yup! Be much more fun in the end too! Its going to be a long project.

Yes, I would like more detail on that. Are you referring to when I soldered the 0 gauge wire?

Not turning up boost unless you donating for a new motor...lol.

 

Yeah VQ3.5s don't do well over 400-450whp. Needs to be built.

I was hoping you would ask

ABYC standards:
(E-11.16.3.7), “Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit”.
"Solderless crimp on connectors shall be attached with the type of crimping tools designed for the connector used, and that will produce a connection meeting the requirements of E-11.16.3.3.” 11.16.3.8."

The reason why crimping is by far the superior method of making a good electrical connection is that a properly compressed connection (that means, the right tool, for the right size connector and the right pressure applied to the crimp) will make the wires & connector pretty much become one. Some people refer to this as a "cold weld"

This is what a proper crimp looks like if you cut it in half


Note that there are no voids in the wire grip area for either terminal. If you had a polishing tool, you would be able to see individual strands captured in the terminal wire grip barrel. The 500 microinch or so thickness of tin plating on each strand would be visible as squashed ovals traced in the copper surface. As you can see, the wires & connector become one. It eliminates all voids between wires, thus keeping any air out. This prevents corrosion, which is the #1 problem in electrical connections. Corrosion increases the resistance of the connection, which obviously is BAD.

Check out this article "This is NOT a crimper"...good information
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page7.html

This one also has a lot of good information.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles...rimptools.html

While soldering does "seal" most of the connection area, mechanically, it is a fairly weak connection, especially with all the vibrations of a car, which add to crimping being better. Another real problem with soldering and why the ABYC code recommends crimping over it is that in the case of a circuit or wire with high electrical loads, the solder can often heat up enough to soften... combine that with wires that are vibrating... you can get a loose hot live wire inside a car... that's bad. A crimped connection, done properly, isn't ever going to come apart. Another danger is the solder whicks up the inside of the wire and makes it brittle, again adding vibration into play it can create a weak connection. I used to work in a wire house and currently work for a large power electronics company building commercial and utility equipment which is designed to last 30+ years. Only solder we use is for the components on the board that we absolutely have to. Everything is a crimped connection. Hell look at what the local utility uses, I guarantee no linesman is soldering on a cherry picker.

There is a reason why all of your connectors in your car are crimped from the factory and not soldered.

If you did the big 3 please for the love of god fuse your alt to bat +. There is a moderator on this forum who doesn't use a fuse there and tells other people it doesn't matter. He is wrong. There is a reason there is a fusable link from the factory.

edit:
TLR There is 0 advantage to soldering a crimped connector, if anything it promotes failure, there is 0 advantage to soldering, as a crimped connector is better both electrically and mechanically, oh and easier and quicker to do to boot.

 

dam. I just got educated. Thanks for the info. I did fuse the positive alt to battery.

 

I am sure your connections will last 5-10 years. It just after that point they might fail. Least that is my guesstimate. I would not redo them, too much of a hassle. But I would check on them all once a year and give them a good tug/wiggle and make sure the connections are sound.

 

Ranmas, your car sucks. I hate it.


I'm jealous.

 

What is your brake setup?

 

i love the idea. which ls are you going to use? check out this 350 i ran across at a drift event, thats a titan 5.6L in there

 

Well I knew that SPEC Stage II clutch would not lat long. Started slipping a week ago at full boost..LOL. I have bought a Clutchmasters FX300 stage 3 clutch, but dont know if I should just sell it and get a FX400 6 puck sprung clutch or not. Dont want to put the FX300 in and then have to replace that in the future. Honestly VERY surprised the SPEC stage II held as long as it did...I know I have given that clutch hell at times...lol. Also going to order that VIS invader vented carbon fiber hood to let the hot engine bay temps vent off into the air instead of being trapped under the engine hood. That slipping clutch is the ONLY reason I did not get to go to the NIS shootout today!! SO PISSED!!! I head the Maryland crew cleaned up though!! CONGRATS!!! Hopefully I can make it next year! By then I will have a 3" DP, vented hood and upgraded clutch.....so I should be able to get some good runs in.

Its on page 2 of this thread.

I seen someone do a Titan 5.7L on a 350z and from what I heard it was a PITA. P;us that engine has almost NO aftermarket support. Everything has to be custom made. The LS engine fits better and has bigger displacement AND TONS AND TONS of aftermarket support. I can think of at least 2 companies that make LS swap kits for the 350z bolts right in.

Im going to get an LS2 fuel injected engine. I want a 6.0L engine from the corvette or GTO with the T56 transmission. This will be some time away...wont be anytime soon. I have to get a house first before I go dropping all this money on cars and crap. BUT when I get finished with that thing its going to be MONSTEROUS!

 

OK its almost spring 2013 and got some new goodies on the way for the MAX!!!

Tien Street Advance Coilovers with EDFC (Electronic Dampening Force Controller):



EDFC



And to go with that suspension some Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires (these replace the PS2s) upgrading from 245/40 18 to fatter 255/40 18:



Also got some red lion motor mounts for the passenger and transmission mounts:



Also might even throw in the NWP Engineering torque link too (dont want that engine moving at all):



VIS Invader Carbon Fiber Hood:



Also, tinted windows and going to get a 3" DP (from 2.5") and a 3" high flow cat and have them ceramic coated by JetHot. Also, decided to get a PTE 5858 Dual Ball Bearing Turbo with .63A/R because I want faster spool. Gonna sell the 6266. After that a retune from RT Tuning and I'm good! This should all be done within a month.

 

Next is the scary part a finished car, wtf do you do when a car is finished lol

 

Start another car.....Supercharged LSX swap 350z.

 

Been a while since I lurked in here.

Have to agree with FFmax with the whole soldering thing when dealing with wires that large. Solder isn't mechanically strong enough to really work well on big wires like that.

Although I have had better experiences with soldering vs crimping for smaller wires (16 gauge, etc). Crimping wires can get a little cumbersome when dealing with 40+ wires. Solder and heatshrink can make the job look much cleaner.

And you need to get yourself a set of radials/slicks man...I'm trying to watch this car make a solid pass at the track!

 

Yeah man I didnt know about the crimping on the wires.

I dont know about getting some radials or slicks....I'm really worried about breaking axles. We'll see I plan on tracking it after it warms up a little and then head out. I think it'll be faster than the bigger turbo I had on.

PS....you need to change that sig bro....lol.

 

yea i know its a little out of date lmao.

it brings me good memories </3

 

Tein Street Advance Coilovers are here with the EDFC kit:






Took some pics of the new EDFC and used a CD case as a reference....its pretty small.

 

You got some nice stuff in there ranmas !

 

Recognize you from another forum , sub d by the way . Been a while !

 

Took the car to the shop 3-27-13 to get all the upgrades!

This is how she looked before....



New Turbo PTE 5858 Dual Ball Bearing .64 A/R pics arrived 3-29-13:









Also got some racing motor mounts from RedLion:



VIS Invader hood came in 4-1-13:



And Hood pins.....



Thing so light you can ONE HAND IT!!



Now for the 3" DP and straightpipe to be welded so I can send everything off to JetHot for ceramic coating. Tune with RT Tuning Scheduled for April 16th!!

 

Such a sick car. Can't wait to see the area under the curve with the new setup. I'm curious how your timing curve is setup.

 

slippin I really need to make a build thread too, so is April 16th the new date

 

I can't wait either...I think it'll be alot more fun to drive in the city afterwards.

Yeah man, what up with the build thread?? Yes April 16th....9AM is the big day!

 

Think its about time for big brakes front and back

 

Javon i love your car bro and everything you have done to it because of you i will be going turbo next yr around april......this end at the end of the summer will be throwing another engine in my car with a bit of internals keep up the great work my friend

 

Already upgraded the brakes and rotors in my all motor build.

http://forums.maxima.org/8289467-post59.html

http://forums.maxima.org/8289467-post59.html

http://forums.maxima.org/8482299-post320.html



Thanks man. Lots of work and $$ in this dam car. Gonna be so much fun to drive when I get finished!

 

damn, I already have a 5.5gen bbk for my 4gen might just get those brackets and run even bigger rotors when the old ones wear down

 

Yeh man, I noticed a significant difference in braking power just from the bigger rotors and stock pads. Dont need no brembos or nothing because its enough for me.

The ONLY thing with that BBK for the front rotors is that it says its for a 2000-2003 Maxima, but I dont think they knew it was a difference in the 2000-01 Maxima front brakes and 02-03 front brakes. The 5.5Gen has bigger bolts in the brakets....but they made the BBK for the smaller bolts that the 5th gen uses. So the shop had to retap the holes for the bigger bolts on the 5.5Gen to use the brackets. I called the company and complained and told them that there are differences...they took note, but I seriously think they fixed it, especially since I have not seen ANYONE else that bought this kit so Im sure they in no rush to correct the problem since no Maxima people buying them. If it was a 350z BBK they would have fixed it.....

 

with shift max make brackets, the evo brembo calipers bolt up with his brackets will be a great addition to the max i have them but haven't installed them yet but i had a bbk on my previous max and even if i was N/A the stopping power is just great and gives me a great state of mind you will love it bro

 

Good Job on getting the right parts for the build.

How about fixing the cold side piping before you do all that new stuff..
-- I know i'm not the only one who noticed it's sitting 1/2 inch from the turbo's hot side..

^^^when turbo is fully spooled or even from back to back runs.. who are you kidding with the turbo blanket insulating all that heat from the piping..

considering all the work, parts, etc that went into this car/build.. the simplest problem is the one needs addressing first. Surprised nobody pointed that out..

then you can make the cold side piping even more efficient with a same side intercooler.. etc etc..

 

nice build man,wat else do u have in mind,is it a finish product or u think u might get a little more boost hungry.(motor build)
i think i wanna make build thread too. im tryna join the 500hp club.

 

Thanks man! Its not 1/2" away.....Its probably a good 2" away. You just looking at the pic. Its no problem...there and the turbo blanket is sufficient. We considered a same side intercooler but running the piping would have been more complicated. Already cut holes into where the radiator sits to make piping shorter to not lose my fogs and make it more efficient. And when I ceramic coat that downpipe, feedpipe and add the vented hood the heat will be a non-issue pretty much. So I have addressed the problems.

No way......man. At 8 psi the thing make 404whp and 393TQ. My boost cutoff is set to 11.5psi. In the winter I was hitting 11.5psi and Im thinking it was making about 450-460whp and probably about 440-450TQ....the thing was UNCONTROLABLE. Normally at 8psi I can roast 1st, 2nd and part of 3rd gear...mid 3rd start top get traction real good (Under FULL WOT)....before then I have to feather the throttle. BUT when it was hitting boost cut....roast 1st, 2nd ALL of 3rd and PART of 4th gear (WOT). Try feathering a throttle at 11.5PSI! I would not want to go any higher than 400whp on a FWD car, especially a Maxima, even with all the suspension mods and crap that I have its really not good at handling all that power. Anyone that has not driven a FWD Maxima with that much power will not understand. You are going to spend 1000's on an engine build to NEVER be able to put all that power down to the ground. You are either going to just light up tires (unless you have slicks) or break axles (unless you have custom made ones $$$$$ for racing). If I was going to build a VQ35DE motor it would be a RWD Z or G because of all the aftermarket support and a better platform to begin with. I mean if you just want to spend all that loot for your name in the hall of fame 500hp list then more power to you. But 350-400whp on a stock block is ALOT of fun and reliable with a good tune!

 

not looking for the hall of fame. but theirs too many z and g"s how about something different and ive seen plenty of 550 plus fwd drive cars.also to late in about 2 weeks engine will be here from machine shop fully done.
hes vid with somebody reaching that .

 

OK good then. You see that dyno graph that jumped up from 200-500TQ in just like 1000rpms.......that sucks.....you'll see. But I think it'll be a highway queen for sure.

 

[QUOTE=Max streets;8767861]not looking for the hall of fame. but theirs too many z and g"s how about something different and ive seen plenty of 550 plus fwd drive cars.also to late in about 2 weeks engine will be here from machine shop fully done.
hes vid with somebody reaching that .


Yeah - that's Hal's car... a Maxima+nitrous legend from back in the day. He used up a lot of engines using a LOT of nitrous.

 

Been awhile in here but Ranmas 2004 you said exactly what I thought and the reason why I sold my car. I wanted more power, but not in a fwd car. Once you get over the 400 whp its pretty useless, unless your on the highway.

I will say though Ranmas 2004 nice fu**ing ride, dude.

 

Thanks man. I'm considering a 2012 Mustang 5.0 6-speed with a twin turbo build. 600whp @6psi stock block all day! REAL POWER and tons of aftermarket support.

 

Here is an update:

Shop almost got the 3" Downpipe done......



They got both motor mounts on the pass and trans side done.

The Tein Coilovers were getting installed along with the EDFC



The new Michelin pilot super sport 255/40 18s are in and mounted

Here are they next to the Federal 595SS 245/40 18s...









I noticed that the Michelins have a MUCH softer and stickier compound thatn the Federals. I can't wait to try these bad boys out!!!

These are my Eibach Pro Kit springs......going to post them up for sale....



All that is left for them to do is finish the install of the Tein Coilovers and EDFC and install The VIS hood with hood pins and we are good to go!

I got a wheel alignment appointment on Thursday April 18th.

Tune has been moved to Friday April 19th 9AM at RT Tuning!

Cant wait!!!!!

 

i now how u feel.ur car is gonna be beast in early rpm,and that hood helps i have fiberglass 1 takes alot weight off the shoulders of the engine.

 

Yeah man the car is done now. Its not tuned but took it for a test drive and the thing was starting to spool at 2500rpm with out much effort. So its going to be great. Also this smaller turbo is loud and sounds like a jet engine turning on...its awesome. Cant wait for them to tune it up. I can tell its going to spool alot faster than the other turbo with my setup.

 

whoa beasty post a vid after let see that torqe.will ur numbers go down or stay the same off this smaller turbo.

 

Put in some home time work on the max today....wrapped the 3" Downpipe and also wrapped the feedpipe but it was still on the car....what a PITA!! Also put turbo blanket on.

3" Downpipe before:



AFTER:



Feedpipe before:



AFTER (wrapped all the way back to the ypipe):



More shots:





BLUE WRAP BEFORE....



I used heatshield inferno wrap. Said its good for 2000 degrees continuous and 30000 degrees peak. Stuff is gonna be awesome! I used 2-50' rolls. Let them both soak in water before I applied the wrap. It was fairly easy.

Tomorrow going to attempt to install these hood pins and also change the oil and get a fresh batch in there.