Cheap turbo....why?
Cheap turbo....why?
I found this on ebay, apparently new but why is this turbo less money than a blow off valve???? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA:IT&ih=019
Not just this one, theres a ton of turbos on ebay for like 200-300 new. Am i missing something. While i have your attention, which a/r is it that makes the bigger impact on turbo response, compressor or turbine? Im basically looking for a t3 or t3/t4 that will start spooling at around 2000-2300rpm, and full boost by 3500. I was thinking .60a/r but then i noticed there are two a/r's.
Not just this one, theres a ton of turbos on ebay for like 200-300 new. Am i missing something. While i have your attention, which a/r is it that makes the bigger impact on turbo response, compressor or turbine? Im basically looking for a t3 or t3/t4 that will start spooling at around 2000-2300rpm, and full boost by 3500. I was thinking .60a/r but then i noticed there are two a/r's.
From the best way that I understand it/ could explain it,
-Compressor size and A/R will determine the turbo's ability to feed air into the motor. The bigger, then more air
*But the compressor is driven by the turbine, sooo...
-Turbine size and A/R will determine how fast it spools. Dont want to go to big because the spool wont happen for a while, dont want to go too small and it spools up super quick, but dies off at the top end because its so small it becomes a restriction to exhaust flow
So really its not the size of the individual component, its the combo of the two working together that will make a good setup. But for all practical purposes, a 1.15a/r turbine is huge for us, unless its on a ball bearing GT turbo.
-Compressor size and A/R will determine the turbo's ability to feed air into the motor. The bigger, then more air
*But the compressor is driven by the turbine, sooo...
-Turbine size and A/R will determine how fast it spools. Dont want to go to big because the spool wont happen for a while, dont want to go too small and it spools up super quick, but dies off at the top end because its so small it becomes a restriction to exhaust flow
So really its not the size of the individual component, its the combo of the two working together that will make a good setup. But for all practical purposes, a 1.15a/r turbine is huge for us, unless its on a ball bearing GT turbo.
To answer your first question, it only takes one word: China. Stay FAR away from these turbos unless you want to replace your engine soon. A cheap knockoff is NOT something you want to use when it comes to a turbocharger.
Can someone still suggest a turbo and A/R's that will provide an early boost as 97maximaman described so that i can search for the correct turbo... maybe his request is a little low on the top end ... something that has full boost at 4000 would be nice.
Ok, so knock-offs = bad. I wasnt trying to cheap out, i estimated roughly 700-800 for a decent turbo, maybe used. I've seen a few OBX turbos that are decent that i might look into. So just to clear up, im not a cheap *** i just wanted clarification as to why i see so many turbos in this price range.
As for the A/R, i know alot of turbo guys go for power in the high rpms, but i dont drive like that, i do absolutely 0 miles on the highway, so most of my driving wont be able to utilize a large a/r turbo. I was looking at mostly t3 .63a/r turbos, but im just not sure what to expect from something that size.
KEEP THE RACIAL COMMENTS TO YOURSELF.
As for the A/R, i know alot of turbo guys go for power in the high rpms, but i dont drive like that, i do absolutely 0 miles on the highway, so most of my driving wont be able to utilize a large a/r turbo. I was looking at mostly t3 .63a/r turbos, but im just not sure what to expect from something that size.
KEEP THE RACIAL COMMENTS TO YOURSELF.
my advice... stop shopping ebay for turbos. buy from a real brick & mortar vendor locally. you might pay a bit more for it even, but in the event said turbo blows up right after install or you have issues with it or simply need advice, you can go to said local vendor and get it taken care of.
do that with cheapmadeinchinafleabayturbos.com and you will get a crap product that doesn't work like it's supposed to, fittings to fit right and you have leaks from the get-go. then you try to contact them for customer service.. I can hear it now. "Haroo? Sowwy. No speeka de Engrish. [click]"
do that with cheapmadeinchinafleabayturbos.com and you will get a crap product that doesn't work like it's supposed to, fittings to fit right and you have leaks from the get-go. then you try to contact them for customer service.. I can hear it now. "Haroo? Sowwy. No speeka de Engrish. [click]"
Lol, ok, i'll do some more looking. There arent any local places that carry turbo stuff, i already looked. i had no idea obx is chinese. Just by the looks of there website i would've sworn it was japanese. But you guys know more than me!
Holsets are some awesome turboes that you can get cheap on ebay. Most are in great condition and some just need a simple rebuild. Unless you're aiming for a ton of power, an HX35/HY35 is the largest you'd need... and luckily the most common.
As a Maxima.org "noob", I'm far from it as far as turbocharged cars are concerned (over 20 years experience).
Different animal but on one of my cars (Dodge Daytona IROC RT 2.2 16v DOHC) it came stock with a relatively decent turbo capable of about 300hp (stock is 224hp). Very fast and decent gas mileage. I got a really good deal a while back on a Precision Turbo 50 trim stage III t3/t4 dbb turbo. Let's just say I will never go back to "regular" turbos. This thing, even at stock boost (11psi) is a different animal. Ball bearings do make a difference.
My point is, like it was stated earlier is if you're going to find a "bargain" do it right and do it from a reputable turbo place or maybe someone on the ORG, etc. that has a decent used one. You'll thank yourself in the end. I've seen people on my other forums get tempted by "Ebay turbos" and they ended up paying for it in the end. It looks good, but once you've seen one in person compared to a good turbo.....'nuf said.
Different animal but on one of my cars (Dodge Daytona IROC RT 2.2 16v DOHC) it came stock with a relatively decent turbo capable of about 300hp (stock is 224hp). Very fast and decent gas mileage. I got a really good deal a while back on a Precision Turbo 50 trim stage III t3/t4 dbb turbo. Let's just say I will never go back to "regular" turbos. This thing, even at stock boost (11psi) is a different animal. Ball bearings do make a difference.
My point is, like it was stated earlier is if you're going to find a "bargain" do it right and do it from a reputable turbo place or maybe someone on the ORG, etc. that has a decent used one. You'll thank yourself in the end. I've seen people on my other forums get tempted by "Ebay turbos" and they ended up paying for it in the end. It looks good, but once you've seen one in person compared to a good turbo.....'nuf said.
Im thinking about it more an more and at 5 psi i dont think these turbos are in any danger, at 9-10 psi thats where i can believe they will cause issues. And then again if im wrong, it'll be a real good excuse to vq35.
Wow, you have managed to convince yourself that your own cheapness is okay, way to go. Forget the MULTIPLE incidence of these turbos failing in the first couple thousand of miles, your only going to run low boost, so you will be fine. 
For some reason, it still amazes me that people come on here, asking for help, then completely ignore ANY advice given to them. Why did you even bother to post in the first place? Do us all a favor and DO NOT post about your cheap turbos here anymore, your thread WILL be deleted.

For some reason, it still amazes me that people come on here, asking for help, then completely ignore ANY advice given to them. Why did you even bother to post in the first place? Do us all a favor and DO NOT post about your cheap turbos here anymore, your thread WILL be deleted.
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