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New PB again!! 13.13@104.41, 1.87 60 foot (N/A 3L)

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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 01:13 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by JClaw
3-Very tall and narrow tires for the rear, you can fit something like 27" in the wheel wheels. Narrow=little rolling resistance. That would biase the weight distribution towards the front and the car would have to fight to transfer the weight to the back. Something ridiculous like 185/75/15. Track only of course.
Metzeler Motorcycle tires can weigh as light as 9lbs each. The contact patch is almost nonexistant too. I've made several passes with mine mounted on 16x4 RX7 spare tire wheels and they hold up great. My rear tires weigh 20 lbs each.



And I'm not even exceeding the tire's load rating capabilities. I'm close, but not over.

DandyMax, you just keep raising the bar! Makes me want to see if I can beat my own records. But the weather is too hot here. I'll probably have to wait until Nov to get the temps I need. Keep it up!
Old Jun 14, 2006 | 09:05 AM
  #42  
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Wow, another great set of runs and thread!! Keep up the excellent work dandymax, I can't wait to see 12's for ya! I still remember when Sr20 hit 12's with the 3.5, and IIRC no body thought that a 3.0 would touch that N/A. Awesome job, and can't wait to see more!
Old Jun 14, 2006 | 06:25 PM
  #43  
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Wow what a discourse! lol. But thanks for the suggestions. I cannot afford to do much more that requires money this year. So that really limits what I can do at this point... and I still have a couple hundred yet to spend on the dyno.

Originally Posted by JClaw
If you pull out some weight you might make up the tq difference. Plus, a lighter car is easier on the drivetrain.
The car is already significantly lighter than last year

Originally Posted by JClaw
Hell I I never trapped higher than 103 on slicks so either your car is lighter or it has more top end than I had.
Probably both at this point..

Originally Posted by JClaw
2-4.47 final drive with 26" slicks to counter gearing a little. A taller tire and sidewall with more aggressive gearing is much better than a smaller tire with less aggressive gearing. And it allows you to use almost all of 4th gear effectively. A 26X10 slick on the right wheel hooks MUCH harder than the 23X8.5 on 6.5" sawblades I had when I pulled the 1.75. That's potential for ya...
Don't really want to pull the tranny or clutch at this point but if I end up having to I will evaluate further...

Originally Posted by JClaw
3-Very tall and narrow tires for the rear, you can fit something like 27" in the wheel wheels. Narrow=little rolling resistance. That would biase the weight distribution towards the front and the car would have to fight to transfer the weight to the back. Something ridiculous like 185/75/15. Track only of course.
IIRC by back tires are already 195/65/15 or something like that. I may look into RX-7 spares and used Metzelers as per Aaron's suggestions but only if I can get them dirt cheap. I doubt my rolling resistence in the rear is much of a factor at this point, although I could potentially lose 14 static lbs total there if his weigh 20 per side (my back wheels weigh 27 a piece right now).

Originally Posted by JClaw
4-Now this one is real hardcore but sitting the engine and trans lower would lower the center of gravity, which helps keep the weight on the front wheels during acceleration. RWD guys sometimes do the opposite for weight transfer, and pro stock guys who want to keep their front wheels on the ground sit their engine very low. Makes sense. Look at the hardest hooking FWD cars (GTP Grand Prixs and SRT-4), they either have long wheelbases, weight bias towards the front and their sittings sitting surprisingly low in their engine bays...
I probably won't bother with this now, but perhaps when the 3.5 goes in, IF I stay N/A with it. I can still jack the rear end up some or make it solid too.

Originally Posted by JClaw
5-WIDE front wheels. I can't stress this one enough. 26X10 slicks on 15X10 wheels with rim screws are enough to pull a 1.6 60' in a FWD car. The SRT-4 guys do it all the time.
Again, money issue and what about the extra rotational mass of the wheel? But if I could fit a 10" slick on the 7" rims I have now... haha...

Originally Posted by JClaw
6-200 lbs of weight reduction
Already taken care of...

Originally Posted by JClaw
7-And upgraded axles
Don't see the need at this point unless I break them. (Back to the $$ again also)

Originally Posted by JClaw
Anyway I'll just throw in the fact that FWD drag racers are extremely persistant to try to hook with small slicks. I was guilty of that one too. I see 22 and 23-inch slicks all the time on FWD cars running 11's and 12's. What do mustang and f-body guys use running high 12's? 26's at the very least. A car trapping 105-110 mph should be using 26" slicks. Yeah, they're RWD solid axle, but tire sizing is the most important part of the equation. You want as many chances on your side as possible... If Neal or Mardi could fit 28-inch slicks on the front of their cars I'm sure they would lol...

On a good track I'd say 1.65-1.70's wouldn't be a problem with the new gearing. That is getting out of the hole ridiculously hard.
Will keep it in mind. I am currently running better 60 foots than a few F-bodies I know that run high 12's on 1.9x sixty foots with 26" slicks. lol. But that could just be them not getting the potential out of their car... haha
Old Jun 14, 2006 | 06:39 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by VQ20
May i ask what are your modifications to achieve that seeing that u are NA???. I am considering a set up that would allow me to achieve 13 sec class car with either a VQ30 Or 35.

Off the top of my head the main things are:

00VI swap
i/h/y/test/catback
UDP
low temp T-stat
Emanage Ultimate
weight reduction
KSport coilovers
belts: alternator only

Think that's most of it...
Old Jun 14, 2006 | 07:41 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by DandyMax
Will keep it in mind. I am currently running better 60 foots than a few F-bodies I know that run high 12's on 1.9x sixty foots with 26" slicks. lol. But that could just be them not getting the potential out of their car... haha
Those dudes suck. Guys that can drive can cut 1.9s and even 1.8s on stock tires. A slicked up F-body should be cutting 1.6s at a minimum, 1.5s with a nice stall in an A4 or a good driver in a 6M, my buddy john cuts 1.5s like it's his job in his 6M with boltons.
Old Jun 14, 2006 | 08:21 PM
  #46  
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What's his (John's) race weight though? I think most of the ones I know are too heavy.. like 3800 lbs raceweight but yeah I've always thought their sixties could be better.

What's your opinion on my using 26" slicks.. considering I'm already staying in 3rd and not using 4th...? I should run that through my computer sims and see...
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