nice work mike, you've come a long way

 

Mike, this is one of the times you love your car huh?

Good stuff.

 

Nice numbers Mike! I need to get down there one of these days to check this beast out.

 

well i gotta buy another j&s because boosted95 jipped me out of 300 bucks! once i get that im gonna play with the my base fp (its at 34psi), cartech fmu (drop the ratio) and richen it up w/ safc2.....im trying 2 keep up with u guys mike and royal. damn auto tranny!

 

Post your dyno results here: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=360493

 

I'm really impressed w/ your numbers man. I plan to run your injector/maf setup on my VQ when I get to that stage. Talk about a cheap fuel setup! 330hp must be a ton of fun!

How's the driveability, any bucking or surging, etc?

allen

 

Great numbers! Keep up the good work.

 

I hope to get those kinds of numbers on my I30T, initially, and PRAY nothing like that happens to my ECU. Any idea though what could have been wrong with the ECU? could JWT have made a mistake in calculations???

 

JWT never makes mistakes....ever.....

 

Whats the AF on the JWT?

 

Sorry for the non reponse, I was out of town for a few days. The great Noth Woods...no TV, no cell phone, no internet.....it was fabulous.

I will try and get a repsonse in here to all the questions/comments

Yes, I am rich. I did not want to pull anymore fuel since I am on stock timing. I don't have an AFPR, if I did I would turn down base fuel pressure so my corrections would not be as severe. I am at 50psi of base fuel pressure. The rich tune is not a big deal to me....it may even help keep temps down and help with detonation.

I personally have no driveability issues with the stock ECU. No staring problems at all, no surging, hesitating, no nothing. Car also runs great wit the JWT ECU. I know other who have tried this fuel management method have had a problem with flooding at start up....I am not sure why I don't. It may have something to do with using modified stock injectors???

The SAE CF was 1.01. Using no correction made very little differene on power, on the order of 4-5 hp.

I now have all of the run files. I can't seem to be able to export them from RunViewer. All I can do is print out the graphs and scan them. I am also out of color ink so the images kinda suck. On some of the comparisons On some graphs I will do HP and TQ seperate so you can follow the curves better. The higher power curves and the lower AF curves are the stock ECU

**Note, all boost levels may not be exactly accurate. I get a little bit different reading from my Blitz boost gauge which I have reading in bar and my Greddy EBC which I have reading in PSI. They vary about 1psi and I just take the average of the two.

This first one is just a comparison of my previous dyno session at 5psi compared to this time at 8psi.




This second one is the JWT ECU @ 12.7 psi and the stock ECU @ 8psi (HP curve only). This doesn't paint the most accurate picture becasue with how I had the EBC set I was losing boost after 5.5K rpms with the JWT ECU. After the peak of 12.7psi it falls to about 10psi at redline. So if I held boost it would not look as bad....but still not good. Even if I held the boost it would not make the up the power difference. The stock ECU is with the EBC turned off so that is just the wastegate spring and it holds boost fine.




Here is the same comparison but with TQ.



AF comparioson betweent the JWT ECU and stock ECU

 

Good info.

 

Nice. Try a print screen capture and paste that into Photo Shop or another image program, it will even paste into a word document.

 

my boost falls hard like that also what did you adjust on your ebc?

 

The Greddy profed B II has "gain" and "set gain". Have messed with it alot and can't get it to hold.

 

NIce numbers and great data!!!!!!!

Jwt = teh suck

 

i only have a gain setting

 

I got that gain on my greddy type S EBC too,how do you adjust that?

 

increase the gain to keep the boost from going doen as rpm increase. say you get 10psi at 4500 rpm, but 9psi at 5500 and 8psi at 6500. If the gain is at 50% at 4500rpm set the gain a bit higher, say 60%, at 5500 and maybe 70% at 6500.

 

The gain is not rpm dependent on the Profec B. It is not possible to turn the gain up at different rpms.

 

I don't think I am going to give in yet if they are willing to make some changes. I want a safe tune and I can get that with them, I just need to get more power per lb of boost out of it. I wouldn't expect to make the same power at X amount of boost with the JWT ECU that the stock ECU would make but there is just too much of a difference they way the tune is now.

 

I agree safe is the best way to go, if you could get them to pull a specific amount of timing at a specific rpm range, that would be great.

 

Talked to Jim at length today. He said he is more than happy to make changes, but we need to get some timing logged first to know where to start. So I will continue with this to see if I/we can get a proper tune. It will probably be a few weeks before anything happens

 

With that amount of power I think you could go so far as to manage a 12 second run even on street tires. Wheelspin must be ridiculous though.

 

It's not really something you can understand if you haven't driven a high powered turbo car. With an NA max managing wheelspin is a first gear affair basically. If you can manage the spin in 1st gear you are good for the rest of the run. Not so in a turbo car where power comes on like a light switch even at 30% throttle. My turbo car would utterly destroy my NA car even at that throttle setting. The boost comes on and its just a positive feedback system. Not only does it come on in immediate fashion, but it does it in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. I did ok with my N/A max on street tires but with a turbo car it's a whole different ballgame. I've pulled a best of 2.20 60' in my turbo car by basically going like 30% throttle the entire gear, and then proceeded to run a 13.10 @ 115 because when I hit 2nd I gave it too much gas, and then the same thing in 3rd. The wheelspin didn't stop until I hit 4th gear.

 

must be nice to have that problem though...

And nice numbers Mike!

 

I don't have a fist gear, tires kinda try to grip in second but once I go past 5K the tach just slams against the rev limiter, thrid gear is OK if it is not too cold out and I don't have my cut out open. With my cut out open I spin a in 3rd as well.

 

I dont have a first gear either, but 1st grips when at the track, same tires, low psi, so if my 1st holds, your 2nd should

Dunno. Mine doesn't put out anywhere near the same power but 2nd has been a problem on the street lately, at high rpms. Yet, at the track, I can floor it through all gears including 1st and it holds on some runs. Just saying, if the track is well-prepped, it's manageable -- unless you dump the clutch, that results in nothing but wheelspin.

If I go to the track on 5$ Tuesday nights traction is a joke (I swear, I have a 15.1@104 timeslip laying around), but on Saturdays when it's actually prepped it's an entirely different story.

 

Uh - isn't that the bauty of a Turbo setup? For street you can just turn it down some so you don't lose traction?

Wish I had that luxury.