daniel.castillo

Want to S/C my 95 auto max. When i get back to the states.Currently in iraq but i dont have the time to search so thast where i need u guys to help me out as much as possible and straight to the point.Going to buy from stillen. But need one straight answer. Is it worth it? Im not gonna be racing just to cruise and gonna finish up my car for show and i think that would make a good look in it as well. But any downfalls even though i dont race my car. Whats the best pulley for the car. Well it be find more long trips once in a while? Thanks

email to Daniel.Castillo4@us.army.mil

live in mcallen texas and was looking for anyone for install.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

See if you can buy a used kit instead of going through Stillen.

MSRP: $3,899.00
Our Price: $3,742.00

Man, back in 2000 the price was $3,300 when I got mine.

As for whether its worth it or not is up to you and what you want to achieve. I did it because I was left eating the dust from a Navigator SUV.

daniel.castillo

Are turbokits.com reliable to 95 max auto..Hoping i would sc but if either of those kits work awesome i would love to order one asap..

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Its not worth it if you go with the stock 3.6 pulley. For this reason you might as well buy a used kit with a smaller pulley.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Why is that?... I know you get more boost from the smaller pully, but even at 6psi with the stock pully, the kit makes 85hp...

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

$3800 for 85WHP? 6PSI on a super is On a turbo 6PSI is very significant but the 3.6 is kinda like taking all the bolts ons you can get and adding 20HP. Why not make it $3850 for 100WHP? Or why not do it like me? $1300 for ~110WHP.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

I dont really want to buy used, for a few months more of saving, I can be more confident in any purchase by buying brand new... my plan is to buy a brand new SC, run 6psi for a breif time until i can same up enough to have JWT modify my ECU with their SC program, run bigger injectors and fuel pump, then buy the smaller pully to run 9 or 10psi...

I understand your position that a used SC with the smaller pully is the best bang for your buck, but I really dont trust a used one. Not to mention you would not even be able to run the thing until you get the injectors, fuel pump, and modified ecu.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Not true. You can very safely run a 3.3 with stock everything. Just a nice FMU and a T-Rex or Walbro. $3800-$1300= $2500 is only a few months more of saving? Why you so confident the schmuck at Stillen wasn't meetin' with Cheech and Chong when he was packin' your stuff? Its happened to nearly all buyers. They get the packages and go to install it that moment. They have there car ripped apart when they realize they are missing the "Insert part preceeded by expilicate." Do what you want. Throw away that $2500 that would and rightfully should go to brakes to stop all 6 pounds.

daniel.castillo

well doesnt really answer my question. i found a v2 SC for 2800 wit 20K..Or would i go for a turbo from turbokit,com thats 4g w.everything.Not looking into perf want to throw it in for cars shows etc. But maybe later will want the perf after everything. What will you do SC or TURBO!! THANKS

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Hmm... I did not know that you could run the 3.3 pully with just FMU and a walbro fuel pump and be safe... I just might do that from the get go and do the JWT ECU and fuel injectors a little later.

For me $2500 of saving is about 4-5 months and only an idiot would go install their SC kit before doing a complete parts check. Why do you have so much condifence in buying someones used SC. I think the odds are greater that Stillen would include every little part than Joe Dirt from Jerkwater, USA...

Not to mention the cheapest SC kit in the classifieds I have seen had 38K on it and they would not budge below $2800... I think I will wait the 2 months and run a SC that will need to be rebuilt in 40,000 less miles and have every little part.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

I don't have confidence in buying a used kit. I have confidence in scraping together your own kit from others' used parts. When all said and done I'm going to have 3" piping, a real BOV, a SFMU, a 3.3" and a walbro instead of the engine bay clutering T-rex. And it is going to be just about $1300-1400. Why spend $3800 for basically just the blower, bracket and oil feed/drain?

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Could you break it down price wise how your gonna do it for $1400

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

If it could be had for under 2 grands I would've been all over it instead of doing a 3.5 swap.

Then again an SC'd 3.5 is even better

Weren't you the one that said boost and cheap didn't go well together?

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Freshly rebuilt Blower w/ 2.87 pulley - $800.
Vortech BOV(Local) - $165
SFMU - $75-150(Ebay)
Walbro - $85
Belt - $20
Charge Pipe - ~$30(Fabbing myself)
Couplings - $20-50
Bracket - $Free(Trading Slimer my 2.87 for his 3.3 and busted bracket)
Oil Feed - $20(I've got a hookup at a local hydraulic shop)
Oil Drain Plate - $Free(Modfying the stocker)
Oil drain line - $Free(Mom works at hospital)
Bolts and misc fittings - $20

Estimated Minimum = $1237

The only thing that could drastically skew the estimated price is the SFMU. I'm not very comfortable buying off ebay and might just buy a new one. That is of course unless someone on here has one.

Before people start asking questions like, "What about the filter?" or "What about the tensioner?" Let me explain. I'm going to be going without a filter. This car isn't a daily driver so I really don't have a problem clamping some fine screen over the blower inlet. Steve even suggested I have someone crochet "Broaner" in one of those circle things and then clamp that down. LOL. But even a good K&N would only add $50 to the cost. The tensioner? I'm going to try to modify the bracket and T-stat so I don't need a tensioner. It will be tough.

JClaw, I believe Mike was the one that said boost and cheap don't go together.

chris'smax

iTrader: (3)

with that 2.87 pulley you better add a few hundred bucks to that total.

first of all i hope you plan on upgrading injectors. Also you need to account for guages and fuel controller(if you want a good tune)

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Read further down where I said, "Bracket - $Free(Trading Slimer the 2.87 for his 3.3 and busted bracket)"

Fuel controller is listed. That is what an SFMU is. Gauges yes but the kit doesn't come with gauges.

chris'smax

iTrader: (3)

ahh didn't read the part about the trading for the 3.3. That should do fine then. I was hoping you weren't really going to run that 2.87 and only tune with the sfmu.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

You do know that stock injectors will be maxed out at aroudn 270 hp. I am having to run 85psi of fuel pressure in order not to run lean at 260hp. Running that high of fuel pressure is not a great idea

No gauges? I would not go with anything less than FP and boost.

You do know that an FMU will only get you in the ball park as far as AF. With an 8:1 disk I was almost at 12.5:1 AF and with a 10:1 disk I was less than 10:1 in many spots. Your not gonna have a nice tune at all with just an FMU.

What about T-bolts?

Don'y you need a large 90 degree bend coupler...those are like $50 themselves

What type of threaded fitting are you gonna use for the oil pressure sending unit? You

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

All I know is that many people have successfully run stock injectors on the 3.3.

Gauges? Gauges aren't included in that $3800. Of course I'm going to get FP, Boost and EGT gauges but either route that would be money you'd have to spend. All that will be ~$200 local. Include that in the kit and you've got yourself a kit that runs $4k.

The SFMU is superior to a disk type FMU because, it has five separate adjustments that can be used to "shape" the fuel pressure curve.
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/.../fmu_sfmu.html

T-Bolts? There are only four needed. That was included in the estimated cost of the coupling.

The couplings, maybe I underestimated a bit. But not by more than $50. That still leaves me under $1400.

Threaded fittings? I'm going to use whatever the hydraulic shop has. They will be the correct fittings.

chris'smax

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=Broaner]

The SFMU is superior to a disk type FMU because, it has five separate adjustments that can be used to "shape" the fuel pressure curve.
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/.../fmu_sfmu.html

what mike is saying is yes you can tune with a FMU or SFMU, but your afr will still not be perfect throughout the rpm band. That is where a SAFC or EMANAGE comes into play so you can make the small adjustments at different parts of the rpm band where needed

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

The fact that gauges are not inclueded in a new SC kit has nothing to do with the fact that you need/have to have them to call your set up complete. If has to be included in the price of your project.

What is the "local" thing. I assume your gonna want a electric FP gauge so that you can monitor it in cabin. There are only a couple ones in psi format that go high enought for our applications. The Defi gauge, which I have, is about $170 and the autometer is just a little less. A good boost and EGT is gonna be another $250 or so.

The fitting that goes inbetween the block and the oil pressure sending unit needs to be BSPT threads not NPT. But good luck finding a T-fitting in BSPT, especially just at a local shop. So your proabably going to have a NPT threaded T-fitting and then need BSPT to NPT adapters. I know of one place that specializes in Nissan boost parts that has those for this exact problem. The correct fittings for feed tap cost me $50 alone. Some people are cheap and just jam an NPT thread into the block when it needs to be BSPT. I would not want to do that with an aluminum block, no thanks.