What clutch is stronger than an ACT with decent drivability?
#41
Originally Posted by matty
There are two adjustments...Pedal Height and Pedal Freeplay....Free play is how far you can push teh clutch in before you feel resistance, all up to you, and the Pedal Height is all up to you as well
Grab Point is all up to the clutch !!! When Clutchs get old I know they tend to grab a tad bit higher than when they were new...
-matt
Grab Point is all up to the clutch !!! When Clutchs get old I know they tend to grab a tad bit higher than when they were new...
-matt
Yes your correct. i looked in the FSM. Sorry for the confusion
#43
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I have the clutchnet clutch and ACT extreme pressure plate. It is a very grabby clutch (perhaps because of the pressure plate) I recommend this configuration if you drag race but not for the street. Pedal pressure is quite a bit higher than stock.
It is slippable but not very. I get some chatter occassionally. It is definitely not the pressure plate of choice for those driving in traffic!
There is an adjustment behind the clutch pedal that can adjust the point of engagement. The "biting" point (or point where the clutch begins to engage) and full engagement point is fixed and is VERY short. (I am not sure if Matty was saying this exact same thing or not)
It took me a full month to get my clutch to settle in and for the adjustment to be fixed because it kept moving! I don't know why for sure (whether it was because I did not tighten the lock nut or whether it was the clutch breaking in or something else) It was definitely not because of the hydraulics.
You think your old clutch was toast? You should have seen mine! It was warped really badly and there were chunks of disc welded to the flywheel!
It is slippable but not very. I get some chatter occassionally. It is definitely not the pressure plate of choice for those driving in traffic!
There is an adjustment behind the clutch pedal that can adjust the point of engagement. The "biting" point (or point where the clutch begins to engage) and full engagement point is fixed and is VERY short. (I am not sure if Matty was saying this exact same thing or not)
It took me a full month to get my clutch to settle in and for the adjustment to be fixed because it kept moving! I don't know why for sure (whether it was because I did not tighten the lock nut or whether it was the clutch breaking in or something else) It was definitely not because of the hydraulics.
You think your old clutch was toast? You should have seen mine! It was warped really badly and there were chunks of disc welded to the flywheel!
#44
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Originally Posted by turbo97SE
It took me a full month to get my clutch to settle in and for the adjustment to be fixed because it kept moving! I don't know why for sure (whether it was because I did not tighten the lock nut or whether it was the clutch breaking in or something else) It was definitely not because of the hydraulics.
D
#45
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Ok - so let's be clear on this:
I want to adjust where on the pedal travel the clutch engages - not necessarily how fast after it begins to grab that it engages fully.
The clutch right now starts to engage 2.5" from where the pedal travel ends and is fully engaged 1.5" away. The fact that there's only 1" difference between where it begins to engage and actually engages is fine with me - I can get used to it.
But in general I want it to engage as a whole closer to the floor. Sounds like I just have to play ith the lock nut and go from there.
Mine doesn't chatter whatsoever yet. However, the guy who resurfaced my flywheel (he's been dragging for a good 15 years or so) said that the ACT PP I had is way too high in pressure for an aluminum flywheel, and he showed me phisically where the flywheel was "bowled" from too much pressure.
But I have the clutchnet PP now, and it's quite a bit softer - so for me - that problem is solved.
I'll go play with the locknut/rod after I get off work tonight and see what results I can get.
So far no chatter or groaning whatsoever - but yes - it is either engaged or not - there is not much if any middle ground. (like I said, about 1") And when it grabs, it grabs hard.
IanS
I want to adjust where on the pedal travel the clutch engages - not necessarily how fast after it begins to grab that it engages fully.
The clutch right now starts to engage 2.5" from where the pedal travel ends and is fully engaged 1.5" away. The fact that there's only 1" difference between where it begins to engage and actually engages is fine with me - I can get used to it.
But in general I want it to engage as a whole closer to the floor. Sounds like I just have to play ith the lock nut and go from there.
Mine doesn't chatter whatsoever yet. However, the guy who resurfaced my flywheel (he's been dragging for a good 15 years or so) said that the ACT PP I had is way too high in pressure for an aluminum flywheel, and he showed me phisically where the flywheel was "bowled" from too much pressure.
But I have the clutchnet PP now, and it's quite a bit softer - so for me - that problem is solved.
I'll go play with the locknut/rod after I get off work tonight and see what results I can get.
So far no chatter or groaning whatsoever - but yes - it is either engaged or not - there is not much if any middle ground. (like I said, about 1") And when it grabs, it grabs hard.
IanS
#46
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So I went out and adjusted the rod at the master cylinder.
It did lower the engagement to about the 1/2 way mark - but now it's all the way out from the cylinder. Can't adjust any further
Oh well - this is better anyway - I am now getting a little chatter also - but it's barely noticable - I'm sure it will get worse as it breaks in more.
It did lower the engagement to about the 1/2 way mark - but now it's all the way out from the cylinder. Can't adjust any further
Oh well - this is better anyway - I am now getting a little chatter also - but it's barely noticable - I'm sure it will get worse as it breaks in more.
#48
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I htink I said earlier in this thread that I have a Fidanza - I've had it since I did the 5spd swap. The overly aggressive ACT PP actually warped the aluminum flywheel. If I had an OEM one, it wouldn't have been half as bad.
But I was able to get it resurfaced anyway (although I'm told it won't be able to be done again) and it's in the car right now.
But I was able to get it resurfaced anyway (although I'm told it won't be able to be done again) and it's in the car right now.
#49
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I actually just went threw that with my Fidanza...The ACT warped the Inner Circular Friction Plate on the Flywheel...I called Fidanze and for $90 they sent a NEW friction Plate out and presto a brand new flywheel
Fidanza told my Trans shop not to bother with the resuraface but if your guy did it ok, then good
-matt
Fidanza told my Trans shop not to bother with the resuraface but if your guy did it ok, then good
-matt
#52
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The clutchnet PP is WAY softer than the ACT - my pedal used to be really stiff, now it feels about like stock.
The 6-puck grabs harder, but clamps softer - which is the entire point. It allows for torque slippage without destroying the clutch but still grabs great.
(This is assuming it's a sprung 6-puck, not a solid one)
Try this:
Put your hand flat on a table and turn your hand 45 degrees with a little force.
Next, only put the tips of your fingers on the same table and do the same thing.
The fingers extended grabs harder. Tha'ts the basic theory of a 6-puck as explained to me by a local mechanic.
Makes sense once you try it.
The 6-puck grabs harder, but clamps softer - which is the entire point. It allows for torque slippage without destroying the clutch but still grabs great.
(This is assuming it's a sprung 6-puck, not a solid one)
Try this:
Put your hand flat on a table and turn your hand 45 degrees with a little force.
Next, only put the tips of your fingers on the same table and do the same thing.
The fingers extended grabs harder. Tha'ts the basic theory of a 6-puck as explained to me by a local mechanic.
Makes sense once you try it.
#55
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Hello everyone.
The clutch has been great until this morning - when it started doing this in reverse whlie engaging (it stops once you're engaged).
It does the same in 1st, but not 1/2 as loud:
http://www.cyberhub.net/video/tranny.wmv
The clutch has been great until this morning - when it started doing this in reverse whlie engaging (it stops once you're engaged).
It does the same in 1st, but not 1/2 as loud:
http://www.cyberhub.net/video/tranny.wmv
#56
whats everyones take on the SPEC brand clutches?
Also how is the clutchnet organic clutch. I really dont want a aggressive clutch, I want the clutch to be the weakest link (but not overly weak of coarse) in the tranny to save my gears and stuff
Also how is the clutchnet organic clutch. I really dont want a aggressive clutch, I want the clutch to be the weakest link (but not overly weak of coarse) in the tranny to save my gears and stuff
#58
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VQ35DES - You're OT - start your own post please.
Again - someone listen to this:
http://www.cyberhub.net/video/tranny.wmv
Again - someone listen to this:
http://www.cyberhub.net/video/tranny.wmv
#60
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Basically it's a hollow metallic CLANK CLANK CLANK that happens when the clutch chatters.
Shifting in all gears is smooth, and it is far louder in R than starting from a stop in 1st. I can't hear it in any other gears - probably just because the car is moving and louder.
IanS
Shifting in all gears is smooth, and it is far louder in R than starting from a stop in 1st. I can't hear it in any other gears - probably just because the car is moving and louder.
IanS
#62
Originally Posted by iansw
VQ35DES - You're OT - start your own post please.
Again - someone listen to this:
http://www.cyberhub.net/video/tranny.wmv
Again - someone listen to this:
http://www.cyberhub.net/video/tranny.wmv
#70
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Yep - Fidanza + VLSD + Clutchnet = pwn.
It was chattery as hell for the first 3k miles and it still when cold makes a groaning noise (but you don't feel it through the pedal or anything) when starting from a stop.
After that first 3k, the groaning noise happens only on cold days and the clutch never chatters unless I'm an idiot and shift wrong.
It was chattery as hell for the first 3k miles and it still when cold makes a groaning noise (but you don't feel it through the pedal or anything) when starting from a stop.
After that first 3k, the groaning noise happens only on cold days and the clutch never chatters unless I'm an idiot and shift wrong.
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