Congrats. Cant wait to see some pics!

 

I didnt read the whole thread but did you end up using the exact setup that is in your original post?

 

You told me your restrictor is like .065 or something? try getting a smaller restrictor. mine is .040 (should NOT go any smaller than that or turbo will run dry). After doing alot of asking around and reading on different forums, the common problem is the feel pressure being to high. so get a .056 restrictor, then a .040 if needed. also, you need to have a cracking check valve on the feed right before the turbo. do u have one? When car is off, the oil feed is going to leak oil into the turbo. so if u leave it over night or something ur turbo ends up all flooded, when u turn it on u get a nice little cloud of smoke. IM me later to talk more bout it

 

Dude my turbo seals are f'd up. I need a rebuild.

I have a restrictor in there as well as a check valve and my timer set at 2:30.

Smoking like im burning out at WOT, even on the freeway. LOTS of oil burn.

 

btw. leaking oil in both compressor and turbing housings.

Oil pump works 100%

 

LOL! I knew you were going to **** something up without running oil to your turbo.

 

do u kno history of the turbo before u bought it?
Wats the size of the hose on ur return (from turbo to pump).

 

Please, do tell. How long was it ran with no oil? any WOT passes while under this oil-less situation?

 

A few days. He drove about 30 mins to a friends house.

 

Yea, that will kill the turbo lol. overheated that shet.

 

But I don't know everything, so you should wait until he comes in here to explain

 

oh boy :-X. Yea time to rebuild, siiiiiiiiigh

 

As promised for you fat kids. Here are some pictures:

 

 

 

Here's a video of a 7.5psi boosted run:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTlw7L3mMFo

 

Looks Great and Sounds Great! It's nice to see it running strong.

Sorry about the Turbo/oil problem.

Can you install a 90 degree connector to the turbo so that oil line doesn't have to hang down so low?

 

damn man, its a very clean install, i must give props on the attention to detail. However, I donot like at all how low that oil outlet line hangs so low. Thats my only concern. Actually all your lines need to be tied a bit higher, too much slack for my comfort. Maybe its because my car is so freakin low that Im kinda paranoid of that, lol

 

word brotha.

I gotta mount them better - its all saggy and shiz.

 

ya i just told him i didnt like that either. convinced him to also run the hoses on the other side like my oil return. cuz going under the catback eventually is going to touch and burn thru them. so happy this is actually done. im proud of you son!!! lol. RMT #2 FTW.

 

question, what clutch are you running?

 

ACT Stage 1 HDSS with Fidanza flywheel.

 

what was the final cost of this project if you dont mind me asking

 

Im curious of this too. Mine including what I still have pending is coming out to a hair over $1,100 ($1,096.22 as of right now, but find myself once again in need of more clamps, lol)

edit- nevermind! that didnt include injectors. All in all, its coming out to around $1,350... heheh :-D

MaxBoost? Is that backfire I hear when you let off after shifting? Sounds sexay

 

congrats on the build, what rpm are hittinh full boost

 

Nah, no backfire in that video. I think my cameraman hit my seat.

I spent A LOT of money - i'd say $3000+ including electronics.



Yesterday I installed my 440cc Deatchwerks injectors - but my car is running on 5 cylinders.

I'm 100% sure I installed them correctly, snap rings were on, the fuel lines were secure, rails bolted to the lower intake manifold, all hoses secure.

I replaced my coilpacks with new ones about 4-5 months ago.

My OEM platinum plugs are about a year old, lots of low AFR driving though, very rich the whole time. Could they be fouled? Before my 440cc swap, my car was running like a champ with my DEK injectors.


Any input? Help Neal?


btw, my PLX reads like ~12.5 AFR at idle at -5% fuel correction. But that's 5 clyinders so I don't think thats accurate, lots of smoke coming out my exhaust - smells like gas.

 

check your injector o-rings. the misfiring cylinder could be drowning out. pull each coil until you find one that doesnt change the idle.thats the cyl your not firing in. check the spark plug and o-ring on the injector for that cylinder. i can say its almost 99% the reason

 

Injectors were flow tested and individually packed, the o-rings looked good to me when I snapped them in.

 

Nice setup man. i have started to burn oil on decel. Its not my motor before any one says that. I have ran without my charge pipe hooked up and get not one bit of smoke. but hey the 125 dollar turbo lived its life well lol.

 

Sounds like it's not the injectors.

You say it's only hitting 5 cylinders?
Have you narrowed it down to a cylinder?
If so, Check the connections x2 and voltage that the coil and injectors are getting on that cylinder.

 

Have you replaced the turbo yet?

 

How do you know that its running on 5 cylinders? have you poin pointed which one it is? Try disconnecting the coils invididually while the car is on and see if idle changes. when you disconnect one of them and idle stays the same. then you found your dead cylinder. after that, I suggest you swap coils with another and see if now the new cylinder is dead, to make sure its not your coil. Also, you should have changed the plugs before you started this project, purchase 2-step colder NGK copper plugs please.

 

yup. 57 trim instead of 60.

 

i didn't know you were turbo'd now - hadn't checked this thread in a long time. do what streetz said to determine which cylinder is misfiring but buy 1 step colder plugs, 2 step colder is not necessary.

 

Co-signed.

 

But 2step wont hurt either. His non-intercooled, at 8psi. I would go 2step.

 

Saw this setup in person today and it looked real clean. Nice work there! I'm surprised that you have traction in first at WOT--must have nice sticky tires.

 

Thats probably because boost dosnt come in instant and gradually goes up. im at 312whp and i dont have traction problems for the same reason.

 

You are automatic though, so your 1st gear is longer (iir). My boost comes on insanely gradually (6psi on a SC), yet first breaks loose near the top of the power band, and I've read of (as well as driven) 3.5 swaps that breaks loose in 1st and 2nd (at the top of the power band). Maybe I need to get some polyurethane bushings.

 

so if one was to put two turbos in the rear, would one need two scavenge pumps or would a single one suffice?