pictures of my turbo build
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I bought a 1/2" steel weld on bung that im going to weld onto the lower oil pan. People say its better to do the oil drain in the upper oil pan but it's a huge pain in the a$$ to take it off so i'm just going to do it in the lower oil pan.
maybe you can drop the lower oil pan, drill a hole in the upper oil pan (at the section where accessible via lower oil pan removal) and weld a nipple onto it........just a thought, since the oil kinda relies on gravity.......kinda like filling a pool with the end of the hose submerged vs. the end of the hose above the waterline.........hope it helps
Is it a pain for turbo guys to use a timing cover type return like us SC guys use? I understand that its not nearly as conveniently located for you guys as it is for us, but you could avoid tapping your oil pan.
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I don't think tapping the valve cover for oil return will work. the oil drain on the turbo is lower than the valve cover. You need gravity to return the oil.
I was just thinking about how some of the turbo guys tap the oil cap. I believe this is how maxboost has his rmt setup done. Isn't it pushed out by pressure?
I was intimidated by doing the upper, but it can be done without removing it from the car. Drilled the hole, made sure the majority of the shavings where not going in the pan, then I got some cheap oil from walmart and flushed it with that to remove any suspected shavings, change your oil and you are set. Only time will tell how it goes with just tapping the lower, but then again I have not heard of anyone having any problems. You would have to check the stats of those who have blown turbo seals versus which pan they tapped.
Is the water pump cover really higher than the turbo oil drain? If that's the case, then you're right that it wouldn't work.
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no I have not started making the feed pipe or the down pipe yet. I have all the pre bent pipes to do it but just haven't got around to do it yet. I have way to many customer cars that I'm working on right now so I really don't have time to work on the maxima.
Since you're going for the uber clean look of welds vs couplers, I'd like to suggest having the charge piping parallel, or in other words, on the same plane as the engine/ground. It appears that it slowly rises from right to left before it goes into the fender area. I'd make it flat across so it looks like it was suppose to be there.
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Since you're going for the uber clean look of welds vs couplers, I'd like to suggest having the charge piping parallel, or in other words, on the same plane as the engine/ground. It appears that it slowly rises from right to left before it goes into the fender area. I'd make it flat across so it looks like it was suppose to be there. 

Just a few questions...What kind of numbers are you looking for and at what boost level? What size injectors are you using? What maf sensor are you using or are you keeping the max one? And I am assuming that you'll be using a EU for engine management?
Everything looks pretty nice so far.
Everything looks pretty nice so far.
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Just a few questions...What kind of numbers are you looking for and at what boost level? What size injectors are you using? What maf sensor are you using or are you keeping the max one? And I am assuming that you'll be using a EU for engine management?
Everything looks pretty nice so far.
Everything looks pretty nice so far.












