Switching V2 to V1 not as easy as I thought
10-14-2006, 06:14 PM
#1
Switching V2 to V1 not as easy as I thought
First problem I encountered was that the alternator has to swing up towards the engine more to have the top bolt hole line up with the plate. I just have to buy another extension tomorrow so I can ratchet it loose. I could have broken the end facing the drive belt with a longer 5/8" open wrench as that was the pivot point. When the store carried only 6 point and 12 point sockets I had no idea why there wasn't any 4 point sockets! 
Second problem I encountered is that the top of the alternator above the bolt hole may have to be shaved to clear the new thermostat after the alternator has pivoted or else cut shorter the hose so that it doesn't interfere.
Gonna be fun tomorrow!
Second problem I encountered is that the top of the alternator above the bolt hole may have to be shaved to clear the new thermostat after the alternator has pivoted or else cut shorter the hose so that it doesn't interfere.
Gonna be fun tomorrow!
10-14-2006, 07:03 PM
#2
Yup, you remove the stock upper/front alternator support bracket and bolt the alternator directly to the plate. I also had to shave the top of the alternator bolt hole for it to clear. Good luck with the install!
10-14-2006, 07:21 PM
#3
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Man o Man. Your Killing My MOJO Man !!! haha. Way to post up a link that kills my name..lol
Your first problem isnt a problem. You just need to get under the car with a screw driver and a hammer and just slightly tap the alternator till it lines with the hole. Just mount the plate on there with one or two bolts, just for lineing up issues. Once you have it lined up good, you can finish it all up.
And your second problem isnt even a problem at all, that is just part of the V1 install. Simply take a dremel with a Aluminum shave head on it and just shave that top post down a bit or yank the alternator and take it to a bench grinder. I went with option one till I bought my New alternator. Then I did it on the bench. Not "Problems", just "Steps" !!!!
Please post pics when you're done to make up for this poor thread.
-matt
Your first problem isnt a problem. You just need to get under the car with a screw driver and a hammer and just slightly tap the alternator till it lines with the hole. Just mount the plate on there with one or two bolts, just for lineing up issues. Once you have it lined up good, you can finish it all up.
And your second problem isnt even a problem at all, that is just part of the V1 install. Simply take a dremel with a Aluminum shave head on it and just shave that top post down a bit or yank the alternator and take it to a bench grinder. I went with option one till I bought my New alternator. Then I did it on the bench. Not "Problems", just "Steps" !!!!
Please post pics when you're done to make up for this poor thread.
-matt
10-15-2006, 06:29 AM
#4
Matty, I think you've misunderstood me. I don't know why you think I'm putting your kit down at all here but I'm merely pointing out some things that have me totally frustrated.
The point I'm making here is that I haven't found a good thread that points out things to watch out for while making the switch from a V2 plate to a V1 plate. I know that others have bought your upgrade kit and have installed it. There is knowledge out there, so requesting assistance from the knowledgable ones can't be a poor thread.
It may not appear to be a problem to you but it is a problem to me when I thought that I could have had this done yesterday but the car is still up on jacks. I'm justified in asking for assistance here because I spent too much time scratching my head wondering how it is mounted. I'm stuck despite my experience taking the V2 off and putting it back on many times before and I've never had to deal with moving the alternator before. My Haynes manual isn't clear on the alternator bolt location (it has a pic showing an arrow pointing to the wrong end of the bolt!) and Google barely helped me to find out more information on the org. I've already tried the hammer method but its not moving. I was about to use a 5/8" open wrench on that tack-welded nut and destroy it, thanks to Haynes. I'm going to try tapping the alternator with a sledgehammer shortly.
I will post up pics shortly.
The point I'm making here is that I haven't found a good thread that points out things to watch out for while making the switch from a V2 plate to a V1 plate. I know that others have bought your upgrade kit and have installed it. There is knowledge out there, so requesting assistance from the knowledgable ones can't be a poor thread.
It may not appear to be a problem to you but it is a problem to me when I thought that I could have had this done yesterday but the car is still up on jacks. I'm justified in asking for assistance here because I spent too much time scratching my head wondering how it is mounted. I'm stuck despite my experience taking the V2 off and putting it back on many times before and I've never had to deal with moving the alternator before. My Haynes manual isn't clear on the alternator bolt location (it has a pic showing an arrow pointing to the wrong end of the bolt!) and Google barely helped me to find out more information on the org. I've already tried the hammer method but its not moving. I was about to use a 5/8" open wrench on that tack-welded nut and destroy it, thanks to Haynes. I'm going to try tapping the alternator with a sledgehammer shortly.
I will post up pics shortly.
Originally Posted by matty
Man o Man. Your Killing My MOJO Man !!! haha. Way to post up a link that kills my name..lol
Your first problem isnt a problem. You just need to get under the car with a screw driver and a hammer and just slightly tap the alternator till it lines with the hole. Just mount the plate on there with one or two bolts, just for lineing up issues. Once you have it lined up good, you can finish it all up.
And your second problem isnt even a problem at all, that is just part of the V1 install. Simply take a dremel with a Aluminum shave head on it and just shave that top post down a bit or yank the alternator and take it to a bench grinder. I went with option one till I bought my New alternator. Then I did it on the bench. Not "Problems", just "Steps" !!!!
Please post pics when you're done to make up for this poor thread.
-matt
Your first problem isnt a problem. You just need to get under the car with a screw driver and a hammer and just slightly tap the alternator till it lines with the hole. Just mount the plate on there with one or two bolts, just for lineing up issues. Once you have it lined up good, you can finish it all up.
And your second problem isnt even a problem at all, that is just part of the V1 install. Simply take a dremel with a Aluminum shave head on it and just shave that top post down a bit or yank the alternator and take it to a bench grinder. I went with option one till I bought my New alternator. Then I did it on the bench. Not "Problems", just "Steps" !!!!
Please post pics when you're done to make up for this poor thread.
-matt
10-15-2006, 06:39 AM
#5
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Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Nah yea I was just kidding before.
You can still move the alt even if its 100% tight. Just get underneath with a screw driver and hammer and slighty tap it up. NO need to loosen that inner bolt. You can reach it without removing that front A/C peice that blocks you. Trust me, get underneath and slightly tap it
-matt
You can still move the alt even if its 100% tight. Just get underneath with a screw driver and hammer and slighty tap it up. NO need to loosen that inner bolt. You can reach it without removing that front A/C peice that blocks you. Trust me, get underneath and slightly tap it
-matt
10-15-2006, 08:09 AM
#10
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Originally Posted by BlackCat
If I don't cut the hose shorter at the marked line there'll be a kink in the hose just before the hose enters the radiator
Originally Posted by BlackCat
Despite that Haynes points to this bolt, do not attempt to turn it!
10-15-2006, 02:16 PM
#11
Now that I've mounted the blower back on, I noticed that when I tried to tighten the belt with the Stillen belt tensioner the belt was still loose. I'm using the 3.125" pulley and Gates K60705 belt. Is the belt route different between the V1 and V2?
10-15-2006, 02:17 PM
#12
Originally Posted by BlackCat
Now that I've mounted the blower back on, I noticed that when I tried to tighten the belt with the Stillen belt tensioner the belt was still loose. I'm using the 3.125" pulley and Gates K60705 belt.
10-15-2006, 02:22 PM
#13
Originally Posted by ewuzh
You should be using the OEM belt tensioner with the V1 setup. The belt seems like it might be a bit long for that size pulley too. I ran a -695 belt with 3.48" on V1 plate.
So even with the OEM belt tensioner the K060705 is still too long and I have to tear it down again?
10-15-2006, 02:32 PM
#14
Originally Posted by BlackCat
Ahh I thought so!
So even with the OEM belt tensioner the K060705 is still too long and I have to tear it down again?
So even with the OEM belt tensioner the K060705 is still too long and I have to tear it down again?
10-15-2006, 02:41 PM
#15
Originally Posted by ewuzh
Unfortunately, the -705 belt is roughly for 3.48" to 3.6" pulleys. -695 is for 3.125" to 3.48". I think it will be too loose with the -705
Gates belt sizes for V2:
3.60 to 3.33 - K060710
3.25 to 3.125 - K060705
3.00 to 2.87 - K060703
So I'll need a K060695 belt? I hope NAPA is still open!
10-15-2006, 03:23 PM
#16
Originally Posted by BlackCat
Crap, I just reviewed the stickies:
Gates belt sizes for V2:
3.60 to 3.33 - K060710
3.25 to 3.125 - K060705
3.00 to 2.87 - K060703
So I'll need a K060695 belt? I hope NAPA is still open!
Gates belt sizes for V2:
3.60 to 3.33 - K060710
3.25 to 3.125 - K060705
3.00 to 2.87 - K060703
So I'll need a K060695 belt? I hope NAPA is still open!
3.6 (stock).......4060705 6PK1790 70 1/2"--71 1/4"
3.33................4060705 6PK1790 70 1/2"--71 1/4"
3.48................4060705 6PK1790 70 1/2"--71 1/4"
3.25................4060695 6PK1765 69 1/2"--70 1/4"
3.125..............4060695 6PK1765 69 1/2"--70 1/4"
3.00................4060690 6PK1755 69 "--69 3/4"
2.87................4060690 6PK1755 69 "--69 3/4"
10-16-2006, 07:50 AM
#20
I've always wondered if there would be any hiccups going from a V2 plate to Matty's V1 plate. I was aware of the few minor issues you were having, so it appears that there aren't any new surprises (to me, anyway). That's great news!! Glad to hear you got the beast up and running again. 
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