2kSC

iTrader: (1)

It finally happened, I shredded one rib after 2 years and 20k of driving with a sc.
How long do you guys think I have left on my 5 ribs? it seems like too much of a PITA to change just for one rid, should I wait until it shreds another rib?.... What could have caused the gatorback to shred only one rib? is the belt getting old and needs to be replaced? I do not have the right tools for this job, will any mechanic be willing to do this? How long would this take for a good mechanic?

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

I've driven around with 5 out of 6 ribs for quite a while. No biggie.
Check the belt for glazing and cracks. That will determine if the belt is getting too old.

The V2 mounting plate is made of aluminum and with exposure to heat it can flex, no matter that additional washers were added to shim. After nearly 6 years I've had too many belt shredding this year and have bought matty's steel mounting plate as a result.

You should learn how to dismantle and reinstall the S/C. Its good for you to learn how everything is put together. Takes me 4 hours in total to dismantle and reinstall the S/C. I have a Sears ratchet set, jack and jackstands, lights, latex gloves and the Stillen instructions to do the job.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I don't think you have much time left on the belt. A loose belt could have caused the belt to jump and get shredded. Also, check the bolt holding the tensioner pulley and make sure it's not loose. This is not normal for the belt to go after 2 years and 20k miles. If you want to take your chances, that's fine, but have the OEM belt on hand and a ratchet, flex elbow, long extension, and a 14mm socket to adjust the tensioner. That will get you home so you're not stranded.

I suggest you get the right tools for the job (you don't need that many) and do it yourself. Putting the tensioner pulley and all it's components can be a little tricky. I would also want to make sure it was done right. (ie make sure the plate goes back on flush to motor and ALL bolts go back in) I don't think any mechanic will want to do this, you'll have to call around and see. I'd say a really really good mechanic can do the job in 2-3 hours.

If you need a list of tools to do the job yourself, just let us know. Also, are you aware of Ptatohed's Supercharger instructions? This would definately help you. Tons of pictures and helpful information.

2kSC

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for quick responses!!!
You made up my mind, if this job takes like 4 hours it will be worth it to get the right tools and do it myself. I know how the set up works...I can picture taking it apart in my head.
I am going to Goodyear and Sears this weekend. What tools should I get at sears? I would imagine that some sort of a swirl socket would be a great for this job...extensions set…allen set…ratchet set (i gat a crappy one)…anything else? Should I change the oil while I am doing this, to prevent spillage? Or is it possible to change belt without removing the oil feed line???
Thanks in advance

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

You only need to unscrew the oil feed line from the blower. Tape up both ends so crap can't get into them.

Draining the oil is unecessary. Only a little will drip from the oil return hose when you remove the blower. This would happen whether you drained the oil or not. Pretty much all of the oil the runs through your car sits in the oil pan when not running and everything has had time to cool off/drain.

As far as tools, here's what you need off the top of my head.
ratcheting metric wrenches (if on a budget, normal wrenches will do)
allen wrenches
a long pipe to go over the allen wrenches to increase the torque (removing the allen wrench bolts that hold the blower to the mounting plate is a b!tch)
Basic metric ratchet and socket set
Flexible elbow (for the belt tensioner)
An assortment of extensions
Jack
Jack stands
Ptatohed's writeup found on VQPower.com
Patience
4-6 hours for your first time

Note the following:
the route of the belt
which bolts went where

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

Note: don't rush the job. Take it nice and slow. Do it once and you're a pro!

Since you have the V2 plate, just giving you a heads up about that stupid flathead allen bolt underneath the tensioner pulley. I first ducttapped an allen key to the open end of my Sears screwdriver to take it off but there's a much better way:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=486491

I also got from Sears this flex-cable screwdriver so I can tighten the oil return hose clamp around the oil return outlet underneath the blower. I use a small mirror to see as well.