Another Almost Boosted 3.0
02-15-2012, 08:34 AM
#161
I would start with the fuses first before anything since it's the most easy thing to check. They might look good from the eye view but if you shake them sometimes thats how you catch it if it is bad. But GL.
02-15-2012, 08:41 AM
#162
you double check all grounds?
02-15-2012, 09:44 AM
#163
since you have fuel and no spark time to start testing everything from the plugs and work your way back to the ign switch.
have you attemped to pull a plug put it in the coil crank the car while grounding it to confirm there is no spark or atleast unplug a coil to see if your getting 12v, ground and a crank signal
have you attemped to pull a plug put it in the coil crank the car while grounding it to confirm there is no spark or atleast unplug a coil to see if your getting 12v, ground and a crank signal
Now its where to start with finding out what's wrong. im dumbfounded right now. Nothing i have done has made any positive results on getting it started again.
02-15-2012, 09:56 AM
#164
i have a multimeter that i might have to use to figure out what is not getting signal directly from the ecu, question i have is does the car need to be cranking or can the problem be found with just the key in the on position. That and what does the voltage need to look like?
Last edited by Crusher103; 02-15-2012 at 10:02 AM.
02-15-2012, 03:46 PM
#166
02-15-2012, 09:46 PM
#170
ok this is going to get complicated as i have never had to check for voltage before so if you guys dont mind could you walk me through it i can see this getting complicated. 
02-16-2012, 07:25 AM
#171
you have a wiring diagram? or know how to read one? im sure someone will chime in with what color wires to test but if not your gonna need one, or access to alldata to find out which one has constant 12v power with the key on and the signal which i belive only gets 5v, but i maybe corrected on that statement.
On the coils, one will be ground, one will have 12v constant with the key, on and one will pulse to like i said the 5v, or 12v whichever it is, when cranking, or the engine is running.
As for checking the actual harness to all the coils, i would have to read on some stuff to let you know there.
take a small needle or pin and instert it into the back of the plug where the wires enter the coil, and hook up a DVOM, hook the black lead on the DVOM to ground and the red side to the pin, turn the key on, and check for readings.
If you get no reading, move to the next wire, if you dont get any readings either your not getting power to anything, or you dont have a good connection to that wire.
On the coils, one will be ground, one will have 12v constant with the key, on and one will pulse to like i said the 5v, or 12v whichever it is, when cranking, or the engine is running.
As for checking the actual harness to all the coils, i would have to read on some stuff to let you know there.
take a small needle or pin and instert it into the back of the plug where the wires enter the coil, and hook up a DVOM, hook the black lead on the DVOM to ground and the red side to the pin, turn the key on, and check for readings.
If you get no reading, move to the next wire, if you dont get any readings either your not getting power to anything, or you dont have a good connection to that wire.
Last edited by NSMO240; 02-16-2012 at 07:28 AM.
02-16-2012, 09:47 AM
#174
Like stated above there is only three wires. One should have 12v with the key, one ground and the ladt only while cranking or running. If your not getting 12v with the key check the ign switch, if your getting 12v but nothing from the signal wire while cranking then check the cps and harness. Last if the ground reads less than 12v check your grounds.
If everything is fine check your fuseable link in the harness and clutch switch on the pedal
If everything is fine check your fuseable link in the harness and clutch switch on the pedal
02-16-2012, 09:56 AM
#175
Like stated above there is only three wires. One should have 12v with the key, one ground and the ladt only while cranking or running. If your not getting 12v with the key check the ign switch, if your getting 12v but nothing from the signal wire while cranking then check the cps and harness. Last if the ground reads less than 12v check your grounds.
If everything is fine check your fuseable link in the harness and clutch switch on the pedal
If everything is fine check your fuseable link in the harness and clutch switch on the pedal
02-23-2012, 09:48 AM
#179
weather has not been on myside this past week(its 70 outside right now and 3 days ago there was snow on the ground.....go figure 
)
Ok i have a little over 12Vs with the key in, so im assuming thats spot on but i have .232v from the signal wire to be exact with the ignition off when i put the key in the on position it dips to .113v then when the car is cranking .09vs and it never fluctuates, so im assuming problem is the CPS. Harness is fine im certain so that leaves that actual sensor itself.
Question being how would i check the sensor for its voltage to be certain because i can pull on off another car the problem is, since i have a 3.5s oil pan it has to be modified to fit so i dont want to go shaving it and then find out, that is not the problem.
I know im more than ok with grounds, both heads are grounded, the transmission is grounded, the timing cover is grounded, the Intake manifold is grounded, the block has 3 grounds. i wanted to make sure that was never an issue.
)Like stated above there is only three wires. One should have 12v with the key, one ground and the ladt only while cranking or running. If your not getting 12v with the key check the ign switch, if your getting 12v but nothing from the signal wire while cranking then check the cps and harness. Last if the ground reads less than 12v check your grounds.
If everything is fine check your fuseable link in the harness and clutch switch on the pedal
If everything is fine check your fuseable link in the harness and clutch switch on the pedal
Question being how would i check the sensor for its voltage to be certain because i can pull on off another car the problem is, since i have a 3.5s oil pan it has to be modified to fit so i dont want to go shaving it and then find out, that is not the problem.
I know im more than ok with grounds, both heads are grounded, the transmission is grounded, the timing cover is grounded, the Intake manifold is grounded, the block has 3 grounds. i wanted to make sure that was never an issue.
Last edited by Crusher103; 02-23-2012 at 09:50 AM.
02-24-2012, 07:50 PM
#182
as in cam position sensor?
02-25-2012, 10:18 AM
#185
Its from my botched 3.5 swap, the VQ30 im using when i got it had no oil pan, no valve covers, no timing or its covers, cams, intake manifold, it had been molested in favor of another 3.5. So i just pulled everything off the 3.5 and slapped it on the 3.0, its why my 3.0 revup cams and an SSIM on it. Temporary solution turned permanent.
as in cam position sensor?
as in cam position sensor?
02-27-2012, 08:19 PM
#197
The cps on the front of the motor should measure anywhere from 470-570 ohms. On the pos sensor by the starter unbolt it but leave the harness plugged in. With the key on, stick the voltmeter leads in the back of the jack so you can get voltage from the wires with the harness still plugged into the sensor, touch the tip of the sensor with a screwdriver, it should read 5 volts, slowly pull the screwdriver away, the voltage should remain at 5 volts.
03-06-2012, 01:39 PM
#198
Question, if i get consult, will i be able to just plug it up and figure out what is going on, this is obviously an electrical problem, i just went through the FSM ignition signal BS still cannot find the problem, voltage on the CKPS checked out, its harness is fine, changed the ignition condensor, and it wont start. Im very close to just scraping the whole project and getting another car.