Nice '60, I just purchased a set of those 225 45 17 , So you don't use them on the street, Why?

I plan on using them on the street, and the track this being my first DR's I have no Idea what to expect.

I also have a pair of slicks people tell me for right now I'm not pushing a whole lot of power for them to actually help on times. The g-Force T/AŽ Drag Radials would do just fine for my N/A setup.
Do you guys agree..?

 

NOT AT ALL! You need slicks! I am spinning my drag radials right now and I'm pushing much less power than you. I can only do a 2.08 on my DRs after heating them up properly. With slicks, I will be able to launch without a single chirp of the tires. That is what you want. I already have my 22" slicks mounted and ready.

 

Nice Max! Makes me nostalgic for my '92. I found that revving up to 1500 RPM worked best. Rather than punching it immediately when pulling your left foot off the pedal, wait a split second after the car launches off the pad...then punch it. You'll get less wheel spin.

 

UPDATE:

Tires: Yokohama 215/60/15 All-season mounted on Stock 15" Sawblades.
Condition: Good.
Best 60 foot: 2.022

M&H 23X8.5X15 slicks mounted on sawblades.
Best 60 foot: 1.759

Notes: 5-speed VQ35-powered 4th gen.

 

Feel free to go the slicks route, but I am going to stick with my DR's. I can consistenly get sub 2.0 second 60 foots with my current setup. The reason I do not run them on the street is because I run a 18x8 MM Evo 5. For the street, I have those for looks. They won't cut it for the track though. My next run to the track I will try out 12.5 psi and see it if helps any.

My launches generally run from 2500-3000 rpm, and letting out clutch in a controlled manner, only giving tires on launch a light chirp. That varies little from my launch technique on street tires. It is all about the clutch slip for me. I have gotten a best of a 2.105 sixty on worn stock Potenzas and stock 17's.

Once I break the 250 fwhp, then I may trade up to slicks.

 

So on the 225-45-17 BFG G-force DRS, are you doing a big burnout?

I heard well from past experience on the comp t/a drag radials on my supra that if I did a good 5-7 sec burnout and kept them right at 16psi they pulled consistent 1.7 60fts, is this the same turnout on these tiny slicks ?

I think my car is pushing right around 215-220fwhp.

And what motor mounts are you folks running?

vnt

 

Just a quick burnout, nothing 'top fuel'.

I am running the Energy Suspension MM's.

 

update:

Tire Used: Hoosier Drag Radials:
Condition/Wear: New
Tire Size: 225/50/16 (15.5 psi)
Best 60: 1.97
Rims: SSR Competitions 16 x 7.5

edit: same here on the track i got the 1.97 60 foot the elevation is lame, so i didnt beat my pb hit a 14.0 but the correction factor is something like .18 or .2. On another note its hard to break old habits, im still not launching at high enough revs i dont think, got to hammer that into my head. my best et is 13.97 on the toyo proxes coming from a 2.15 60 foot. its tough over here thats for sure. i need a good track !

post 49 below: my trap speeds where the same on the same track mentioned above with the proxes t1r and hoosiers 96 mph which is also 2-3mph slower from some of my best this year. i used to read about guys racing on tracks with a high elevation but never thought anything about it, but now i can say it stinks ! i have trapped 99.5mph with the toyo proxes t1r and also trapped 99.5mph with the hoosiers at around 15.5 psi.

 

Did any of you folks see a decrease in mph due to the smaller tire diameter?

vnt

 

Somewhat, but I made up for it in kick but ET's with a good 60 foot.

 

What was your et and/or what are you mods?

vnt

 

I've never seen a decrease in MPH when running slicks except when I drop the pressure on purpose below 11psi. I usually end up right at 11.5 or 12psi on slicks. One night I was getting so many runs in, and no chance for a personal best due to the hot summer weather, I decided to just see what would happen to my trap speeds if I dropped the pressure lower than normal, below 11psi I did start to lose some trap.

I've never used slicks shorter than stock tires though, always 26" for me on both my maximas. My highest trapspeeds have always been on my slicks.

 

2.18 w/ variation on OSCAI air mod

 

Update:

Tire Used: 14 lb Mickey Thompson ET Drags (Slicks)
Condition/Wear: Slightly Used
Tire Size: 22x8x15 (25 psi)
Best 60: 1.99
Rims: 11lb 15x6 Mazda Millenia wheels

That was on my 13.79 @ 100.34 mph 1/4 mile run. That night, I had several 1.99x 60 foots and I think one 2.00x 60 foot. And my traps were in the 100.x range all night.

25psi is a lot for these slicks. I was only barely able to chirp them on a couple runs after a little burnout. You want to run as much pressure as traction allows. I have no reason to drop the pressure below 20psi right now with the small amount of power I'm running.

My trap speeds don't suffer with these small tires b/c of my gearing. I need shorter gearing to get me revving more in the top of 3rd when I go through the traps. But for other cars, it can hurt traps I guess. It all depends on the gearing and the car.

 

are they quite harsh, as far as vibration?

vnt

 

I noticed absolutely no difference after installing my ES motor mounts. I would say there is no downside to that particular mod.

 

So your telling me you didn't feel a diff in vibration at all? How bout the rest of you guys?

vnt

 

No, I didn't. My turbo car (with the ES mounts) doesn't vibrate any more than my other two maximas that don't have ES mounts. They are really good.

 

I have all 4 of my mounts filled with Devcon Flexane 94 and it doesn't vibrate. Wish I had of done it a long ago.

 

I have a definite vibration with the ES motor mounts. I had a friend with an identical 2k2 6spd parked right beside mine idling. You can feel alot more vibration in mine. Past 1k though, it smooths out and you can't feel it any longer.

The vibration is bad enough at idle that my Bose 6 disc in dash has a hard time playing without skipping. Just a note, I am also running the ES subframe bushings.

 

That is interesting as I also have a very noticeable vibration at idle which disappears by 1K. I have the ES subframe bushings and MM inserts.

I installed the bushings/mounts the same time as I did my engine swap so I wasn;t sure which one was the culprit. I was leaning towards my flywheel as I had to have some welding and machining done on it. I sent it to a shop to be balanced and thought it was possible that they may have screwed it up.

I am going to swap the stock subframe bushings back in and see if that cures the problem.

 

TYRES: 235 / 45 ZR17 Bridgestone Potenza GIII

RIMS: 17 x 8 Advanti Racing Photon Magnesium Alloy

BEST 60ft: 2.396s

 

Hey,

Did you ever run it on the drag radials prior to the ES MMs? And if so what was the outcome?

vnt

 

Over in another thread in the 4th Gen forum, entitled, "What would you do if you won the lottery," a lot of members talked about doing a 3.5L swap.

So, I was wondering how much the how change-over cost, and what 4th Gen parts did you have toi change besides the engine and tranny?

Also, what was your best time on your 3.0L?

Thanks!

 

I do not think I ever ran with the drag radials prior to installing the ES MM's.

 

3.5 swap can be done for 1100-1200$. I only ran stock and went 15.00@92 with the 3.0.

 

I appreciate your input. I am really interested in doing the swap also. I take it that you kept your existing tranny, but what else did you keep from your old engine? Sorry for asking so many questions -- maybe you could respond to me via PM instead

I'd like to know what came with the 3.5L at that price? Did you use its ECU as-is, or did you have to get it reprogrammed? Also, when you talk about that price, I am assuming that it was a DIY job, right? For the mechanically-challenged, how much should I expect to pay a mechanic to do it?

Thanks, in advance!