My Emanage Ultimate is here! -Part 2- *MAJOR UPDATE*
Are you using Duty Cycle or Injector Pulsewidth?
Are you using the Add Injector map to add fuel from 6400-7000rpm or just the RLC map?
Do you have any logs?
Also, have you posted the dynos?
Are you using the Add Injector map to add fuel from 6400-7000rpm or just the RLC map?
Do you have any logs?
Also, have you posted the dynos?
Originally Posted by jeremykedel
Icey you apparently dont understand what i am saying.I have adjusted the RLC map numerous amounts on and off the dyno.It brought down the a/f to 13.3 but i cant get it to 11.7 without the timing signal to read the timing off a log then adjust from there.I know what has to be adjusted I just am waiting patiently.
Dandy has done a great job and my applause for all the hard work.
I had some problems to start off like a faulty unit but other than that i have had a success with the EU.
Dandy has done a great job and my applause for all the hard work.
I had some problems to start off like a faulty unit but other than that i have had a success with the EU.
I used both maps to adjust,I dont have any logs i am going to wait till the update is out i turned off the rev limit for now till it is out.As far as the dynos I didnt post the last one but kevlo and I are going to go to a dyno jet in the next few weeks hopefully and do some more tuning.I am using duty cycle.
No offense, but you're not doing something right then. I can make my injectors go static between redline and whatever rev-limit. That or maybe your fuel system isn't capable? I think you said you have 550cc injectors, so maybe your fuel pressure, got Walbro?
For consistency, do NOT use duty cycle, use pulsewidth. Duty cycle is related to RPM, therefore it will vary as RPM changes. IPW doesn't.
You can wait for the new update, but sounds like Dandy isn't too sure it will fix the RLC map. You're probably waiting for the next update. If you could get a few logs and the current EU file, I could probably tell you what you're missing.
For consistency, do NOT use duty cycle, use pulsewidth. Duty cycle is related to RPM, therefore it will vary as RPM changes. IPW doesn't.
You can wait for the new update, but sounds like Dandy isn't too sure it will fix the RLC map. You're probably waiting for the next update. If you could get a few logs and the current EU file, I could probably tell you what you're missing.
Originally Posted by jeremykedel
I used both maps to adjust,I dont have any logs i am going to wait till the update is out i turned off the rev limit for now till it is out.As far as the dynos I didnt post the last one but kevlo and I are going to go to a dyno jet in the next few weeks hopefully and do some more tuning.I am using duty cycle.
Jeremy,
To keep from whoring another one of Dandys' threads to death, continue back here where Kevlo and I were discussing what was wrong:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=464042&page=3
To keep from whoring another one of Dandys' threads to death, continue back here where Kevlo and I were discussing what was wrong:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=464042&page=3
Small update
Well I've been wondering what's taking so long with the new update so I talked to Greddy again.
Unfortunately it's going to be another couple weeks at least as they are trying to roll several updates into one it sounds like and they're still working on finishing them up. Not sure if it will be released as 1.15 or 1.16 but I have seen at least 4 or 5 different versions of 1.15 beta so now I know why.
I can say though that it looks like a new and useful revision will be included:
- There is a new map that I believe will make the MAF to MAP conversion a lot more user-friendly and quicker. I'll have to test it and verify that that is indeed what it's for, but it looks like instead of having to do a lengthy datalog and then pick representative points for various load cells, this 16x16 "data sampling" map will fill in automatically as you drive around. Not sure how it will pick the numbers though.. ie will it average some readings or just overwrite with the latest value, will have to see once I get a chance to try it out on my car. Looking at the options I suspect there may be other uses as well.
Finally, I reported before that timing adjustability would increase to +/-40. Well apparently I was misinformed. It sounds like that was in relation to the datalogger range or something.. I didnt quite get a clear answer there. But anyways, on the timing adjustability I'm still not sure what it will end up as (20 or 30?) I've raised this issue and Japan will have to verify/correct, but it's a minor issue.
I'm sorry to have to say "be patient" again, but I've seen almost a new beta a week now so it is being worked on diligently and shouldn't be TOO much longer. The delay in the update should not deter anyone from getting an EU if they were planning to though (IMHO).
Unfortunately it's going to be another couple weeks at least as they are trying to roll several updates into one it sounds like and they're still working on finishing them up. Not sure if it will be released as 1.15 or 1.16 but I have seen at least 4 or 5 different versions of 1.15 beta so now I know why.
I can say though that it looks like a new and useful revision will be included:
- There is a new map that I believe will make the MAF to MAP conversion a lot more user-friendly and quicker. I'll have to test it and verify that that is indeed what it's for, but it looks like instead of having to do a lengthy datalog and then pick representative points for various load cells, this 16x16 "data sampling" map will fill in automatically as you drive around. Not sure how it will pick the numbers though.. ie will it average some readings or just overwrite with the latest value, will have to see once I get a chance to try it out on my car. Looking at the options I suspect there may be other uses as well.
Finally, I reported before that timing adjustability would increase to +/-40. Well apparently I was misinformed. It sounds like that was in relation to the datalogger range or something.. I didnt quite get a clear answer there. But anyways, on the timing adjustability I'm still not sure what it will end up as (20 or 30?) I've raised this issue and Japan will have to verify/correct, but it's a minor issue.
I'm sorry to have to say "be patient" again, but I've seen almost a new beta a week now so it is being worked on diligently and shouldn't be TOO much longer. The delay in the update should not deter anyone from getting an EU if they were planning to though (IMHO).
I'm not sure what you mean, since the previous versions RLC map could use duration/pulsewidth.
Originally Posted by DandyMax
- The rev limit map can now be programmed directly with pulsewidth, not just duty cycle.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I'm not sure what you mean, since the previous versions RLC map could use duration/pulsewidth.
Since I've been getting questions and it's come up in discussions, I'm going to post a couple reference pictures to keep everything in one thread.
IIRC Icey posted a similar pic of his elsewhere but the first pic below is my EU board, showing the resistors wired onto the 6 EU ignition input pins and grounded on the EU ground pin. The resistors will need to be added if a primary ignition signal code (P1320 (0201)) is thrown by the ECU. They should be around 330 to 370 ohms and either 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistors. Credit goes to John at J&S I believe for first suggesting this fix.
The second pic is my EU harness, showing the d-sub connectors I used for the install. I wanted a system whereby I could quickly and easily take the EU in and out several times, and the d-subs also have labelled pins, making the organization of the wiring easier. You will see there are two 25-pin connectors (mainly for all the input and outputs --ie intercepts) and one 15-pin connector for the taps. On the car side (ECU harness wiring) there is a similar setup to match. Therefore to remove the EU, all three connectors are pulled apart and the two larger connectors on the ECU side are simply put back together to complete each line's circuit. This was a good solution for me since I was testing and playing around a lot. Others may wish to go a different route but I just thought I'd post it in case anyone is interested since it has come up and people have asked me.
IIRC Icey posted a similar pic of his elsewhere but the first pic below is my EU board, showing the resistors wired onto the 6 EU ignition input pins and grounded on the EU ground pin. The resistors will need to be added if a primary ignition signal code (P1320 (0201)) is thrown by the ECU. They should be around 330 to 370 ohms and either 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistors. Credit goes to John at J&S I believe for first suggesting this fix.
The second pic is my EU harness, showing the d-sub connectors I used for the install. I wanted a system whereby I could quickly and easily take the EU in and out several times, and the d-subs also have labelled pins, making the organization of the wiring easier. You will see there are two 25-pin connectors (mainly for all the input and outputs --ie intercepts) and one 15-pin connector for the taps. On the car side (ECU harness wiring) there is a similar setup to match. Therefore to remove the EU, all three connectors are pulled apart and the two larger connectors on the ECU side are simply put back together to complete each line's circuit. This was a good solution for me since I was testing and playing around a lot. Others may wish to go a different route but I just thought I'd post it in case anyone is interested since it has come up and people have asked me.
Originally Posted by hightuner
Is this correct , they are all linked to the same ground ,
Originally Posted by hightuner
is all 95-96 getting the code
Originally Posted by hightuner
Thank you sir
do i have to check the light on the ecu or the CEL will come out if i have it
just curious
do i have to check the light on the ecu or the CEL will come out if i have it
just curious
-matt
Just a small update.
I have the remote datalogger working now via the switch terminal on the front. I did not buy Greddy's switch.. just made my own. All you need is a momentary (pulse type) switch and a 1/8" male stereo mini plug. Wire the switch up between the tip and the ground (base) on the plug. Then, you can start and stop the datalogger automatically on the EU with the switch without having the laptop in the car. One pulse to start, and another one to stop. While the EU is datalogging you will see the LED on the left change from steady green to a flashing yellow to confirm it's working. You do have to set the datalogging parameters and interval ahead of time (it's not unlimited like with the laptop connected). There are only 8 parameters allowable at once (max) and the recording interval (min 20ms) will determine the amount of time you can log.
It's interesting that a stereo plug is used, since it might theoretically allow 2 different switches to be used off the same plug, if the EU is wired internally for it. I am going to find out more about this. The software and manual are a bit ambiguous as remote switch, switch 1, switch 2, external switch, and just plain switch can be found listed for various features etc.
EDIT: I have an answer from Greddy. The stereo plug is only programmed for the tip, not the barrel. And switch 1 and 2 refer to the option ports. It is possible to use them as a switch via using an A/F harness although Greddy doesn't currently sell a switch for those ports. Switch, external switch, and remote switch all refer to the same 1/8" mini stereo port next to the serial port.
I have the remote datalogger working now via the switch terminal on the front. I did not buy Greddy's switch.. just made my own. All you need is a momentary (pulse type) switch and a 1/8" male stereo mini plug. Wire the switch up between the tip and the ground (base) on the plug. Then, you can start and stop the datalogger automatically on the EU with the switch without having the laptop in the car. One pulse to start, and another one to stop. While the EU is datalogging you will see the LED on the left change from steady green to a flashing yellow to confirm it's working. You do have to set the datalogging parameters and interval ahead of time (it's not unlimited like with the laptop connected). There are only 8 parameters allowable at once (max) and the recording interval (min 20ms) will determine the amount of time you can log.
It's interesting that a stereo plug is used, since it might theoretically allow 2 different switches to be used off the same plug, if the EU is wired internally for it. I am going to find out more about this. The software and manual are a bit ambiguous as remote switch, switch 1, switch 2, external switch, and just plain switch can be found listed for various features etc.
EDIT: I have an answer from Greddy. The stereo plug is only programmed for the tip, not the barrel. And switch 1 and 2 refer to the option ports. It is possible to use them as a switch via using an A/F harness although Greddy doesn't currently sell a switch for those ports. Switch, external switch, and remote switch all refer to the same 1/8" mini stereo port next to the serial port.
Another 2-step video (better than the first)
I have a recent video showing the 2-step launch limiter in action at the dragstrip for those who are interested. The setting was 6400 rpm. The video is actually a full pass down the track during a bracket event with a local Z car club but it does showcase the 2-step pretty well.
2-step from 6400 rpms at the dragstrip
2-step from 6400 rpms at the dragstrip
Sorry I guess the Indeo Codecs for Media Player are needed (I think they used to come standard with Windows but with XP SP2 might not...)
Click here to download the codec. Install it and it should work...
Click here to download the codec. Install it and it should work...
Using a Zeitronix WB with the EU
Copying some info from another thread...
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Regarding the Zeitronix WB with the Emanage Ultimate: the Zeitronix is not linear so the A/F ratio will be off on the Emanage Ultimate. The EU does allow you to set different ranges for different widebands, however it is all based on a linear output voltage curve, which the Zeitronix is not.
For example, with an LM-1 or LC-1, you could tell the EU that at 0v the A/F is 10 and at 5v it's 20, and then it will interpolate all values in between based on a linear relationship (so 2.5v would be 15 A/F). This works fine for those WB's because they have a linear output, but the Zeitronix is a bit different.
Here is the output curve for the Zeitronix (from their website):
EDIT: As of Sept 1/06 the new Zeitronix now has linear output! The info in this post will now only apply to older units!
Now having said that to scare you off (lol) it is possible to configure the EU to read the Zeitronix over a useful range. As you can see from the pic above, the Zt-2 is fairly linear from about 11 AFR to about 14.7 AFR, which is where most of your WOT tuning will take place. Below and above those points the accuracy will drop off quickly, but in between it should be fairly close, only off by a couple tenths or so. For example, the pic below shows the linear relationship (line in blue) the EU would assume if you set it to 0v=8 AFR and 5v=21.2 AFR. You can see it's a reasonable approximation, and you probably wouldn't be off by more than 2 tenths between 11 and 14.7.
For example, with an LM-1 or LC-1, you could tell the EU that at 0v the A/F is 10 and at 5v it's 20, and then it will interpolate all values in between based on a linear relationship (so 2.5v would be 15 A/F). This works fine for those WB's because they have a linear output, but the Zeitronix is a bit different.
Here is the output curve for the Zeitronix (from their website):
EDIT: As of Sept 1/06 the new Zeitronix now has linear output! The info in this post will now only apply to older units!
Now having said that to scare you off (lol) it is possible to configure the EU to read the Zeitronix over a useful range. As you can see from the pic above, the Zt-2 is fairly linear from about 11 AFR to about 14.7 AFR, which is where most of your WOT tuning will take place. Below and above those points the accuracy will drop off quickly, but in between it should be fairly close, only off by a couple tenths or so. For example, the pic below shows the linear relationship (line in blue) the EU would assume if you set it to 0v=8 AFR and 5v=21.2 AFR. You can see it's a reasonable approximation, and you probably wouldn't be off by more than 2 tenths between 11 and 14.7.
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Since I've been getting questions and it's come up in discussions, I'm going to post a couple reference pictures to keep everything in one thread.
IIRC Icey posted a similar pic of his elsewhere but the first pic below is my EU board, showing the resistors wired onto the 6 EU ignition input pins and grounded on the EU ground pin. The resistors will need to be added if a primary ignition signal code (P1320 (0201)) is thrown by the ECU. They should be around 330 to 370 ohms and either 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistors. Credit goes to John at J&S I believe for first suggesting this fix.
The second pic is my EU harness, showing the d-sub connectors I used for the install. I wanted a system whereby I could quickly and easily take the EU in and out several times, and the d-subs also have labelled pins, making the organization of the wiring easier. You will see there are two 25-pin connectors (mainly for all the input and outputs --ie intercepts) and one 15-pin connector for the taps. On the car side (ECU harness wiring) there is a similar setup to match. Therefore to remove the EU, all three connectors are pulled apart and the two larger connectors on the ECU side are simply put back together to complete each line's circuit. This was a good solution for me since I was testing and playing around a lot. Others may wish to go a different route but I just thought I'd post it in case anyone is interested since it has come up and people have asked me.
IIRC Icey posted a similar pic of his elsewhere but the first pic below is my EU board, showing the resistors wired onto the 6 EU ignition input pins and grounded on the EU ground pin. The resistors will need to be added if a primary ignition signal code (P1320 (0201)) is thrown by the ECU. They should be around 330 to 370 ohms and either 1/4 or 1/2 watt resistors. Credit goes to John at J&S I believe for first suggesting this fix.
The second pic is my EU harness, showing the d-sub connectors I used for the install. I wanted a system whereby I could quickly and easily take the EU in and out several times, and the d-subs also have labelled pins, making the organization of the wiring easier. You will see there are two 25-pin connectors (mainly for all the input and outputs --ie intercepts) and one 15-pin connector for the taps. On the car side (ECU harness wiring) there is a similar setup to match. Therefore to remove the EU, all three connectors are pulled apart and the two larger connectors on the ECU side are simply put back together to complete each line's circuit. This was a good solution for me since I was testing and playing around a lot. Others may wish to go a different route but I just thought I'd post it in case anyone is interested since it has come up and people have asked me.
So... did I just **** away $$ on a neo... b/c I cant do anything about ig. timing... b/c EmU is cheaper than afc and ecu flash...
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
What is a Neo?
No they have been delaying the release of the update because they keep adding various fixes/enhancements to it for several cars. I have seen version 1.15 "e" through "m" so far.
Converted to pressure sensor now, NO MAF
Well I got my conversion map programmed finally and today I went driving around just running off the pressure sensor, without the MAF hooked up. It worked very well. NO DRIVEABILITY PROBLEMS THAT I COULD DETECT AT ALL, and no MAF CEL either (the caps are for you Alex since you were skeptical about it... lol. 
Just kidding)
Of course I will have to retune everything now... timing, fuel, rev limit maps etc but I must have gotten pretty close with the rough maps I programmed since the rev limit extender worked somewhat ok on a few pulls to 7500 until my shifter support rod broke. I can't get the car in gear now at all. lol. (It's alright that problem has developed over the last couple weeks, I knew it was on the way out).
Will post more once I have a chance to more fully tune it and go for some additional test drives, but all the signs point to a successful conversion.
Just kidding)Of course I will have to retune everything now... timing, fuel, rev limit maps etc but I must have gotten pretty close with the rough maps I programmed since the rev limit extender worked somewhat ok on a few pulls to 7500 until my shifter support rod broke. I can't get the car in gear now at all. lol. (It's alright that problem has developed over the last couple weeks, I knew it was on the way out).
Will post more once I have a chance to more fully tune it and go for some additional test drives, but all the signs point to a successful conversion.
How the hell did the rod break? lol rusted? Maybe I should go cable shifter route 
Anyways, congrats on the MAP. Me and Jeremy need to get that runnin on his car if you have any tips And I need help with my revlimit
Anyways, congrats on the MAP. Me and Jeremy need to get that runnin on his car if you have any tips
And I need help with my revlimit
Is it possible to use this with the VE30DE? I have a JWT ECU right now and I HATE it. The raised rev limiter is nice but that's about it. They replaced the factory knock timing map with the same, agressive timing map they use for no knock conditions. If set the base timing to a factory advance of 15 degrees then it's pings like a **** an hot days. It seems to be ok when I pull it back 2 degrees. My motor only has roughly 85k mi. on it and it's as clean as a whistle.