I re-posted here because the 4th gen forums seem pre-occupied with polls about what type of hood to buy and **** like that... .

This problem occurred both before and after I boosted. About 2 months ago the car stalled as I was driving at a very low speed (almost a crawl). CEL, all lights were lit up, etc. The first time, it refused to start and stay running unless the throttle was held open. If the throttle was allowed to do what it does normally (i.e., the car was left to idle) the car stalled out.

This problem solved itself; I also had a dead battery at the time and a week later when I replaced the battery, the problem didn't repeat itself. Alternator output was tested at that time and found to be o.k.

Tonight, as I was driving home under similar circumstances, the car did the exact same thing at a low speed (again, amost a crawl, but no faster than 15 mph, as I was coming out of a left turn). The car stalled, though I did not notice until I started turning the wheel and noticed that power steering was gone. I looked at the guages and, of course, all the lights were lit up, my stereo was still blasting, etc. The car was on an incline, so I rolled to the side of the road to a slow stop, which took about 6 minutes. I then started the car, and it fired right up. (I am boosted now, btw, whereas before when this happened I was not.) One of the first things I did upon starting and getting the car moving was to take the car up to about 2000 rpm- when I let off the throttle, my rpms dropped to almost 200 rpm, and rebounded back to about 1000. I am an auto, BTW... so if you want to flame me, don't bother about disengaging the clutch wrong ...

What the HELL is going on?
Update

I pulled the following codes from the ECU (99 Cali-spec auto)

P1165 Swirl Control Valve Control Vacuum Check Switch (only for California)
P1130 Swirl Control Valve Control Solenoid Valve (only for California)
P1105 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)/ Barometric Pressure (BARO) Switch Solenoid Valve

I am still not sure why this would have caused the same set of symptoms both times, though I admit didn't check codes the first time and the lack of a battery may have cleared the codes, if any, the first time.

I think the third is directly related to the fact that I am boosted... so for now I will ignore it.

Any ideas?


Second update...

The condition occurs when I get on the throttle, take it up really quickly and get off of it without any delay. In other words, when the throttle isn't partly released but TOTALLY released, the rpms drop to nothing and the car stalls out. Sort of like taking a car with a manual transmission, putting it into first gear, and letting out the clutch REALLY fast.

Anyone got any ideas?

 

Your problem sounds like the problem I had when I built a custom CAI and had a freakin huge filter on it. Once I shortened the length of my CAI, and ditched the oversized huge filter, all my problems went away. I'm still trying to understand how you had the problem before being boosted and after. My only guess right now is that your MAF is screwed up. Curious to see what the outcome is....

 

One last thing. I can get the problem to repeat itself almost ON DEMAND while the car is rolling. I simply bring the car up to 2500 rpm or above VERY quickly, and then suddenly let off the throttle. The rpms drop out, and the car stalls immediately. This is a common scenario in left turns from a standing stop for me, so it's incredibly annoying when I have to let off the throttle quickly coming out of a turn...

However... I can't duplicate the problem while the car is sitting still in park. Under the same set of conditions (throttle to 2.5k+, quick release) the rpms drop to about 500-600 rpm, then almost imperceptibly bounce for a millisecond as though the needle has hit a wall. The car then idles normally. Were the car moving, the same behavior would stall it. This almost makes it seem like a transmission problem, but that makes absolutely NO sense...

 

It sounds like an Air Issue. IACV might be dead. Its not "catching" in terms of the RPMS dropping and just stalling.

Also might be a vaccum leak somewhere.

-matt

 

i, having this problem too. and ever since the first time it happened i havent had heat and its winter. but it also doesnt really matter cuz i got my liscence pulled for 30 days. but i wanna get it fixed before i am able to drive again.

 

Damn. i blew a head gasket! well.now may be as good a time as any for a 3.5 swap. lol pretty much the lazy mans backasswards way to get it fixed. hmmmmmmmm....i may do one thogh. im seriously contemplating one. it would be my first. and i may be the first highschooler to do one.