Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

Wanting to go turbo

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Old May 25, 2004 | 06:12 PM
  #1  
v6maximus's Avatar
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Wanting to go turbo

Made myself a list from what I would need. I'm planning on running 8 PSI of boost with stock compression using 98 RON fuel (wich I allready use all the time). Could you guys with experience on turboing the VQ30DE check out my list and tell me if I could go with this setup, and tell me what I should do different? I want to get arround 320 whp with this setup and I think it should be possible this way. However you might know better ways or I could forgot something.


- 2 steps colder plugs
- Custom crossover from headers to turbo
- Garret GT35R Hybrid Turbo
- 440 cc Injectors
- Spearco intercooler (front mounted)
- HKS SSQV Blowoff valve
- Turbonetics wastegate
- intercooler piping
- 3 inch downpipe and exhaust system
- Walboro high-flow fuelpump
- ACT stage 2 clutch (is it drivable on the street??)
- Boost gauge, oil temp gauge and A/F gauge
- RPM trigger switch to change the MEVI's timing
- JWT ECU upgrade with 7k rev limmit

So, what do you guys think of it?

My engine has allready arround 250.000 km on it, should it hold together with a turbo setup? The previous owner never revved it higher then 3.5k rpm and the engine runs smooth as if it was new. Should I get a lower mileage engine before going turbo or is it safe to turbo this one? The problem for me is that there aren't manny VQ30DE's arround here so I could end up having to rebuild my current engine.

Anny input would be greatly appriciated, as long as its relevant
Old May 25, 2004 | 06:45 PM
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The only thing I would worry about, provided your current engine is as smooth-running as you say it is, is the transmission. Consider a swap or rebuild because from what I've read, maxima trannies are the most vulnerable parts to boost.
Old May 25, 2004 | 07:15 PM
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How many miles does 250,000 km convert to ??
Do a compression test on the engine as well and that should show any signes of engine trouble

-matt
Old May 26, 2004 | 03:52 AM
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It would convert to arround 155 k miles. I'll do a compression test and post the results.

Are there any tranny upgrade parts out there for our maxima's? Or any way you could tell me to beef up it's internals?
Old May 26, 2004 | 07:36 AM
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There are things you can have done to your trany. You could have the internals ground, shot peened, cryo-frozen. There is a lot of stuff you can do, but from what I've seen on this site boost dosen't kill tranys, Idiots with boost kill trany's. I think if you wanted you could get away with switching to syn trany fluid.
Drive reasonably, or have fun and have a back up trany!
Old May 26, 2004 | 08:31 AM
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GT35 ball bearing turbo is too big (in my opinion) for a 3.0L engine. Be better to run with a GT30.

With all the items you mentioned you looking at well over 8000 for that. Also if you are getting 440cc injectors how you plan on running them? Emanage ? If so, need to add that as well.

Dixit
Old May 26, 2004 | 09:29 AM
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Why too much lag?
Old May 26, 2004 | 10:15 AM
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Well Now that I look at it, I was thinking of the Gt40 turbo for some reason. The GT35R is not bad, but to me its too much lag. Im not into going full boost by 4000rpm. I used to Have a T3/T4 H3trim and started building boost by 1400rpm and went full 5psi by 2400rpm, and full 10 by 2800. Id get such a jump on other bigger turbo cars. Yes they'd catch up later, but I loved getting on them quick and they had to play catchup.

GT35R would be fairly good, but to be an 8psi turbo, you got the wrong one. Thats a MAN's turbo, you get that if you want to start going into the 12-20psi range and want to spool quick.

If you only plan on staying at 8psi, then no point doing a ball bearing if your goals are only 320whp. You are wasting your money in my opinion. A ball bearing turbo is going to run you $1000 more than a standard journal bearing one or thrust bearing.

Dixit
Old May 26, 2004 | 01:01 PM
  #9  
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I'm doing it because I want to upgrade it in the future. First I want to see how it holds up at 8 PSI, if all goes well and drivability is still good I will take it higher. Maybe when I put in CR lowering pistons that I boost up to 19 PSI or above. Think it should be possible to push over 700 hp out of this engine, but I don't think drivability would still be a valid word in the max's dictionairy
Old May 26, 2004 | 02:32 PM
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With that much power you'll probably want to go with a Z32 MAF too.

I know JWT can reprogram your ECU for 370cc injectors, but can they do the same for something bigger?
Old May 27, 2004 | 02:10 AM
  #11  
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I will mail them, if they can't I think I'll just stick with those, and if they aren't sufficient anymore I'll just have to go with a DTA fuelmanagement system.
Old Jun 1, 2004 | 11:47 AM
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Just wondering but what do us 5th generation owners do for MAF when we reach that 330-350hp or more level. It seems that the 350z injectors work but what about the MAF. I know there are 5th gen owners at and above this level. Jhans14 has 330hp with out nitrous and 356hp with. Im sure frosty and them are at this level, what do you do? sorry to change the topic of the thread.
Old Jun 1, 2004 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by VQ30DES
Just wondering but what do us 5th generation owners do for MAF when we reach that 330-350hp or more level. It seems that the 350z injectors work but what about the MAF. I know there are 5th gen owners at and above this level. Jhans14 has 330hp with out nitrous and 356hp with. Im sure frosty and them are at this level, what do you do? sorry to change the topic of the thread.
Use an eManage and then use the pressure sensor to continue to map the a/f ratio accordingly.

If you want to know more about that, go to greddy's website and get your learn on there on how it works.

Dixit
Old Jun 1, 2004 | 12:11 PM
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You have a link to that one?
Old Jun 1, 2004 | 12:26 PM
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www.google.com
Old Jun 1, 2004 | 02:03 PM
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Now are you sure that is a direct link?
Old Jun 2, 2004 | 05:36 PM
  #17  
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so, that means we keep the A33 MAF and use the E-manage to controll the fuel and all that. So it seems you need the E-o1 to do this so i take it you use that as your boost controller as well. Thanks alot for the 411
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