Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

VQ35 with ATI C2, Running JWT 95 ECU.

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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 04:51 PM
  #41  
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Spent yet more money to get the AFR readings in to BlaZt, only to have Jim Wolf tell me the readings are wrong.

After listening to him talk to me like I am an idiot (and, I guess I am) for a half our or so, I am now dead in the water..

Jim seems to think that because the AFR will sometimes spike up to 50 or even 60, the readings are in error. He may be correct, but Innovate claims it is not possible. They say as long as it has been calibrated (and, it has) it is correct. Why would my logs sometimes show nice numbers like 12-16, then a fraction of a second later jump to 60? I have no reason to think the AFR is wrong, other than Jim's word.

During the test drive, while logging, the thing started running great.. then just as fast as it started working, it stopped. WOT is fine, it is when I just want to give it a little bit of acceleration to maintain speed that it dies. I see other threads on this forum that describe the same problem, but none of them (that I have found) have a fix.

Anyone want to see the logs?
Old Jun 4, 2010 | 06:24 PM
  #42  
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With the help of a number of people, including Jim, I think I have the stumble figured out..

A few weeks back, I noticed on BlaZt that the voltage was kind of erratic. I did not think anything of it because what did that have to do with adding the blower?? It was never a problem before..

As more and more people looked at my logs in the past few days, everyone mentioned the strange voltage swing. Jim specifically mentioned that at times it dropped below 12V. He asked me to check the connections, and look for voltage drops, which I did. I found significant drop between the battery and the location I was powering the ECU. I moved the supply line direct (well, through a fuse and relay) to the battery last night. Driving it today, it seemed MUCH better...

Until..

It got dark. With the headlights on, intercooler pump on, air conditioner on, stereo blasting, the car ran like crap again.

Scotty!! We need more power!!

What does this all have to do with installing the blower??

To make room for the blower, I moved the alternator to the other side of the engine (where you guys have a power steering pump). The blower took the old alternator spot. I am driving the alternator off of the inner (smaller diameter) groove of the crank pulley. End result: Alternator is now spinning slower than before the blower was on there!! When the RPMs were low, there simply was not enough power to run the engine (fire coils, and injectors).

Now that it is running better, I have been able to provide Jim with some more reliable logs. It is still running a little lean, so he will be sending me a new chip to install next week with slightly richer map (he said about 22%). Hopefully that will solve the major issues with this project!!

So, who sells a high-power alternator (with a smaller pulley) for this thing?
Old Jun 5, 2010 | 05:19 AM
  #43  
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A flux capacitor would solve all your problems. lol. Sorry, I couldn't help it. Here is a link for a higher power alternator (not sure about the smaller pulley).

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/alternato...ma-240pro.html
Old Jun 5, 2010 | 05:54 AM
  #44  
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Found that yesterday after I posted. Also found the Iraggi one. The Iraggi one is a bit cheaper, and seems like they use a smaller pulley (which is what I really need). For about the same price point, they also have a 2 yr warranty.

The DCPower unit looks to be backward from mine (based on the photo). My power stud is in the same clock position as the single mounting ear. The DC Power had the stud on the other side, which may hit my exhaust header. DCPower's unit is a "one size fits all" for Maximas. Makes me wonder if it will fit in my application correctly?

Iraggi has specific models for 95-97, and 98-00. However, I dont know which one I have!

See this; http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...lternator.html
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 11:46 AM
  #45  
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It shouldn't matter, they should still bolt up 95-03
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 12:16 PM
  #46  
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Maybe, but I don't want clearance issues with the header. If the connections are on "top" (in my photo), they may hit.
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 12:44 PM
  #47  
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http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=293590
There is one listed for a 98

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=37267
That one is listed for a 96

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=358012
That one is for 00

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=474653
That one is 02

I can't tell in your pics if you have the 2 mounting holes at the top. But as you can see all the alternators look the same pretty much.
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 12:48 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
I can't tell in your pics if you have the 2 mounting holes at the top. But as you can see all the alternators look the same pretty much.
I agree, they look the same in those photos.. I was looking at the various high power units (mostly on Ebay), and many of the photos showed the connections on the opposite side from the threaded mounting ear.. Not sure why.

Not sure it matters now, I just ordered a custom built alternator from MechMan in Knoxville. Hopefully it will be here before the weekend.
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 12:54 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by MarcL
I agree, they look the same in those photos.. I was looking at the various high power units (mostly on Ebay), and many of the photos showed the connections on the opposite side from the threaded mounting ear.. Not sure why.

Not sure it matters now, I just ordered a custom built alternator from MechMan in Knoxville. Hopefully it will be here before the weekend.
How many amps is it? Also how much(for future reference .

I think they can make our alts go to as much as 225.
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 01:00 PM
  #50  
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I was looking at the various 200 and 250, and 275 alternators on Ebay and such. But, I was more concerned about power at low RPM because I am driving it off the PS pulley. Explaining all of this to MechMan, they thought I would be OK with a 150A unit (because it makes more power at lower RPM than the higher units) with a 2 inch pulley, so it spins faster.

Estimate was $400.. About the same as the other units, although less power.

Their units are not rebuilt cores. They make them brand new. The body is a bit larger diameter, but smaller thickness. This works good for me too as it will be further from the exhaust hear. It also has dual cooling fans, which should help in the rear-mounted configuration.
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 01:02 PM
  #51  
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.... Also, out of the 6 or so places I called, MechMan was the only one answered by a human that could help me. Most of them had answering machines, or someone who would "get back to me". It has been over 24 hrs since I made those calls (and sent email) and none have gotten back to me.

Not going to drop $400-$500 on a company that can't get back to me in a reasonable amount of time.
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 01:03 PM
  #52  
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I would wrap your exhaust since it is SO close to the alternator, all that heat can't help it's output.
Old Jun 8, 2010 | 01:06 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
I would wrap your exhaust since it is SO close to the alternator, all that heat can't help it's output.
I have the wrap.. Just have not had time to do it yet..

National show is NEXT week.. Need to be there!

http://deloreancarshow.com/
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