He has the 16cm but it's a modified t4 turbo. This is his cousin lol.

 

Don't you think your small pre-turbo exhaust piping and compressor piping has something to do with it? I just remembered that you kept it small in the interest of quicker spool-up but that might hurt things when the boost is turned up.

 

Well the preturbo piping is 2.5" which is I think what most feed pipes are on front mount turbo's, i never had intentions to change the ypipe/catback piping. The charge pipe of 2", I would like to have it 2.5 at least but ground clearance does not cooparate too well, however 2" charge piping is sufficient for even upto mid/high 600hp (as per built 350z's with standard STS kits which have 2" piping)

 

16cm?! interseting. my **** is 18cm!!! lol Lets swap housings brian (too bad hx40 and hx50+ center sections arent the same)

 

SO streets what kind of power did you make on the hx35 and what psi. I made 330whp and 358lb at 11.5 psi

 

I never dyno'ed so all I have is guesstimation lol and comparing vs. other cars iv raced.

 

ok so what do you think you made

 

Well I was able to stay side by side, maybe slightly walk an M5 (the 400hp older model not new v10 one), considering those beast's are made for the highway and weight is really not that much of a factor at higher speeds, id say that puts me up in the very high 300s maybe low 400's, actually after racing the M5 (we did like 4 runs, all same result side by side slightly walking him), I discovered that at lower boost the car was actually alot faster, then upgraded the intercooler as well as improved my charge piping and car was day and night different (better), so id say after the improvements i did, low 400's. but its just estimation.

 

You didnt make 400 since you have no proof lol. I still trapped higher than you with less power. Catch up fooo lol.

 

I said it was estimation, i can say i made 500 and its still an estimate dont need proof. what trap u talking bout son, I havent been to the 1/4 track in like 2 years.

 

1/8th trap or quarter dont matter lol.

 

I wondering why the dodge trucks run 30 and 40 psi on these turbos!5.9 lt disel

 

Remember that them 5.9's only rev to about 2500RPM, our VQ's rev to 6500. If you do the math a 3.5L @ 6k flows more CFM than a 5.9L @ 2.5k. If I remember correctly when I did the calculations at around 4k is when 3.5L starts out outflow the 5.9.

You cant compare the boost level of a completely different motor with our own motor, there are many factors that come into play that will make the turbo run out of efficiency. I am no expert though, so I am just speaking from my little bit of experience.

 

get that ting on dee dyno and to a track mon. Also did you call or email about that converter i installed? Im able to flash it to 2800 now.

 

MegaFAIL

 

Dam Streetz, time to Dyno and do the tranny . You ran the same psi high compression engines (stock) run, how do you figure you made more power at a lower compression?and with less timing? just thinking outloud here . did you ever figure out what hp a 2 inch pipe will flow? bc in theory, you minus well have a 2inch throttlebody no? everyone here just wants to see you make the numbers already dude me being one of them

 

On his setup the 2 inch really isnt that bad and can flow enough to make 5-600hp as proven on 350z's,I wanted him to dyno so he could see what he picked up going from one turbo to the next. With out it he doesnt know if he truly gained anything.

 

Everyone hating on me now lol.

Alvaro the 2" piping is good for my goal. on the 3.0 I didnt have less timing, i had stock timing with the meth. 10psi gave me 312whp, smaller IC, less efficient charge piping, all which has been upgraded. at 11-12psi with the hx35 I wouldnt doubt it was at least in the high 300's, eddy dyno'ed 370something at 9psi while knocking at stock timing. at my boost with also stock timing, plus methanol and a few PSI more, should be up there in HP. Dosnt really matter, different turbo now, different boost, no more estimation. we wont go nowhere without hard data lol.

 

I just called ATF (well known tranny builders), they said to bring in the auto to take it apart and give me a quote, sigh.... I think a build would prob go for $2-$4K more or less.

Or I can get another lower mile auto from the yard, put in the transgo, bigger cooler, increased line pressure. All for $300 (but wont know how long it will hold for).

I know part reason for my auto's failure was heat, Jime and Aaron have told me their auto's run alot cooler (aaron freaks out everytime I tell him my operating temps lol, his are very low vs. mine), also the overlap of the gears from factory hurts the clutches alot. So maybe with the transgo, which is supposed to eliminate the overlap (the slow transition between shifts for more "comfort" ).

$$built$$ vs. junkyard?!?

sigh..............

btw if its not obvious, my auto just died for good. no reverse, and nudges forward when you rev it in park and neutral, no 1st and 2nd.

 

I vote for junkyard tranny with a vb job and a tranny cooler with a temp activated fan

 

Yeah, i am going to go with that. I am going to get a heavy duty cooler, something more serious, already have a temp activated relay with probe, so all i need is a fan.

 

Well I'm not exactly sure either but it seems like extremely hot air would be favorable for a diesel since it essentially would mean a "hotter spark" and a more efficient burn.

 

your right but i was just taking about the dodge motor not are motor.

 

So what temperatures are you seeing boosting your auto? I have a tranny temp gauge and have been making sure to take it easy when it gets near 160-170ish - what temps are aaron and jime running at?. I have the most expensive tranny cooler auto zone carries (no fan yet) already hooked up.

 

After a single run it gets to 180, then starts going up if i continue to get on the gas. just from one run say 2nd and good portion of 3rd gear. Aaron runs i think below 150's, same as Jim if i remember correctly. I used to always stay in WOT between shifts so at the end of the run temps would be 190-200+ like at the track, with very light brake boost off the line (1/8th track). ever since I started letting off a lil bit between shifts, temps dont go so high(still to 180s though), so the main source of heat buildup was during the shifts.

 

I didn't read your whole thread. But if you didn't know you can take the compressor wheel and compressor of the hx40 and swap it to the hx35. You have to machine the backing plate on the hx35 to accept the bigger wheel. Give you the best of both worlds that way.

 

I wanted to do that, actually I was thinking of swapping turbine housings instead, putting the turbine housing of the hx35 onto the hx40, then getting the turbine wheel/shaft from the hx35 and putting it on the hx40, then put the hx40 wheel on. Thing is, based on my research, everyone says that the small 12cm housing will not be able to keep up with the hx40 6blade housing.

 

damn you streetz everytime I think I'm getting closer to your car you do some crap and make it butt loads faster!!!!

 

well, before you make any power, you need a tranny, 500 vs 3000, id give the mods and bigger cooler a try first.

i wouldnt go for the smaller housing just yet as you will need more flow to make more power. Wheres that link to the single rear mount turbo 350z making 600 whp using 2 inch feed?

then turn the boost up to 20 psi already (0: or like i told you, leave it at 15 psi and spray it 75/100 shot wet the whole way. you remember Hal, he sprayed and ran 14 psi of boost, on a non built 3.0 (75 shot), you with a bottom end build still havent made more power than him !!!! FAIL!!!!

get motivated already sir

 

Here is my paypal: @gmail.com. Help a nig out lol.
Remember that hal went through a bunch of motors, plus this is my daily, not working, full time school, no garage, etc... There are many factors that keep me from doing everything I want. till then, wait damit! Look at you, you got two cars and you still aint run no 10 or 9's in the GN, you FAIL too lol, you just cruise around with it like if you were 80 years old taking out ur 30 year old car for a slow drive......

Be patient my friends...

 

Lol.......

 

Last I heard him flooring the GN, the wheel and axle came off in Calle Ocho LOLz

 

LOLz the GN will go 10s when im back in miami (0: just need c16 and 30 lbs of boost and slicks, the no garage and a burt motor will be a total FAIL, so I feel you Streetz..

Eddie, last time i floored the GN on 8 street it cost me 2 new wheels after doing a 180 and hitting the curb.. lol

We need to start a March of Dimes type **** for Streetz for real.. who wants to see another 10second maxima.. i do..

 

ISAYIRUN10SBEFORESTREETZTRUESTORY

 

good upgrade

 

Yeah right, I still had a 3.0 when you started building your motor. stock 3.5, now built 3.5, putting in another auto, and you STILL havent even finished your build lol.

 

Yo man im down if peeps wanna donate, I promise everything will go to the car.

 

I have been to jail 3 times and you still havent went faster than me with a broke car Itll be running soon enough. You should have took this time and made some faster runs.

 

yeah right! you made enough money off of me alone and i bet it all went to ****.

 

I got more stuff for sale for you, I got a sony PSP, a few pair of old shoes, you name it....