Sup dude! Ah, I see you now have the parts ... cool! ECU programmed by JWT is probably a good start if you want to piggyback something on top of it. For the kind of boost and power you're looking at, you'll probably want to run 550cc injectors at least. I am not knocking JWT, but it is hard to get accurate maps to optimize power from a standard ECU. If you hold on for a little while longer, there will be something more interesting coming out

For ARP studs, yes call ARP. They have them for our engines now I believe.

As for my other project, that's a secret

 

Yea nigel my plan was to use a e manage with the J&S safeguard. Kinda going off the stuff that sx7r has done with his. Im just glad he has shared his accomplishments with everyone here. And what do you mean something more interesting coming out eh. Oh do please tell. Did you get the guys at PFI to do some off the wall stand alone or something. Come on man dont tease like that. Yea ill be calling ARP up once I get home. I know they got the bolts for the VQ35 already. Well keep me posted on what ya got up yer sleeve Nigel

 

 

104+ is great stuff, but if you want VERY similar results 100% of the time incase you need it, go with an Aquamist Water Injection setup running alcohol/water, around $420 shipped on eBay.

You can easily push 4+psi more without detonation vs. pump gas.

Pretty cool IMO and can't be beat in bang/$ ratio.

 

I would run alcohol rather than a mix, but that's just my personal opinion. Alcohol is pretty darn inexpensive, but water is basically free. I guess they both have their good points...

 

Water has it's high specific heat cooling advantages, but mainly just to prevent the alcohol from corroding everything. Up to 50/50 seems to work fine at preventing detonation, yet not chewing up stuff.

I think Kev runs 70/30(water/isopropyl).

 

Just to clarify what I meant now that I look at it again, alcohol/water injection will give you similar results as 104+ octane as far as deterring detonation, but DEFINITELY WI has a slight loss in power over running 104+.

Common sense though. Just didn't want to sound like 104+ was worthless or anything.

 

I wonder what hydrogen peroxide would do if injected into an engine...

Probably blow it up...

 

Oh, ok.. I spent ~2 hrs on AW website. GOOD info.. and I am thinking abot it for daily use.. or I should say more than 104 octane.

Setting it up to fire @ like 4000 RPM...

now that I am thinking about it.. would there be any benefit to run both?

 

Well would you mind sending me an email about the "something more interesting coming out" ?

And I was thinking the JWT/J&S should work well with each other.

But the thought about the tuning of emanage makes my head hurt.

And YGM

 

Can you come by sunday about 1pm or so ?

 

Where are you going to be? Your friend's place again?

 

YES SIR.. call me on my cell phone if you need better directions ..thanks justin

 

What site did you go to??

 

I am recently boosted as well and have already thought of exactly what your talking about. I haven'y gotten into it really deep yet but here are some options that I know will work. you can figure out exactly how much your gonna grind the crank and bore over if it is needed and have a JE or Arias build you pistons for that application, forged or whatecer at like 150 or so a pop, then you can got to crower and have them make you the correct rods based on your crank demensions and what type of stroke you want, you can even specify as far pistons go wether they are dished domed, where the rod pin is and so on. I was kinda thinking for a temp fix just raising the head with a thicker head gasket, to run more boost. Any ways my point is this is really expensive and should not be left up to someone that doesn't have the correct technical data and know what they are doing. I've put a few postings on here asking the same question and no one here seems to be able to help, so I guess nobody knows the exact details to do the type of mod you and I are talking about-- imean in precise detail with all the correct milling, grind downs, over bores, piston size, finished compression ratio, and part numbers thats what I 'd like, mostly because it takes a lot of time to research and complete something like this and have it done correctly as far as drivablity goes.

 

After examining bags533 motor, seems like our pistons are not that thick at all. Id be pretty happy w/just pistons/rods/headstuds and a new headgasket. I also bought some tools to rip the block apart. Lets see how hard this really is. If not it dont hurt to have a shop to put the stuff in there and I just completely assemble it.