Car got new tires put on at the tire place. Three were replaced but the rear left side wasn't replaced because three of the five lug nuts on the tire were corroded and broke in half when they attempted to remove them. Now they are saying the only way they can get the lugs off is by using a setaline torch which will destroy the rim. The rims are crappy american racing casino rims, so I wouldn't mind getting rid of them, however, by only other choice are to go back to my factory GLE 17s. Which is ok, but the low pro tires will run me another $250. They feeding me a line with the setaline torch bit, or is that the standard practice for removing stuck, broken off lugs? Also the lugs are recessed down in a hole on the rim so coming at the lugs from above isn't an option.

 

I had these 3 tuner lugs stuck on my left rear wheel and i had to get them torched off $15 each which wasnt bad price at all.(Motegi MR7 didnt get messed up just burnt marks) Other mechanic shops would prefer gettin it gettin it drilled out (cheapest est price was $50 a stud). Now i'm having problems with my front rim (nuts is stripped and so is the stud and the stud is spinnin from the back, hard to explain). I'ma be torching the back end of the studs and hammering the studs from the back. Its pretty hard to explain but pm me if you got any questions.

 

drilling the studs from the back sounds like the best idea, anyways your lug bolts and nuts are rusted. plus hub bolts and nuts arent expensive and if you have a power drill im sure the bit they do it with isnt all that expensive either. and you could throw some torch back there before drilling to weaken the bolt. good luck guys

 

I'm replying to an old thread, but I'm hoping that there is someone out there still reading this stuff....

I have three broken studs (hub bolts) on my daughter's 2002 Maxima (5th gen). I thought that I could easily remove the hub and hammer out the bolts. After reading other threads about removing the wheel hub, I think it might be easier to get a PhD in String Theory Physics or worse, try to understand the value of bitcoin. LOL

Per the attached drawing from the service manual, can I simply rotate the wheel hub until the hub bolts (RED ARROW) align with the opening on the knuckle (BLUE Arrow) and hammer the bolts out towards the drive shaft?

Is there enough clearance on the knuckle to allow the hub bolts to be removed this way? If so...

1) Do I put the transmission in NEUTRAL to rotate the hub into position, then put the transmission back into PARK to lock the hub while I hammer?
2) Is there anything more specific (other than disconnecting & moving the brake caliper and ABS sensor) that I need to know about, beware, do, or avoid when doing this procedure?

 

You only need to remove the wheel, caliper/pads, and rotor. Put the car in neutral and spin the hub for maximum clearance. The new stud/bolt can be pressed in with a spacer and a lug nut or get a specific tool like the Lisle stud installer 22800. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...stud-installer

 

Like Sutter, and the others, are eluding to, this isn’t science, it’s violence … specifically targeted violence however.

Here’s an old thread re: this very issue.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...oke-1-off.html

 

Yup, it's pretty simple, I recently replaced all of mine with a big hammer and the Lisle tool JSutter posted. There's no need to remove the hub from the car.

 

https://www.z1motorsports.com/tools-...1f1fa4a85d46c1
another tool from z1