Well I am definetly keeping my S/C now I am peicing all the install things I will need so I can do this after finals...so when it carries into the next day and the next unexpectidly, I wont need my car for class...


Cartech FMU, AEM FPR, and Im gonna be going with the Walbro Intank so I dont have to worry about all the wire-up for the inline..
I know there are good right ups on on the Wablro...anyone have one ??

As for the Cartech and the FPR, I will need help on these..I still have to get connectors, and Fuel hose and all of that lade out before I dive in...a basic explination of the install would help...and pictures are always great

Im still iffy on the actaul blower install but I should be ok on that,,,step by step if i take is slow i should be ok...fuel delivery i dont wanna mess up on...


-matt

 

The order of arrangement for the fpr and Cartech fmu are:


Walbro in tank == fuel filter == fuel rail == fpr == fmu == return line to tank

(== represents a fuel line.)

You are going to have to remove the oem fpr from the fuel rail and install a stand-off fitting. The adjustable fpr and oem fpr will not work together.

Installing the Walbro fuel pump is a pretty easy procedure. Just a matter of removing the old pump and popping in the new. I have seen a pretty good write up, but I can't remember where. Maybe Cheston's old site. A Haynes manual should be able to walk you through it.

 

why are you using the FMU?

aren't you getting a JWT ECU for 370/z32maf at stock fp?

 

im installing the FMU first just to get the S/C in then getting the 370's and the ECU in the fall...

-matt

 

Anybody have pics? I'm planning to do this as well.

 

Yea pics would be great...I have no clue where all these lines are especially the line going back to the tank. ?!?!?

-matt

 

 

SOMEBODY sticky this~!!!!!!

 

the line going back to the tank, where does come from...I know its there from the factory and near the throttle body..

Thank for the pics alot

-matt

 

Hmm. Couldn't you have just disconnected the vacuum line to the oem fpr to allow it to flow 100% of the fuel though the line? Essentially making it a standoff fitting? I'm missing something obvisouly

 

There is a short bit of hose that connects the oem fpr to the cluster of brass tubes under the throttle body. Another longer hose runs from the other side of the brass tube to the firewall at a point below and a little to the left of the fuel filter.

When you install your adjustable fpr and Cartech fmu,

1. Disconnect the return hose from the brass tube under the TB and run it over to the return port of the Cartech fmu.

2. Remove the oem fpr and the short bit of hose that runs to the brass tube.

3. Install the stand-off fitting in the fuel rail, and run a hose from it to the inlet port of the adjustable fpr.

4. Run a hose from the outlet port of the fpr to the inlet port of the Cartech, and you're done with fuel hose routing.

 

Fuel pressure regulators flow more with increasing vacuum. Disconnecting the vacuum line would increase resistance to flow (increase fuel pressure).

I just took a drill bit and hollowed out the guts of a spare fpr I had.

 

Whoa! Thanks very much Stephen!

 

Forgive me if I have this backwards. Or maybe it's a 3-gen vs 5-gen thing?

3-gen. Idle fuel pressure is about 3x psi. (high vacuum condition) WOT fuel pressure is supposed to be a low 4xpsi (low vacuum condition).

I believe my oem fpr works by restricting fuel at high vacuum conditions (ie.. idle/part throttle). So IMHO, if I just disconnect the vacuum source, it should operate like a "low vacuum condition" or giving full psi all the time. ie.. not restricted.

My fpr looks different than your though.

But maybe you are saying the same thing. As you increse throttle, vacuum actually decreases. ie.. high vacuum at idle, less at increasing throttle pressure.

So yes, disconnecting the oem fpr would essentially disable it. ie.. making it flow 100% all the time. So you would need an aftermarket unit (adjustable in case of boost/high flow pump) to get the idle pressure to normal. But it would also eliminate the need to by an extra stand off connection?

 

Disconnecting the vacuum source to the fpr simulates a WOT condition. The oem fpr is calibrated to produce a fuel pressure of about 43 psi with no vacuum acting on it. The fpr is at the end of the fuel rail (after the injectors), and it creates fuel pressure by resisting the flow of fuel out of the rail.

A stand-off fitting, on the other hand, allows unrestricted flow of fuel from the fuel rail to the adjustable fpr, so that fuel pressure is controlled by the adjustable fpr.

If you use both the oem fpr and an adjustable fpr, the two act together like two resistors in series in an electrical circuit, and the fuel pressure will be very high. (This has been found out by a few people who didn't bother to use a stand-off fitting instead of the oem fpr, including myself.)

 

ah thanks...........

 

5th gen thing?

Jeff - Think of the FPR as a dam that blocks off a river of fuel creating backpressure to the upstream injectors. If the dam, ie FPR, allows more fuel past, the injectors see less fuel pressure.

 

So I will need a ?? fitting ?? at the hose where it comes out of the fire wall to extend it to make it to the FMU...Correct ?? at all the fitting I will need clamps as well...I was looking at the 6AN fitting on Summit and i may buy a bunch of them
I think on paper it looks alot harder than it is..I need to get my hands dirty and get out there and do it...

sorry this is all new to me ...

-matt

 

AN fittings are nice and very professional looking, but really all you need to get the job done are hose barb fittings. You can use a hose splice to connect to the fuel line going to the tank.

Look at the hose splices eight rows down to see what I'm talking about: http://www.uniweld.com/catalog/acces...e_fittings.htm