Hi guys!

The project is going well. Our first discussion helped me alot. Now the engine is dismantled and will be built at BHP Motors in Laval, Quebec.

Here is the major components and jobs it will include:

Eagle rods
ACL bearings
ARP 2000 rod bolts
Wiseco pistons 8.8/1 cr.
VQ35HR Head gaskets
New valves seals
ARP L19 head studs (from Meximax)
Planed heads
Decked block
Stock FWD VQ35DE cams
VQ35DE oil pump
VQ30DE timming
Balanced rotating assebly with oem pulley and flywheel
Meximax's Vortech V2 setup
3 inches piping with 3"in/out intercooler
Blitz BOV
Pathy TB
Aeromotive fpr
550cc injectors
Custom dual feed fuel rail
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Reflashed JWT ecu 7k rev.
Z32 maf
AEM UEGO wideband
SAFC to begin, but an AEM FI/C6 will follow....
Custom Altima headers with a manual cutout on each bank
Universal magnaflow y pipe instead of the cat.
Single catback for quiet street use
ACT Heavy duty PP with 6 puck disc from eClutchmasters


Here some pics for your viewing pleasure....


Few pics in my living room...


At BHP Motors...









I also still have an unanswered question.....
I've asked it on nycmaximas and here too but no one seems to know the answer. I know to remain at the 4th gen stock timming, the intake cam has to be drilled at 180* and for an N/A engine it's best to got it done at 190/195* as stated by Tilley. But for a forced induction setup, I can't find the information anywhere stating the optimal intake cam timming drilling position... Anyone knows???? If anyone have the answer, I'll have the intake cams drilled to 180* to mimic the stock 4th gen timming.

 

Ok, I have some little updates.

I'm still waithing for the engine to be completed.
Meanwhile, VQ'ed and I, did some preparation on the car. We've made holes for the piping and enough place to fit the intercooler.

I've finally bring the camera to the garage, so here's some pictures for the interested ones...

 

And the other ones, cause we can't post more than 15 pics in a single post.

BTW! I got a good deal on some 550cc injectors that ares 100% drop in for our VQ35's. They came from an RB25DETT Neo engine. $310 flow tested and shipped.

 

Looking good. If possible, look into non stock cams. Something more aggressive, perhaps the same meximax had. If I were to do it again, I would have probably invested in cams.

 

Yes, I believe you will regret it as well. You will want more top end with the SC and the stock cams will def hold you back. With all this work you are putting into it, why not invest in come cams? You can usually find some good deals on my350z.com

 

honestly bro - amazing so far.

 

I know the stock cams are not the best. I had to pull back on meximax's heads, because I would have blown my budget. The whole project cost more than expected. It would have been great, but I need to spend on new control arms, new tie rods, new brakes on all 4 corners, street tires, a set of slicks, an ACT clutch and a proper tune.

 

That build is slowly being put together and looking pretty good. I was able to squeeze 426whp with the 2.62" pulley on the OEM cams with stock compression. Since you are running lower compression, you can get away with a lot more timing to make more power.

Keep the pics coming.

 

Andres was thats with fwd manifold or z33 manifold?

 

All my boosting was always with the Z33 manifold. I never went back to the FWD after my Z33 install in '05 or whenever that was. It is interesting to see all these dyno's hitting a wall at 5500rpm on FWD IM. However, check out Matt's "96sleepers" dyno chart from a few years back. He was making almost as much power as me with a FWD IM, and not a hickup til redline. He also had a JWT ECU!!!!

 

Thats very interesting, did he haves aftermarket cams in there? Perhaps its due to the degree of the cam spacers.

EDIT: nevermind, I just looked at his thread, and yea he had aftermarket cams, which is most likely the reason he kept on making power.

 

how much power you lookin to make

 

Just about 400whp... anything more will be icing on the cake.

 

Little update... the engine should be ready in 2 weeks.

Also since i30dvr's fuelling problem thread started, I've put a hold on sending my JWT ecu back for a reflash. So I'll probably keep it with the 8k rev limit and timming bump, but I'll use an EMU or AEM FIC to pull back the timming (just need to pull back more timming than a stock ecu.) Should I need an FMU if my ecu is not reflashed? Or would an EMU, 255lph fp and my 550cc ares enough for my V2 with the 13psi puley?

 

EMU can control the fuel, just get an adjustable fpr and get the fuel pressure right.

 

It's been a while since the last update.... anyhow, the engine was promissed for the upcoming weekend... but meanwhile I bought an FIC6 and I'm wondering where is located the cam sensor pinout on the 4th gen ecu plug. Thanks twice!

edit: the fsm shows that the pins # 45 and 46 are used for the cam sensor... does anyone can confirm this? Also on dandymax's eu writeup, he mention that the pin 46 is used for the crank signal on 99's (I own a 99)... this starts to be confusing... help please!

 

Nismo_star on nycmaximas, pinpointed to me, that the cam sensor pinout ares pins #46 and 47.


Engine update...
After so many times the deadline was reported, the delivery was scheduled for this weekend. Oh wow, finally! I told myself....

I went to BHP this morning, to know if it will be ready today or tomorow... answer....
NEXT WEEK..... how surprising at this point....





At least I got this, to show you guys....

 

Weekly update!
Does the engine is ready?.......
Well ummm....... no.












Basicaly, still more whaiting to do.

 

throw some cams in there if you can.

 

Great to come back and peek at people's builds .. nice work! Lot's of pics ... I always forget to take pics of my builds. Almost forgot what the big black thing on the piping was (MAF). I haven't had to use or see one in a long time!

 

any updates

 

wow impressive. Looks like it will put some decent power dwn

 

Ok, got the engine. Fully built engine looking sweet all cleaned up and ready to drop in the engine bay.

Yesterday, everything has been done. The engine is not receiving gas. After cranking without the fuel pump fuse to get oil up the block, we reinstalled the fuel pump fuse and no gas whatsoever????

The spark plugs aren't wet with gas??? We also have problems that weren't there when we dissasembled the car: no electrical seats, no power windows, no doors locking with the controller and the headlight relays clicks and lights dims when turning the ignition key. Injectors are grounded...they are the stockers to get the engine idling fine before the tune.

We only had 20 minutes of troubleshooting left yesterday, we had to leave the car without a solution.

Any advices, hints are welcome. Fuel lines are connected and quarter of a tank of gas left, dont worry guys!!!!

 

This happened to me, check the fuse at the engine bay driver side ECC. Check all of those fuses. My car was exacly the same, nothing worked, just cranked and cranked, this was right after i dropped in the built motor like you, I wanted to set the whole **** on fire lol. I ended up hardwiring the fuel pump to a switch lol, but then found out the fuse(s) were blown. Hope that helps.

 

yeah, that encourages us, streetz. After all the hard work and waiting for the engine to be built, I wanted to torch it up.

 

Any updates?

 

Hey man, hope your doing fine. For the no fuel, you might have mistakenly switch the gas line and the return line at the fuel pump assembly (underneath the rear seat) or perhaps in the engine bay, you may have switch the fuel damper line and FPR line, that may sound dumb but it happened to me since I replaced the line with Russel lines and I apparently switch them by mistake. Check to see if there is fuel before the fuel damper, if not then you want to check the fuel pump, the ground and the fuse.

 

Now has fuel since Jclaw's brother came to help diagnose problems on the car. Main fuse and ECU fuse were blown, grounds are good.

Now, we have very little spark, not enough of what we think to get the engien started. We forgot to remove the paint on the mating surface between the bolck and tranny, so we gonna have to drop the tranny, sand the surface, mounting back everything together then try starting the engine again.

If it doesn't work, we gonna have to remove the engine and check if the timing on the cams is right. We use cam spacers that ran in a functional engine but we gonna have to give it a check, we think...

 

You dont have to remove the tranny for the ground, just buy some thick wire and run few ground at different point on tranny and engine head and attach it to the battery that will do and save you a lot of trouble. I can send you some pics if you need it.

 

Thats what we've done before removing the engine from the tranny and no change so far. We might think its the immobilizer key or the Ecu thats burned.

 

You have a 99?

Here is another idea, put your key to the ON position,
go to the engine bay and unplug the starter, then with a wire from the battery 12v, provide the starter with power, just hold it in there and let it crank over a couple times, it should start. (this bypasses all the ignition start components and rules alot of things out). Mine did not start and I ended up wiring a push button to the starters power, and started it like that for a long time.

EDIT: Correction, i changed changed my starter and noticed the main thick cable for it is already 12v, so I am not sure if I am supplying it with 12v or ground to the small plug... easy to figure out with a voltmeter.

 

It finally started today... the timming job was a mess. The dowel pins were in the oem holes, not the redrilled ones.... Secondary cams sprockets were mounted on the wrong side... that what happen when you do business with a shop that knows $hit about VQ's.....

And I remember the nice words when I gave em the job...
"We've done plenty of 350Z."- the shop owner
"I know these engines by heart."- the tech.

BTW Streetz, heard about the turbo faliure. Some times life is a real nuts kicker, mine's are definitively sores, but don't give up bro.

 

Its hard to trust a shop to do custom job Orgers would do, they have no clue whats behind it or the reasoning for it, and if they figure it out, they dont know how we want to have it done.

I am not giving up on her, new turbo is going in tomorrow, having the other one checked out and see how much the damage is (might just need a new wheel, and thrust bearing). Tomorrow the replacement goes in.

 

what happened to this build

 

hopefully not another one of those that starts out promising and then vanishes into thin air...

 

Damn looks like his built engine bit the dust because of the shop

 

damm i read all this hoping to have a sweet end and it never sended -_-

 

HOPE he gets it done looked like a whole lot of dollars to just stop...

 

Check OPs activity, this project is dead. Cranking motor with wrong timing =busted head at the least. Submit lawsuit..rinse and repeat.