Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

SC and TIMING Questions

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Old May 4, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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SC and TIMING Questions

Hey Guys,

I got my car partially tuned. 14-15A/F at cruise/Idle. 10.5-11.3 At WOT. The car screams in second gear on an Auto. I wanted to know what timing I should be seeing at roughly varios speeds/RPMS.

I did a test run and got the following:

Speed: 45km/h
A/F: 14.5
RPM: 1457
Ignition Timing: 38

but at

Speed: 43km/h
A/F: 15
RPM: 1317
Ignition Timing: 10

What timings should I see, I don't want to blow this motor up so it would be nice if possible to get some input at the timings and where they need to be at at say idle/partial/redline (wot)

I have 600cc injectors, at idle (o2's disconnected) I'm removing 35% duty cycle to run the car 14-15 A/F, at WOT I'm removing about 24% duty cycle to get 10.5-11.3 A/F. the car runs like a champ (could be better with a manual) but seeing timing is a factor it should be set properly before thigns go bad.

I thought id post this up for now, I'll do my research on timing. All I know is if you take fuel your adding timing, if you add fuel your retarding the timing, or err correct me if i'm wrong...

Thanks

Last edited by OC_Nooby; May 5, 2010 at 01:27 PM.
Old May 5, 2010 | 10:45 AM
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From: NorthernNJ

Originally Posted by OC_Nooby
Hey Guys,

if you take fuel your adding timing, if you remove fuel your retarding the timing.

Thanks
Old May 5, 2010 | 01:24 PM
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I meant ADD to retard the timing. Sorry was tired...
Old May 7, 2010 | 04:48 AM
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so Timing anyone?
Old May 7, 2010 | 06:00 AM
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Timing and adjusting the fuel are two different things.
If you have no way of adjusting timing, then yes running a bit rich will help in specific areas where advanced timing can be dangerous.

Nealoc had told me this before in regards to timing,

Originally Posted by Nealoc187
You advance timing the higher in RPM you go past torque peak, not retard. (you will still want timing more retarded than stock of course, but you should have more timing advance at 7000rpm than you will at 6500, but only to the tune of .5 or 1.0 degrees most likely).
Now its hard to say where you should begin advancing timing without being on the dyno to see how the power output is affected.
I personally wouldnt try to learn how to tune and play with timing on a boosted car. I paid someone to do it for me. But hey, thats just me.
Old May 7, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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Timing under normal driving conditions will vary anywhere from 5-45 or more. You only need to worry about timing under boost.
Old May 7, 2010 | 02:07 PM
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Well I have the EU, so I can adjust timing. Just don't know by how much or where to start regarding the adjustments. I have a boost sensor I can use as an option for he Eu so it can tell at what PSI im at. But again I have no clue at where i should be...

If I didn't tune the car would eat gas like no tomorrow..does like 450km to a tank with the tune.

Last edited by OC_Nooby; May 7, 2010 at 02:22 PM.
Old May 11, 2010 | 01:31 PM
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My question is.. what should you have your timing at under boost?
Old May 11, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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there are more educated people on here with actual eu's and boost, but id say you can stick to stock timing map and pull timing after about 5-6 psi, maybe 1/2 a degree every psi. i know the turbo guys run aout 7-8 psi stock timing and thats where they usually see some detonation. i mean, the stillen sc kit only addresses fuel as is with the 7 psi kit, so that should work.
Old May 12, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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timing is completely setup dependent. I know I and others have given a basic rundown of the principles and basics of tuning ignition timing on here before. you tune at your own risk however. before you attempt to tune WOT on an forced induction vehicle, you should be well versed in the theory behind it or you're probably going to end up with either disappointing results or a blown HG/cracked ring lands (these are the first things to fail from detonation on an FI VQ usually).
Old May 12, 2010 | 02:46 PM
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I agree with nealoc, timing is probably the hardest part of tuning, reason being is that 80% us dont have anything to monitor knock so you tune on the safe side. I did both hurt a head gasket, and cracked ring lands because I used to tune by ear (listening to the marbles hitting, sound). Peak timing on vq30 ecu goes to about 24degree's sometimes 25. at low 4k's i think its about 16degree's where we have a dip in timing, So id retard about -5 to -7 degree's uptop, and -2ish mid range. so the timing climbs up, but not as high as 24. would go from like 16 to 19. Again, your still risking it without knowing if your knocking or not. Just dont retard like -13 or something crazy like how I was recently told, someone gave advice to another person to retard -13 degree's at WOT lol. thats insane. -13 minus 24 = 11, thats way too low in my opinion, specially SC.

now what you SC guys gotta worry more is retarding timing part throttle, I cant really comment on that, but part throttle we get like 30+ degree's. so maybe someone else can mentiond what they do about that.
Old May 24, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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Was on the highway a couple of days ago and decided to data log as I had my meth kit freshly installed. So I did a 2nd gear pull from ~80km to redline which was ~120km. I noticed my timing going up to 25 Degrees.

Is this good or bad...

I'm going to do a couple of runs and data log. I'll post them up and see what you fine folks think.

Thanks, sorry for being a noob
Old May 25, 2010 | 12:04 AM
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like i said before, timing is completely setup dependent. not having a clue what your setup is i can't even hazard a guess. you are asking a question which can only be answered on a dyno or at least with a knock sensing device installed and datalogging. you might be OK with stock timing, or you might be one WOT run away from cracking ring lands. you really are playing with fire here man. methanol is a good safeguard, but it doesn't get rid of the need to have the car tuned. i see no mention whatsoever in here of what kind of boost you are running... or maybe i've missed it? i'd say you're probably OK at 6-8psi with stock timing, probably OK up to 10 or 11 PSI with methanol on stock timing (this of course depends how much meth you're spraying, and also is dependent upon your meth always working and not failing). don't take my word for it though, get the car dyno tuned.
Old May 25, 2010 | 04:56 AM
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Meth kit starts spraying a little at 4 PSI increasing to Max at 11PSI, 50/50 Mix not sure of Meth Nozzle size.
Supercharged ~11 PSI of boost, Intercooled Setup,3" Piping
600cc Injectors
EU for Tuning, Just tuned A/F

Never herd Detonation/Knock by ear.

Last edited by OC_Nooby; May 25, 2010 at 05:07 AM.
Old May 25, 2010 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by OC_Nooby
Was on the highway a couple of days ago and decided to data log as I had my meth kit freshly installed. So I did a 2nd gear pull from ~80km to redline which was ~120km. I noticed my timing going up to 25 Degrees.

Is this good or bad...

I'm going to do a couple of runs and data log. I'll post them up and see what you fine folks think.

Thanks, sorry for being a noob
Did you read my previous post at all?
Old May 25, 2010 | 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by OC_Nooby
Meth kit starts spraying a little at 4 PSI increasing to Max at 11PSI, 50/50 Mix not sure of Meth Nozzle size.
Supercharged ~11 PSI of boost, Intercooled Setup,3" Piping
600cc Injectors
EU for Tuning, Just tuned A/F

Never herd Detonation/Knock by ear.
I really doubt you'll have any issues with stock timing and that setup. unless your tune is very very crappy. if your a/f is in the mid/low 11's, spraying the meth, and 11psi intercooled from a SC, I think your fine. Just make sure your a/f timing is good, I was still able to knock with a little lean A/F when i had a 3.0, even with a big shot of meth.
Old May 25, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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Spraying Meth bring it down to 10's, going to do some dyno runs very soon, and just stop this guessing game.

Thanks for the info.
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