <---------- don't change

CR + or - 3 % <------- ditto

Also, for throttle points, I'd suggest starting with low 39% and hi 40% - that's what most people use.. just use it to start and go from there.. won't matter as much anyways.

PCGuRu2K

iTrader: (34)

Actualy it does matter. If you change it to something other then 39%/40% your ECU will reset itself after about 30 starts..

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

What do these two items refer to?

max'n out

I think you guys missed somthing.

THose settings i listed is what THE CAR DOES RUN at. When i do the suggested ones of hotwire 4 in and out, the car does not run, along with 39 and 40percent...I know these are the suggested ones and the ones that should work...AND THAT THE ONES I HAVE ARE NOT SUPPOSED TOo.

BUt it seems like my case is exactly backwards from what it should be and I wanna know why.

max'n out

It now seems that whatever code it has tossed out, is not letting the car go past about 2200 rpms either.
































o the damn headaches just don't stop, maybe I really should sell both and get the m3.

max'n out

And the AFC is not ready a afl percentage just throttle and it did read both b4.

Jer

iTrader: (2)

Stephen : I'm not sure what they're for, but I remember reading that you shouldn't play with them either : my guess is that they're for changing the MAF voltage.. but I don't know... best not to play with what one does not understand hehe

max'n'out : the sensor/engine type is HW4 as indicated in the Apex'i manual - if you don't follow the instructions there, you never know what might go to the car (esp. the fact that your car is in limp mode - that suggests your AFC is screwing up the MAF signal or something else - most likely due to the sensor type that you have chosen).

If you figure it out, let us know.. I'm having the same issue.. car just refuses to start up, however in my case I'm pretty sure it's due to my wiring being off wack - my pinout is just "different".

max'n out

I think you still missing it bro.

With the car set on hw 1...for about a year it ran fine..Rich but fine.

When I switched it last nite hw 4, this **** started.

I understand what it is suposed to be..What I don't get is why it works backwards but not the way it's supposed to be. I'm thinking that maybe something has been hooked up backwards all this time, but i can't think of what.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Hmm, that's weird. I really can't recommend more than has already been stated. Did you make sure all the wiring is correct? Did you try resetting the ecu again before starting it up? Its cool that it was running fine at your initial setting, but everywhere I go hear that its mandatory to have 4 in/4 out, low 39%, hi 40%. Sorry man, I really don't know what else to say.

-Ben

max'n out

Seee this whole mandortory thing and recomended thing bothers me, everytime I aske why nobody can answer it, theres to much "just do it this way" going one. This isn't a knock on anybody but the time to ask why is far past.

As far as what wires could be wrong I'm not sure what could even cause somthing like this.

Jer

iTrader: (2)

Just because it ran doesn't mean it ran properly. We can't disprove of it with an explanation because we didn't write the book, but the person who did obviously did so for a reason

Good luck!

max'n out

The person that set it up as proved to me over time to not be all that bright...so the reason may be he just didn't touch it. My basic point is there has to be a reason has to why it did work and now don't, it should not have to be leaned out as much as it was/is, which is one i reason i tried switching it. Theres a reason i just gotta find it.

Jer

iTrader: (2)

Good luck!

I'm concentrating on my tranny right now instead of the S-AFCII.. again. About to go downstairs to drop the pan and see what I can see... I thought my car stalled last night but then remembered it was an auto lol.

Just when I thought it was doing perfect again...maybe it isn't..

max'n out

My tranny is the most solid on the board, if I can get the car running again i'd be happy. I know sombody on here, like Kev or mardi have the answers I'm looking for.

Jer

iTrader: (2)

What didja do with it?

max'n out

Upgraded and blueprinted transaxle for extreme duty application, which includes durability upgrades, balancing of internal components, and valve body modification.

Custom axle

Custom Transaxle housing

Heavy-duty differential

Torrington bearing set

Teflon Bushing kit

Kolene direct steel

Ceramic direct clutch pads

Kevlar Bands

Billet clutch drum (high Drum)

Race sleeves

Tapered roller bearings

Ring and Pinion Gear set

Case harden torque converter input hub and fluid balanced the converter

Hardened input shaft

A Custom form of Posy- traction

New gear ratio

Grade 8 bolts

Custom Fluid

Pressure Switch

Jer

iTrader: (2)

aaaaah I think I remember seeing something about this a year or more back... or at least that's what it feels like...

I'm about to hit the six digit marker... it seemed fine today.. I think my car is just a fluke in itself because it runs fine (except for that darn s-afc)

What kinda gears (ratio) are you running?

max'n out

I don' t have them here at my appartment, there on the orginal recipet at my parents house.

max'n out

I'm putting this back to the top for one last attempt.

96bstdSE

iTrader: (1)

just to add to the confusion........anyone know why i'm running my afc at
COR + - 0%

when u guys just mentioned it should be at
COR + - 3%

max'n out

hmmmmmmmmmmmm. Corection factor last iknew only had 3 6 9 12 and one other i forgot, but no 0. You sure we talking about teh same thing? um wow, if that is the case it would be doing nothing.