[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

I took off the SC off my car again....here's story

I started to hear this loud knocking during idling these few days. so I decided to take a look. Initially I didnt i.d. the problem so I thought it was just the belt tension. I re-adjust ed it and the the noise was getting louder. I opened my hood again and I saw metal shavings coming out of my SC pulley! I now noticed the bolt that holds the SC pulley was loose. The belt and its tension just kept pulling her to one of the bolts on the plate. That hex bolt took out a little edge of the pulley.


so the same night...I took of the SC. I did it under 1.5 hour. not a record here...but it is my best. Kevin must be proud of me.


question
1.I dont have air tool, can I hand tight the bolt to the SC pulley? if I can, now? I read some where here that people use strap wrench to hold the pulley while tightening the bolts.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I'm getting good at it so I'm gonna attempt to beat that time tonight when I realign this SC, hehe. Yea, a strap wrench and a breaker bar with a 7/32 hex bit did the trick for my 3.33" pulley.

-Ben

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

thx Ben~ prob. I will try to use a tiny bit of loctite...just a little. btw, you having belt alignement problem??

once we have enough practice and we can remove it in 30 minute, pretty soon we can go out and steal some SC off other maximas j/k

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I went as fast as I could last night and I got it off in 30 minutes, though putting it back on took me an hour. Yea, I was having problems with the alternator pulley being throwing the belt off, I realized it wasn't the blower bracket, but I accidentally grounded that alternator bracket between the alternator and the blower bracket, so I removed the grounded bracket and put it on the other side of the blower bracket. So, I pretty much wasted 1.5 hours of removing and reinstalling the blower when all I had to do was relocate the grounded bracket.

-Ben

Start Time
End Time

Jer

iTrader: (2)

for a sec I thought you were going to say that knocking came from elsewhere! No need for an air tool!

delio

iTrader: (11)

You need to show that to ptatohead...

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

His homepage is the biggest help to me. Though, I'll factor out a few things to what made me remove it a little faster. First of all, point out that I didn't include the air filter, and 2nd, the piping wasn't bolted down, so that knocks off a few minutes. I earned alot from this 2ns sc install. There are a few things that can be skipped or bolts left out and for the ease of removal and reinstallation such as those 2 piping bolts to the valve cover. I think I'll talk to ptatohead about some of my thoughts on his write-up.

-Ben

delio

iTrader: (11)

no what I meant is that we had a discussion some months back where he did not believe that Kev and I could have the SC off in less than an hour.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Oh I see, yea, its possible with a little experience, hehe.

-Ben

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

the 100 dollars bet is still up? I thought the time limit is 1 hour for the pulley swap. the bolt on the pulley is to hard to say.

-----------------------------------


good time! Ben......really impressive. The hardest part for me is bolt no.18, the small hex bolt on the center of the plate just killing me. I am glad that I could fit my allen key in there. BlackCat taped the allen key to a screw driver. Otherwise....the gear wrenches helped a lot.



--------------------------------------

Jer : I thought it was my blower bearing for a second. but once I took a closer look at the SC pulley. there was a big gap bewteen the pulley and the blower.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, but you might not be as impressed when I say it again that I didn't bother installing all the bracket bolts. I actually never used the #18 bolt. On my car I got away without using bolts going into the stand-off bolts (holes #18 & #16?), so that's where I cut a lot of time. Like I said, there's a few bolts you can leave out for the ease of removal without sacrificing stability, like the bolts going into the stand-off bolts, and even the very bottom hex bolt that goes underneath the idler pulley. On this install I only left out the bolt at the top of the bracket that is supposedly captive between the plate and the pulley and the bolt going into the stand-off bolt at hole #18. I do regret putting that hex bolt in that is underneath the idler pulley, that one is a b!tch to remove.

-Ben

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

the bigger (M8) hex bolt right behind the idler pulley??

that bolt was loose on my SC and it makes a loud knocking sound when I put her into gears. It holds the tensioner pulley bracket and my tension adjuster was rattling pretty bad when that bolt was loose.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Hmm, I guess I'm glad I installed that bolt on both sc's. It just didn't rattle when the car was idling, maybe in the long run it would probably have rattled too, I guess you can say leave that bolt in.

-Ben

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Wow, I finally have a chance to read the SC forum... and I come to find that you have done well my son.

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

yes father~ I will never disappoint you. welcome back to the TC/SC forum~ thx for all the hard work and I really like the new look.


this time, I replaced the stripped hex bolts, used anti-sieze on all the hex bolts, torque them down to 30lb/ft, and add a metal strip to hold the MAF to the frame. (I had a chance to put the 3.33 back in.....but I didnt )

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

That's for even thinking about putting in the 3.33. ... and that's for doing a good job.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Looks like I have to remove the blower again because the belt is starting to shred. This is a first for me that a belt has shredded? Wht contributes to a shredded belt? I did a 90 degree belt twist for tension, was that not tight enough? The removal I did above was quick because it didn't include the hex bolt behind the idler pulley. It took me damn near 20 minutes to tighten that hex bolt down as well as another 20 minutes tightening the pulley bolt down, I think it's going to be double the time for removal this time around. What else should I look for to help prevent another shreded belt. This is starting to frustrate me.

-Ben

jdmmax

iTrader: (6)

you guys are crazy.

i saw my belt slapping around te other day and all these scenarios poped up in my head about how i was gonna have to take the supercharger off to fix the problem blah blah blah and you guys are racing each other to see who can get it off and on the fastest. mean while im dreading the day i might have to do work on the blower. all i have to say is.

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

I remember the last time I asked you to put the 3.33 back in.....this was your response ---->

I choose 2.87 because it is easier to tighten bolt no. 5 and 7 on the plate

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

belt shredding is mainly caused by bad alignment. you sure the belt is all aligned? signs of bad alignment usually reflects on the idler pulley.

if it is running too close to the engine, you need to push the SC pulley out (towards the fender) and vice versa.



I started a thread about belt alignment tips in this forum...hope this will help.

get you self a set of gear wrench will speed up the deinstall/install.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

jdmmax

iTrader: (6)

so sould i get sae or metric

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

KEvin---> <----3.33 pulley

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Well, the belt was perfectly aligned when it was at idle, it was in the center of all the pulleys, I don't know what happened once it was driven. That first removal was because the end rib was beginning to jump the rail of the alternator pulley, which I realized later was because I put the grounding alternator bracket on the wrong side of the blower plate causing it to push the alternator pulley at an angle. I'll try to find your thread on belt alignment tips. Thanks.

-Ben

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

metric~ you need the size up to 19mm. most of the bolts on there are 10mm, there are one 12mm, two 17mm, one 14 mm and one 19mm.



Ben : you can ask someone to rev her up a little and see if the belt wobbles on the idler pulley. make sure when to adjusting the tension of the belt, you dont loosen the nut on the tension pulley all the way, just loosen it enought that the pulley is able to move up and down.

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

Well, my 2.87 finally showed up, so now is my chance to see how fast I can remove/install the blower. Since I've never done it by myself before, I'm shooting for 7 hours or so After all, it did take me 12 hrs. for a VB install.

BTW, how would you guys recommend removing the stripped hex pulley bolt? Some shops said it would have to be drilled, but I don't feel comfortable having that done. Last time Jay25 and I tried to remove it, we saw that the hole was a little rounded and the allen key slipped when we put a lot of torque on it. I'm thinking about JB welding an allen key to the bolt or something, would that work?

delio

iTrader: (11)

Sears method:
When you strip the hole, hammer the next biggest size in

Ummm I seriously did that and it worked well.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Oh I see, I really have to remove it and do these things, I didn't think that loosening the nut more than enough to slide the pulley up and down would be a big factor. The thing is, I washaving problem with the pulley sliding up and down because of the brace for the bolt on alternator (the one you loosen to pivot the alternator) it seems like it kept getting in the way when I was trying to slide it up and down, so I would have to basicallyhave to loosen the pulley almost all the way for it to not hit the brace. I'm gonna start removing this blower tonight, I'm just alittle worried about not stripping that hex bolt behind the idler pulley.

-Ben

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

Kevin hammered in a "trox" socket instead of regular hex socket. it is easier to hammer that one in because it has sharp edges.

Shadow : to remove strip bolts, you have to switch back and forth with SAE and metric sockets untill you can hammer one in. Jay25 and Maxxboost00 recommanded to heat up the plate a little bit, tapped the bolt with a hammer and then remove it.


I wouldnt use allen key though....too short, too hard to apply force.


may the force be with you~

Shadow

iTrader: (15)

Thanks for the tips, I was thining about going with a allen socket, that way I can get much more torque on it, or my breaker bar if needed.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Male Torx socket... the sharp edges works wonders on the hexagon corners.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Ok, what tools are you guys using to remove the bolt that is on the idler pulley (19mm I believe)? I'm having trouble removing it to get to the hex bolt behind it. I have the tools to remove the hex bolt, but I can't seem to get any kind of tool on that idler pulley bolt. This sucks. Can anyone help me?

-Ben

Difficult Bolts
http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...7_177_full.jpg

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

I use a regular wrench on the 19mm idler pulley bolt to loosen it, then I use gear wrench to take it off. I have to do it from an angle. Be careful, dont strip it.

Kevin use another kinda gear wrench to take off the 19mm bolt

looks like this one
http://images.cardomain.com/installs...27_40_full.jpg
the one on the right.

picture credit : Jay25

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Your ableto get a regular open-end wrench on it? Maybe its the bolt thats on this pulley, but its like the bolt is flush with the pulley and I can' get hold of it with an open-end at an angle, I'm looking for something that can grab it. For the hex bolt, mine is similar to Jay's, I used a vise-grip and a hex bit instead, it does the job, hopefully it'll do the job when I try to remove it after figuring out how to remove this pulley bolt.

-Ben

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

So I was able to find a closed and angled 19mm wrench to help remove the pulley bolt. After that it was a breeze, though it took me a total of 2 hours to remove the blower, change the belt and then put everything back, and then finally tightening the belt tension. Sheesh, I hope this one doesn't shred.

-Ben

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

no problem....the craftsman allen socket only comes in 3/8" I also bought a 3/8" - 1/2" adapater so I can use bigger wrench. makes sure the socket goes all the way into the bolt.....



Hi Ben: good to hear that you took the blower off without any problem. For the 19mm, I would suggest to add a washer to push out the bolt a little bit so it will be easier to remove it in the future. I almost stripped this bolt too and I just bought a few and keep them as backup.

2 hours to remove and install it is pretty good. Just the fuse box took me about 40 minutes to put it back.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Yea, I was thinking of putting washers, but I can't see to fins any that are the right size that won't rub against the actual pulley. I finished changing the belt and the car runs fine now (knock on wood), hopefully it won't shred again.

-Ben