LOL

 

so basically nothing fun, lol

 

Axels are cheap and easy to replace. Launch the sucker.

And burnouts don't stress the car or tranny much, you should really make a few burnout videos when your tires get low. Just do it a few days before you plan on getting new ones.

What are your latest kills?

 

haha. seriously.

 

I have fun in the car. Trust me.....lol.

Cheap and easy huh? Any volunteers going to come up here and help me install the axles for free??? huh? nope....lol.

Yeah, I got a LONG way before those tires are bald. I drive 2 cars between my Maxima and MDX so Im not always driving the Maxima so it will take even longer to run them down. Basically I drive the MDX for long trips, when it rains or snows. Other than that I drive the Maxima. There is absolutely no traction whatsoever when it rains, so I dont even waste my time bringing it out.

Man....people around here wack!!! I only had a couple of "experiences" other than that seems to be no one around here. Maybe I need to go to one of those Philly meets. My neighbor got a WRX and he is actually getting it tuned with a stage 2 package and he said we can have a little fun together after its tuned. Just waiting for it.....seen quite a few WRXs around here but always seem to be on the OTHER side of the freeway....smh. Oh well summers coming to an end maybe next summer. I do hope that I can make it to that Nissan/Infinit day at Atco in September though to see what the car can do on the track!!

 

Your neighbor better do more than a stage 2 to the WRX if he wants to keep up. lol

I had a couple of runs beside wrxs and evos and loved everyone of them. Seriously I wouldnt worry about the axles. My car has been turboed for about 5 or 6 years and yea I have beat on it, well some. I have went to the track 5 different times, done burn outs and had no problems. But I understand what your saying. Its the tranny you have to worry about.

 

The tranny sucks, well that 3rd gear does. When Im on the freeway doing like 70 and I want to downshift to 3rd I have to shift to neutral then shake the stick side to side THEN put it in 3rd. If I don't do that I get that annoying crunch and sometimes it grinds....DAM synchros SUCK!!! I think Im going to rebuild it with new syncs next year....its REALLY annoying!!!

 

Yea, thats what I was going to do also, before I sold the car.

 

grab a tranny out of a 6th gen 2005+

upgraded synchros

 

I've seen broken cases on here. With the VQ's potential they had to make it fair with a cheap trans. I wish these transmissions were stronger, but then everyone would be all over the VQ and prices would be high. http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...peeds-etc.html
Most people sell their cars instead of beefing up the trans. Once you get to that point you start thinking it's fwd and a waste... Although things are getting cheaper and perhaps more will venture into the darkside.

 

I believe the gears are shorter in the 05 6th gen. I like the longer gears in the 02-03. Tranny itself is not weak its the synchros that is all.

 

Only the final drive has a different ratio.

 

Beat on it, break it, rebuild it stronger then before

 

Finally got the dyno video up of when the car got tuned back in July.....a couple of runs for anyone interested in hearing how it sounded:

 

Sounds beast!

 

So I decided to do a makeover on the Maxima. I wanted to get rid of those UGLY blue couplers on the intercooler drawing attention to the intercooler ruining the turbo "surprise" lol. I removed the burger and painted my front grill black. Also removed the headlights and going to black out the housing.

Here is a before and after pic of the grill. I wet sanded it then painted it with a low gloss black engine enamel because it should be more durable than regular paint.



Here is a before and after pic of the intercooler couplers. I absolutely HATED that blue garbage down there. Looks so much more "secret" now.



Here is a pic of the original 90 degree black coupler and the blue coupler on the passenger side that was on. I had to cut the original black couplers with the dremel to match the length of the blue couplers (the drivers side blue coupler was also custom cut as well)......



I also had to paint the t-clamps black because dont want no silver to be showing down there...just want it all to be black so no one sees anything.

 

I bought the diamond plated floor mats for the car and they look awesome, but the edges are sharp and they are starting to actually cut into the factory carpet from people's feet rubbing on the mat. So I bought some chrome trim to put around the edges to make it smooth so they dont cut into the carpet.....

BEFORE:





AFTER:

 

Looks great

 

Diamond floor mats ftw just like F&F

 

This. Diamond plated floor mats make about as much sense as **** on a nun. To each their own...

 

 

So I had the battery moved to the trunk over a year ago and ever since I have been getting low voltage when car is running. I've been running about 13.3V when car running and I have no aftermarket sub woofers or amps or anything. Sometimes voltage drop even to 12.2V while running. The way the shop at the time did it was run a fat wire (I think 1 or 2 gauge from the pos STARTER to the battery and a small ground from the batt in the trunk to the chasis in the trunk. So I decided to start the big 3 upgrade. I ordered 0 guage ground and positive wire from a company in Brooklyn and ordered new battery terminals and 0 gauge ring terminals. I bought a self lighting torch and some flux with solder to solder ring terminals onto the wire.

The wire I used was this brand called CADENCE and its ULTRA flexible...I like that.

Here is the wire after it was stripped and ends twisted. I put the ring terminal covers on BEFORE I soldered the ring terminal on because it will be alot easier pulling it over the terminal that way....



Here is what I used for flux and solder.....



Putting flex on wire ends.....



After this I put the terminal on and used the torch to heat the back of the terminal while I fed the solder into the terminal onto the wire....I filled it up to the top.....



Rock solid connection. I replaced those skinny ground wires from the batt to trunk chasis AND the ground from the tranny/engine to the chasis under the hood. Just to compare I did a side by side picture of that skinny ground next to the FATNESS 0 gauge:



Here is the pic of the tranny/engine ground. I had to take that whole bracket out because the stock ground would not come off without it.....



Here is a pic of the batt to trunk chasis ground installed with new Neg batt terminal. I had to cut the box a little bigger to put a 3/4" rubber gromet on the batt box because the one they had installed before was WAY too small. You'll notice the little spot of blood on the batter by the ground wire because I actually cut myself on the trunk chasis while screwing ground in because I had to hold the bold from behind while tightening the nut and cut myself on a piece of metal, battery looked like a murder scene before but I cleaned it up pretty good...I'll live.



Pic of new 0 gauge tranny/engine ground to chasis....



Other end of tranny/engine ground wire.....its the lighter colored black...it was hard to take a pic because it was night and all the crap in the way...



I also had some insulation on the ground for the top of the engine near the front IVT solenoid rot away and expose the ground. Had to repair that as well....



AFTER repairs:



I also had the Headlight housing blacked out by a guy that I know....$80 well spent because I did not feel like being bothered with baking them and all that GARBAGE......

BEFORE:



AFTER:




I'll be doing the retro fit with projectors in the future but not now.....

It was getting dark and I had to go to work so I could not finish. So tomorrow:

-Positive 0 gauge from Alternator to battery (with fuse)
-Reconnect Haltech PnP Harness
-Replace BOTH cam timing solenoids
-Put Headlights in and reconnect frint bumper

Then the test drive......Alot of work tomorrow hope I can get it done......

 

Finally got car all put back together and finished big 3 upgrade.

There was a hole already next to the brake fluid reservoir that I used that takes the wire down behind the wheel well but I had to drill a hole into the wheel well to get the wire into the car.....







The cable that was already on the positive battery terminal had to be soldered with a ring terminal to use the new battery posts that I bought. Wrapped that badboy with plenty electrical tape.



More sodlering masterpieces...



Here is the wire attached to the alternator.



Initially I ordered 17' of blue wire and 7' of black wire. The 17' of blue wire was not enough BUT I was fortunate enough to have enough black wire left so I just pulled the blue wire as far as it would go into the engine bay and put that to the fuse and used the black wire on the other side of the fuse and connected it to the alternator...



Here is what the battery looks like with the new posts and connections..



Started it up and at idle 14.02V....before it was 13.0 - 13.3V
BIG 3 FTW!!!!



Also this is a BEFORE and AFTER shot of how the front looks now after I painted grill flat black, blacked out headlight housing and put black silicone couplers on the intercooler and painted the tclamps black....what a sleeper!!

 

looks alot better, it's all about the little things

 

Thanks man. As I was pulling out the garage driving it down the street for the first time since the new look some kids were on the street and they was like "WOW, nice car!" I was like "THANKS!!"

Next year (March/April) Im gonna ask you to fab me up a 3 inch DP in two pieces so that I dont have to have a lift to remove that piece. That way the entire exhaust will be 3". I think that 2.5" thing is a restriction. Also might have you look at the feed pipe too....I dont like the fact that I cant remove the thing without a lift because I want to ceramic coat them by JETHOT next year.

 

Very nice job dude - I like that fact you kept the cattman header & equal length Y set up. stills has a nice tone to it and just sounds angry at WOT. very clean set up!

 

Washed up the Maxima today and took pics....







I just love the fact that it doesn't even look like a seriously modified car. You'd never think there was a turbo on this thing.....so subtle....

 

Looks great.

Planning on color matching the front lip?

 

Thanks, no I dont plan on color matching the lip to match. Its already painted a satin black. I think it looks goo with the outside theme of black and silver and matches the blacked out headlights and grill. Im considering painting the sideskirts stain black and getting a 20th AE rear lip and doing the same....then I'll have a black all on the bottom....still thinking about it. If I had photo shop or something I could see how it looked.....

 

Looks good maybe some tints?

 

yes, thats what Im doing next......it was SUPPOSED to already tinted but shop was BSing. So Im just going to take it elsewhere.

 

damn, i've never seen a before and after of blacking out the housings..What a great difference. imo, i think blacking out the whole bottom would be overkill. but i'm in for a photoshop just to see

 

Tintzzzzz!!! :d

 

Seriously considering this as the next upgrade.......want 480-500whp.

http://www.importpartspro.com/st2vqloblni3.html

 

Fixed

 

You need some upgraded gears if you are going even to think about that.

 

Or put an Auto

 

yeah.....I changed my mind. Going with LS swap on a 350z. Make 600whp ALL MOTOR and call it a day!!

 

you do know how much that will cost right

 

Just to give you a heads up soldering cables is a no no.

You really want to use crimp connectors. You get a better connection and it is MUCH more reliable. You will probably be fine with the soldered connections but next time if you want to do it 'right' you should crimp them. Happy to go into detail if you want.

When are you turning up the boost?