That looks really nice! Go for the 2.87

 

how much did you get your intercooler for?

 

it was like $150 from a friend who had bought it brand new and just had it sitting in his garage taking up space

 

TJ max:

hey,

my paypal is teddibear703@yahoo.com

I can ship tomorrow if i get it today

thanks


BTW: ur box is full

 

well tj the 8psi isnt the issue, its having much cooler air which would allow u to advance timing to make better use of the 8psi as opposed to less timing and hot 10psi air

 

Would you say "good" timing @8psi is greater than/equal to less timing at 10psi?

Hope so as I just ordered my FMIC. I'm doing it because I'm giving up on performance and going for the show car look. But if this is STILL great for performance, then I might keep on trucking with the performance.

 

I would drop pulley sizes and have 10PSI of intercooled air.

 

Looks good SlamdMax98, it should definately help out in the TX heat.

 

True, but then you will never ever see 12psi ever. I want 12psi of intercooled air without that hazardous 2.62 pulley.

 

huh?? By adding the intercooler, you lost psi. To get to 12 psi intercooled, you're going to need the "hazardous" 2.62 to say the least. Hopefully, I'm understanding you correctly. And FTR, there is a 2.47 pulley available.

 

Ha ha, that's crazy. Don't we overspin the blower or something at 2.87? let alone 2.62 or 2.47. I was hoping 12psi is enough charge to KEEP the 12psi all the way through the FMIC to the TB. I always thought the more boost you are running with the IC, the less of a psi drop you get. I.E. at 10psi he lost like 1.5. but at 11psi, he would lose 1psi, and at 12psi he would lose only .5psi? I wonder if this is true. Maybe the physics guys can come in here and simplify what is in the 48 "Intercooled SC" stickies.

 

im not the best one to explian this since i have no experience with adjusting timing on a boosted maxima. but in a nut shell its like this, this get to hot then u run the risk of pre-ignition and detonation and some other things that may run amuck in a motor. but if ur able to cool the air enteriing ur tb then ur able to run the motor abit harder since u have a higher ceiling before u reach a point of trouble. so normally boosted guys tend to pull timing when they boost but if u can chill the air going into the tb back near ambient temps then u can add more timing to make up for the loss actual boost.

and i could be mistaken, since im still a bit drunk and having a hard time putting this together but u can fit more molecules of cooler air in a given space as opposed to the same air at a hotter temp. if wat i just typed is correct then running the 8psi chilled on its own should give u an added benifit aside from havig to add timing.


but as i said...im still a bit drunk so ill look this over later tonight an revise it if it comes off looking dumb or hard to follow

 

u lose a % of boost.
so is like some much boost entering the ic-remove- the % of boost drop cause by the ic= the amount of boost u see after the ic.

so if in some cases u run 10psi...and loose 2 thus u lost a 20% worth of boost due to the ic being there..u can work an equation from that which can roughly give u an idea of what u would lose at 12/14/16/18/20 psi

but since there should be no leaks in your system the actual amount of air from s/c to tb is the same regarless of u having the ic there. its just as the temps drop the pressure that same amount of air produces is decreased....i guess

 

makes sense to me, if i remember correctly when StephenMax had dynoed right after installing his intercooler on his s/c setup, his HP levels remained the same but he did lose a few ft-lbs of torque, but overall his temperatures were a lot cooler than they were before, especially down here in TX

 

Any preference in the piping to the IC? Diameter wise? 2.5" is standard? where should that blower outlet 2.75" to 2.5" reducer be put?

 

ive pretty much got a place racing cold air intake setup from the throttle body and down into the fender, and then everything else from the bov to the supercharger is 3" with a 3" inlet/outlet on the intercooler

 

Now I have to buy one off of friggin ebay since Jeff at Max tuning took ALL my extra parts during SC install.

 

just give him a call and see if he still has your parts sitting around somewhere, or if he has anything else that will get the job done for you

 

I called Jeff, he is gonna look for em. Since now he is moving. Cool guy .

 

i also have silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps... hehe

 

LOL, gee thanks for mentioning that now. If they are cheaper than on ebay, you might have a deal, lol.

 

well, i sell on egay too... lol and i'm the cheapest there

 

Subscribing. Thinking of doing a smaller intercooler so I can keep the bumper support. 13psi is going to be hot hot, especially in summer cali weather.

 

Get one from JdoubleOe703. I bought mine from him, came brand spankin new. It's got 2.75" inlet/outlet, 26X2.75X6. I test fitted it and I can even keep my fogs with this cooler. Fogs and bumper support. .

 

Cool. What are the flow specs for your intercooler?

 

I haven't even measured the cooler. I just started to polish it out the box, lol. Anyway, I think it is very similar/identical to the one on ebay. So i'm assuming it has the same flow specs:

All TIG Welded 6061 Aluminum.(PSi Drop under 0.2. Other Intercooler usually drop 10Psi Some are More) Max PSi is 30 Up to 400HP.Core Size: 22"x5.5"x2.5"Inlet OverAll Size: 27"x5.5"x2.5"Inlet.

I don't know where they get 400hp from. But anyway, those are the specs on the one that looks exactly like mine on ebay.

 

my intercooler is prepolished... was it not shiny enough??

anywways, i only had two intercoolers of that size. I have 2 larger ones though...

 

Yeah it was real shiny. But I got it to that mirrored polished look.

 

sweet... ....put a coat of clearcoat on it, or itll loose the luster quick....

 

very good idea. Thanks, will do tonight.

 

yeh you better clearcoat it so after i bust your a$$ the salt from your tears wont rust it,lol.just let me know when yor monster is ready,lol.

 

BTW, the most cost efficient way to do this is FMIC is get the place racing style intake from ebay for $24 shipped for the TB connection to the fender, then couple up the BOV flanged pipe there after a 45 degree bend toward the front of the car? Slammed can you give us a list of the bends, piping from TB to cooler, then cooler to blower? IE, place racing to 45 degree elbow to straight coupler, to straight bov pipe, to 45 degree bend to IC.... Or how much would I get charged to have this made for me?

 

 

Get a T trim so you can get 10 PSI from a 3.125. That will spin you up to min 13 PSI no intercooler.

 

and the T-trim will not have to work as hard to built the boost and push it through the IC. Its a lot beefier head unit....

 

Now, how much was the "upgrade" program? Looks like they are talking about giving only like $1,000 credit when you exchange your blower. WTFz.

 

It costs right at 1k for them to rebuild a V1 S-trim to a V1 T-trim spec. There is no exchanges the guts are replaced as well as the larger impellar and opening.

 

And v2 guys are just plain and simply put, SCREWED? :sigh:

 

You can just buy a V1 blower off ebay, send that in, and sell your V2. I did the opposite of that (V1 --> V2 blower).

 

Damn, you had the upgrade option right there in your hands! Dammit, anyone wanna trade?