Another Almost Boosted 3.0
OK just going to compile everything i have done to try and find this problem:
Tested all 6 cylinders for spark-No spark.
changed the crank position sensor&harness
changed the cam position sensor
tested CKPS for continuity.
ECCS fuse-Good
ECU i have 2 of them both good.
The car just turns over and doesnt make an attempt to start.
Tested all 6 cylinders for spark-No spark.
changed the crank position sensor&harness
changed the cam position sensor
tested CKPS for continuity.
ECCS fuse-Good
ECU i have 2 of them both good.
The car just turns over and doesnt make an attempt to start.
Last edited by Crusher103; Mar 26, 2012 at 02:45 PM.
thanks for the reminded me, ECU and ecc fuse. Checked those they are good. clutch switch is fine because the car is turning over with out problem but it will not turn on. Ignition switch is about 4 years old. And i have not been driving this car everyday for the bast 3 years pretty much i havent driven it so for it to go bad, possible but very unlikely.
True. I havent checked the emanage settings but maybe it reset itself.
I have been using the FSM, using the ignition signal diagnoses(EC 122), i have done just about everything on that list. The only sensor i haven't touched so far is the crank ref sensor. But iirc if thats bad it wont stop the car from starting.
Its on stock timing, 4th gens have coilpacks there is no distributor.
I have been using the FSM, using the ignition signal diagnoses(EC 122), i have done just about everything on that list. The only sensor i haven't touched so far is the crank ref sensor. But iirc if thats bad it wont stop the car from starting.
Its on stock timing, 4th gens have coilpacks there is no distributor.
Last edited by Crusher103; Mar 26, 2012 at 05:12 PM.
i think i found your problem, not sure why nobody else noticed it (how many people actually build vq's here?)
you're using a 3.5L upper oil pan, but you're still using a 3.0L crank sensor (by the flywheel)
the 3.0L crank sensor is too short and does not read the teeth on the 3.0L flywheel very good. you had luck starting the car the first time..
you can shave the 3.5L oil pan where the bolt for the crank sensor is, but WHY grind at all?? you're only going to mess it up and make the pan uneven and eventually rust in the area..
instead -- use a 3.5L crank sensor + 3.5L crank sensor harness and splice it into the stock 3.0L crank harness
there's only 3 wires:
Black = GND,
White = Crank Signal,
Red = +12VDC
no need for any grinding, sensor bolts right in the hole, and it works perfectly as it should.
I first did this on my 3.5L swap back in '07 (donor engine was from a 4AT so no need to swap to 3.0L oil pan unlike the 3.5L 5ATs).. fast forward 5 years and a LOT of hard driving/racing, still works perfect to this day
try it, what have you really got to lose??
I was actually in Virginia by Silver Spring visiting relatives 3 weeks ago..
I knew that, and i did that a LONG time ago(Aluminum can rust btw?) The CKPS is not the issue. I did all the modifications to the oil pan and CKPS and it works. I did drive the car and i did for a long time on that 3.0 CKPS+3.5 oil pan without starting issues.
Just so you know the back story the car had been starting with out issue for the past couple of months. I had even driven it to the point i got well into boost.
So i figured cool time to wrap this project up turned the car on and drove it up my driveway to turn it around. Got to the end of my driveway and the car stalled. And from that time the car has not restarted from that stall. The problem seems to be the coilpacks are not getting signal but all my sensors from what i have tested are working.
Just so you know the back story the car had been starting with out issue for the past couple of months. I had even driven it to the point i got well into boost.
So i figured cool time to wrap this project up turned the car on and drove it up my driveway to turn it around. Got to the end of my driveway and the car stalled. And from that time the car has not restarted from that stall. The problem seems to be the coilpacks are not getting signal but all my sensors from what i have tested are working.
This **** still not running?
Have you tried to bypass the Emanage? I have seen an emanage die for no reason, Actually Jime sent me an emanage once that was completely dead, and I tested another Eu that soemone else had issues with, Dead, no start.
Have you tried to bypass the Emanage? I have seen an emanage die for no reason, Actually Jime sent me an emanage once that was completely dead, and I tested another Eu that soemone else had issues with, Dead, no start.
With those injectors i have never been able to get the car to start without the emanage.I have pulled the emanage and its pnp harness to test it for continuity. So if there is away i can check to see if the emanage has malfunction, because the lights still power up and im still able to go through the E-01 and adjust its setting.
FWIW, I've had an E-Manage blow on me out of no where.
I was driving and the car just died and would not start. I could still connect to the EU via USB, indicating that it powered on. It would just not run the car.
I bypassed it and the car ran fine.
I ended up replacing it and Ive been running the new E-Manage for over a year now.
I was driving and the car just died and would not start. I could still connect to the EU via USB, indicating that it powered on. It would just not run the car.
I bypassed it and the car ran fine.
I ended up replacing it and Ive been running the new E-Manage for over a year now.
Try finding some stock injectors or dek injectors, something to try to start the car without EU, or with ur current injectors, lower the pressure as much as you could, bypass EU and try to start. The bad EU i tested once, I was able to hook up to it via USB, everything looked fine, but was dead.
Try finding some stock injectors or dek injectors, something to try to start the car without EU, or with ur current injectors, lower the pressure as much as you could, bypass EU and try to start. The bad EU i tested once, I was able to hook up to it via USB, everything looked fine, but was dead.
I have a few suggestions.
I know you said earlier that you went over the grounds in depth, but have you checked out the 2 grounds that use to go to the 4th gen lower intake manifold. If those are not hooked up or have a good solid ground that will prevent a spark.
And also when the key is in the ''on'' position does your CEL light come on? Although this is usually associated with a bad ecu it would also indicate a bad electrical issue(which you obviously have came to that conclusion) But its somewhat of a step into the right direction
Good luck
I know you said earlier that you went over the grounds in depth, but have you checked out the 2 grounds that use to go to the 4th gen lower intake manifold. If those are not hooked up or have a good solid ground that will prevent a spark.
And also when the key is in the ''on'' position does your CEL light come on? Although this is usually associated with a bad ecu it would also indicate a bad electrical issue(which you obviously have came to that conclusion) But its somewhat of a step into the right direction
Good luck
ok mystery solved, it was the emanage. After doing some searching i found this and the car got spark after the emanage was disconnected:
http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/for...howtopic=19825
http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/for...howtopic=19825
good deal man.
ps i love the language they use on that forum ...
"check the voltage settings for the sparkies..."
"the problem is we cant find the problem..."
"any advices? how to fix this problem..."
ps i love the language they use on that forum ...
"check the voltage settings for the sparkies..."
"the problem is we cant find the problem..."
"any advices? how to fix this problem..."





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